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33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


® 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibiiographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


Q 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couvorture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagio 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le 


titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  init  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relit  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  p«ut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  AtA  filmAes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppltmentaires; 


L'Instltut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6tA  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sent  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reprodulte,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mtthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqute  ci-dessous. 


r~n   Coloured  pages/ 


D 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmt  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  djmaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 


□   Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurtes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

0    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6co!or6es,  tachettes  ou  piqui 


Pages  d6co!or6es,  tachettes  ou  piquies 

Pages 

Pages  ditachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prin 

QualitA  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppltmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I      I  Pages  detached/ 

rri  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I      I  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  i  tage/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t^  fiimAes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  h 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 

lex 

aox 

24X 

28X 

32X 

I 

■ 

The  copy  filmed  here  hes  been  reproduced  thenks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Blbiiothique  nstionale  du  Quebec 


L'exempiaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAnirosIt*  de: 

BIbliothdque  nationa'a  du  Quebec 


The  Images  appeering  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  iteeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Las  images  suivantes  ont  AtA  reprodultes  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  I'exemplelre  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fllmege. 


Original  copies  In  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  bacic  cover  when  appropriate.  Ail 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  Illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplalres  orlginaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  Imprimte  sent  flimts  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impresslon  ou  d'lllustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplalres 
orlglnsux  sent  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premldre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impresslon  ou  d'lllustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  lest  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meening  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meening  "END"), 
whichever  epplles. 


Un  des  symboles  sulvants  apparaltra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
ces:  le  symbols  — ►  signlfie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  V  signlfie  "FIN". 


Meps,  pletes,  charts,  etc.,  mey  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  retios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  In  the  upper  left  hend  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  msny  frames  as 
rsquired.  The  following  diagrams  illustrats  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableeux,  etc.,  peuvent  fttre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  rMuctlon  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArleur  geuche,  de  geuche  A  droite, 
et  de  heut  en  bes,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
lllustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

H 


Yal 


1 


Ausable  Chasm,  looking  up  stream  from  Table  Rook. 


It. 


A 


DESCRIPTIVE 


AND 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE 


TO     THE 


Yalley  of  Lake  Cliamplain 


AND 


THE  ADIROOACKS. 


•••  •  •  •• 

•  •  •  •  •• * 

•  •  •  •  •  •  • 


•  •      » « 


•  •  •  •  • 


•  ••«•••  • 
•  •  < 


t  ft   •  •  • 


JUKLIXGTON,     VT.: 
1{.     S.     STYLES'    STEAM    PRIXTIXU    HOUSE. 

isri. 


«  -ili 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Cor.grc..,  in  tlio  year  187J. 

By  ANDuan-  WiLLiAjis,  Plattsburgh,  N.  Y., 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


•    1  •    • 

'  ■>  »    •  •    • 

•  ■<    •  ••  ' 

•••    •  •  •••• 


•  •• •  •  ,•• 

•  •    *  ■>  ,    • 

•  ••• •   ••• 


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p  •       •    *      • 

•  •    •  .«•  • 


•  •  •  «      •  • 


•  •  • 


•  •  •  •    •  •  • 

•  •  *  •         * 


.1 


^ 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


I  } 


I 


Tiu!  Puhlij^luT.  in  issuing;  tliis  volti;iv%  indi.ilLrcs  in  a  C()niicl<'nco  iliat. 
he  is  siii)i)lyinL'-!i  want  nnivorsally  felt  by  tlie  travcllin;;  i)u1)lic.  Most 
of  the  hool<s  which  have  appoarotl.  purporting  to  bo  "  Guides''  to  tiie 
territory  attoinptod  to  be  described  in  the  following,'  paLCOS.  liave  scarcely 
possopsed  a  hisrhcr  ciiaractor  than  is  formed  by  a  bald  cara]o_'ue  of 
narce'^  and  distances,  and  those  often  inaccurately  stated,  Avitii  vat;ne 
and  unsatisfactory  j^lances  at  objcjcts  of  Iiistorical  or  traditional  interest. 

The  plan  of  the  work  now  ofTered  to  the  i)ublic.  is  clearly  indicated 
bv  its  title.  "  A  d:-crii)tivo  and  Historical  Guide  to  the  Valley  of  Lake 
Chainidain  and  the  Adirondacks."'  The  author  has  devoted  tiie  ;no«f 
earefal  study  and  laborious  rc'^eairhes  to  ac<'oniplish  tin-  i;b  a.  and 
with  what  Fucrcss  the  reader  must  deterniini". 

The  work  will  be  found,  the  publisher  Ik  lieves.  to  cDibruic  a:i 
aui])le,  though  compressed  account  of  all  the  thrillinu-  eveiits  which 
have  rendered  Lake  Ge<>r!»e  and  Champlain  po  illiistrior.s.  Tiie  tourist, 
traviMv-in^'  these  waters,  witii  this  volume  in  his  hand,  will  readiV 
identify  every  locality,  and  bo  able  to  tra<'0  the  scenes  of  all  the-i' 
memorable  incidents.  Every  spot  associated  with  tb.o  ri'col!e<  lion  1 
other  times,  or  attractive  by  jjoi^iiionor  natural  beauty,  is  miu'iteiy 
described.  The  routes  of  the  >teanier<  upon  these  lake-,  ami  tiie  lines 
of  railroads  from  Whitehall  to  Kutland.  and  thenco  to  l]urlin'_^ton.  Sr. 
Allian?  and  0;j:densburgh.  are  pursued  in  an  im:)t;inary  tour,  whi'.-ii  is 
illustrated  by  a  full  description  of  the  country,  its  villa;'es,  oiij,  •!<  of 
attraction  and  physical  geoirraphy  :  lateral  points  of  interest,  acce-ibie 
from  the  roads— as  Tiako  Dunmore.  Camel's  Hump  and  ^It.  Man--iield, 
and  the  mineral  si)rin^'s  of  N'ermontand  Alas-eua  are  specially  nmiced. 
Numerous  important  localities,  to  those  in  pursuit  of  pleasure  or 
investi-ration,  on  IheO^'densburjj:!!  road,  wliieli  have  hitiierto  scarcely 
lieon  alluded  to,  are  carefully  pointed  out. 

A  larirepart  of  tlie  volume  is  devoted  to  an  neeonnt  of  the  wonderful 
district  embraced  in  the  "Northern  Wilderness."  and  enveloped  by  the 
Adirondacks;  the  huge  mountains,  the  rivers,  the  beautiful  lakes,  the 
sylvan  pond-,  the  pporting  grounds,  are  all  minutely  descrilied ;  the 
world  famed  An  Sable  Ciiusm,  the  Indian  and  Hunter's  Pa«s,  Wilming- 
ton Notch,  and  every  other  of  the  extraordinary  natural  plunouK'na, 
nre  portrayed,  and  in  most  casew  from  personal  (.bservations. 


37327 


!▼ 


The  various  avenues  to  the  Wilderness  are  explained  with  precision, 
and  impartially,  in  order  to  enable  the  visitor  to  select  his  own  route, 
guided  by  reliable  information,  satisfactorily.  The  distances  of  places, 
both  on  the  lakes  and  railroads  arc  accurately  stated.  It  is  the  aim  of 
the  volume  to  present  the  ftuilities  atlbrded  by  every  route  of  travel, 
and  to  furnish  the  traveller  with  a  directory  of  the  names  and 
location  of  all  the  prominent  hotels,  taverns,  boarding  houses  and  other 
resorts,  in  every  section  embraced  in  the  scope  of  the  work. 

In  a  word,  the  publisher  announces  a  "Guide  Hook,"  which  is  calcu- 
lated to  interest  the  student  of  history,  and  to  illustrate  to  every  intel- 
ligent tourist  ore  of  the  most  attractive  districts  of  the  country,  equally 
in  its  reminiscences,  and  in  its  physical  grandeur  and  lovi-liness  ;  that 
will  direct  him  in  the  pursuit  of  these  unsurpassed  natural  beauties, 
and  to  pgintout  the  localities  which  will  best  administer  to  his  comfort 
and  amusement.  The  numerous  illustrations  presented  in  the  volua»e 
will  larj.'-ely  enhance  its  value  and  interest  to  the  tourist,  while  the 
cost  of  the  maps  it  contains,  by  separate  i)urchase,  would  b(!  e<jual  to 
tlie  price  of  the  work. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  care  and  labor  which  has  been  exercised, 
the  publisher  cannot  hope  that  the  work  has  wholly  escaped  errors  or 
omissions  ;  he  will  gratefully  receive  any  advice  of  such  blemishes,  and 
gives  an  assurance  that  they  siuill  be  corrected  in  a  subsequent  edition. 
lie  ventures  to  call  the  attention  of  the  public  to  the  important  adver- 
tisements in  the  appendi.v. 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


Although  the  scope  indicated  by  the  title  we  have 
adopted,  does  not  distinctly  embrace  the  environs  of 
this  beantiful  lake,  it  is  too  intimately  associated 
with  the  Champlain  Valley,  both  by  geographical 
relations  and  historical  recollections,  to  jnstify  its 
omission.  The  tourist  has  from  an  early  period 
been  attracted  to  tlie  n^gion,  by  the  ex([uisite  and 
varied  beauty  of  its  scenery,  and  its  stern  and  solemn 
grandeur;  by  its  traditions  and  history,  and  the 
pathos  shed  around  it  by  poetic  genius.  The  lake 
was  distinguished  in  the  varied  Indian  dialects  by 
dilferent  names.  The  Iroquois  called  it  Andiatar- 
octe,  "the  lake  that  shuts  itself  in'':  bv  other 
Tribes  it  was  named,  Canidere-oit,  "the  tail  of  the 
lake."  Faiher  Jaques,  traversing  it  in  KUO,  during 
the  festival  of  Corpus  Cliristi,  designated  it  St. 
►Sacrament,  or  the  lake  of  the  l^lessed  Sacrament. 
Sir  William  Johnson,  in  1755,  with  the  inspiration 
of  lovaltv,  rather  than  the  suiifo^estion  of  taste,  rave 
it  the  still  recognized  "name  of  Lak.-  George. 
Horicon,  although  redolent  with  beauv  and  a 
name  most  approi)riate  and  desirable,  seems  to  be  a 
pure  poetical  fancy. 

Lake  Geora'e  is  thirtv-six  miles  long  and  from 
one  to  three  wide.  Along  almost  its  whole  course 
it  is  enclosed  by  a  dark  frame  work  of  mountain  bar- 
riers. This  sierra  frequently  shuts  in  the  waters  by 
nearly  vertical  Avails,  occasionally  projecting  lofty 
promontories  and  acute  points  into  the  lake,  and 
now  embracing  little  glens  slumbering  along  the 
shores.  The  peaks  are  not  high,  but  broken,  and 
present  a  wild  and  continuous  undulation  like  the 
waves  of  a  heaving  ocean.  Innumerable  islands, 
varied  in  form  and  aspect'geni  the  surface  and  relieve 


■Sk..\^*'^ 


6 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


the  monotony  of  the  scene.  The  water  is  deep  and 
singularly  pure  and  transparent.  Fish  gamboling 
in  its  depths,  and  shining  particles  on  the  gravelly 
bottom,  may  be  discerned  many  feet  beneath  the 
surface.  Whv'u  the  traveller  contemplates  the  pro- 
found seclusion  and  tlie  calm  repose  that  now  rest 
upon  the  lake,  he  can  scarcely  conceive  that  its  deep 
trancjuility  has  ever  been  broken  by  the  fierce  pas- 
sions of  war;  and  yet  almost  every  section  of  its 
shores  has  been  rendered  memorable  by  some  impor- 
tant or  thrilling  military  event.  Its  nearly  inacces- 
sible mountain  ramparts,  in  another  age,  were  tra- 
versed by  armed  legions  and  hordes  of  savage  war- 
riors, wliile  in  summer  its  clear  waters  wafted  the 
Indian  war  canoe,  and  vast  naval  flotillas  of  civili- 
zed nations,  and  in  the  season  of  frosts  its  icy  sur- 
face formed  a  secure  and  ready  avenue  for  the 
march  of  armies.  In  March,  175G,  Vaudruil,  avail-  ^^^  AvUhII 
ing  himself  of  this  extraordinary  pathway,  marched 
with  one  thousand  five  hundred  men  from  Ticon- 
deroga  on  snow  shoes,  with  the  design  of  surpris- 
ing Fort  William  Henry,  but  foiled  by  the  vigilance 
and  skill  of  John  Stark,  the  future  conqueror  of 
Bennington,  he  retreated  upon  the  ice.  The  reflec- 
tion of  a  brilliant  vernal  sun  from  the  dazzling 
snow  caused  a  temporary  blindness  in  a  large  part  of 
the  troops,  Avho  in  this  helpless  condition  could 
pursue  their  march  only  by  the  aid  of  their 
comrades. 

Passing  over  many  unimportant,  although  thril- 
ling incidents,  we  propose  to  limit  our  narrative  to 
a  brief  notice  of  a  few  events,  the  magnitude  and 
results  of  which  have  imparted  to  the  region  a  deep 
and  enduring  interest.  In  the  summer  of  175o, 
Gen.  Johnson  reached  the  head  of  Lake  George  with 
about   three    thousand  four    hundred    Provincial 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


Ma. 


>^\tMjj 


troops,  tlie  advance  of  an  army  designed  for  an 
attack  of  tlie  Frencli  forts  on  Lake  Champlain. 
Baron  Dieskau,  a  German  oflBcer  of  high  distinc- 
tion, in  the  service  of  France,  on  the  4th  of  Septem- 
ber proceeded  from  Ticonderoga  witli  a  force  com- 
posed of  six  hundred  Canadians,  six  hundred  In- 
dians and  tliree  hundred  regularp,  in  bateaux,  up 
Wood  Creek,  and  traversing  the  spacious,  but  shal- 
low waters  of  KSouth  Bay,  left  liis  boats  at  its  head, 
penetrated  through  a  wilderness  of  rocks,  morasses 
and  forests,  often  crossing  streams  in  Indian  file 
upon  a  log,  with  the  purpose  of  occupying  John- 
son's communications,  by  the  capture  of  Fort 
Edward.  On  reaching  the  military  road,  which 
Johnson  had  constructed,  he  discoverd  that  his 
guides,  either  in  ignorance  or  treachery,  had  wan- 
dered from  tlie  intended  course,  and  that  he  was 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  camp  of  Johnson.  His 
inconstant  red  allies  now  refused  to  proceed  to  the 
attack  of  Fort  Edward,  but  professed  a  desire  to 
assail  the  British  camp.  While  Dieskau  Avas  pre- 
paring to  indulge  this  caprice,  he  was  informed  of 
the  near  approach  of  a  detachment  of  the  English. 
Johnson  heard  of  the  advance  of  the  Frencli  with 
equal  surprise  and  alarm  for  the  safety  of  the  feeble 
garrison  and  all  important  supplies  at  Fort  Edward. 
He  immediately  ordered  Col.  Ephraim  AVilliams,  the 
founder  of  Williams'  College,  to  march  with  one 
thousand  men,  supported  by  Hendrick,  the  venera- 
ble Mohawk  Sachem,  with  two  hundred  savages,  to 
the  relief  oi  the  fort.  Williams  was  a  brave  but 
inexperienced  leader.  Hendrick  was  remarkable  for 
his  military  qualities  and  his  surpassing  savage  elo- 
quence. Dieskau,  with  promptitude  and  skill,  had 
arranged  an  ambush  shrouded  by  rocks  and  bushes 
on  either  side  of  the  road.    The  Provincials  entered 


8 


LAKE      OEOUGE. 


V 


into  this  vallov  of  deiitli,  and  tlii'ir  destruction 
{ippi'iired  inevitiibli*,  when  some  Seneeii  Indiana, 
livinf^  in  Canada,  arose  from  their  covert,  and  dis- 
cerning: I'roni  their  em])lems  the  presence  of  the 
Mohawks,  ilred  in  tlie  air,  and  tlins  by  an  unpreme- 
ditated treach<jj'y  revi-aled  tlie  ambush.  Their  fra- 
ternal affeetion  towards  a  l)and  of  tlie  Irocpiois,  was 
superior  to  tlieir  fealty  to  France.  A  tierce  conflict 
ensued.  Tradition  has  niarlad  the  rock,  now  the 
base  of  his  monument,  M'here  earlv  in   the  action 


Willi 


lell.      The    h 


llendrick 


dj 


illiams  ie(l.j      J  lie    lieroic    ilentlncK    was   slam 
■  about   tlie  same  time  by  the  thrush  of  a  bayonet. 
The  detachment  lied  in  disorder,   but  were  rallied 
by  ('(»1.   Wiiitinir,  near  a  small  ])ool,and  the  le.ovnd 
runs,  that  tlie  dead   who   fell  in  the  second   light 
were  cast  into  its  waters,  and  gave  to  it,  the  name  of 
Bloody  Pond.       It  was  the  purpose  of  iJieskau  to 
rai)idly  follow  the  fugitives  and  ]>recipitate  himself 
upon   the  camp  of  Johnson.     The  desigi|^  which 
would  have  achieved  a  brilliant  victorv,  was  delaved 
by  the  hesitancy  of  the  Indians,   aud   the   sullen 
insubordination  of  the  Canadians.     This  incidenf 
gave  to  the  Provincials  the  necessary  time  to  con- 
struct a  rude  breastwork  formed  bvJheir  wagons 
ami  I'allen  trees.     Dioskau,  with  his  veterans,  cour- 
ageously advanced  to  the  assault.    The  severest  and 
most  l)loody  battle  folh)Wed,  that  the  wilds  of  the 
new  world  had  ever  witnessed.     Dieskau,  a  third 
and  fourtii  time,  hurled  his  devoted  Frenchmen  upon 
the  imi)enetral)le  works.     The  enthusiastic  l^rovin- 
cials,  at  length,  leaping   over  the  entrenchments, 
opposed  their  reversed  hunting  guns  to  the  glitter- 
ing bayonets.     Dieskau,  thrice  wounded,  was  taken 
prisoner,  and  the   fragments   of  his  army,  totally 
overwhelmed,  fled  to  the  forest  and  morasses.    A 
party  of  three  hundred,  pausing  for  a  brief  rest, 


0 


© 


o 


LAKE      (JEORGE. 


9 


0 


O 


were  surprised  l)y  a  small  (U'taclnnoiit  of  Provincials 
ami  attain  routed  and  disix^rscd.  Johnson  was 
wounded  early  in  the  severe  hattle,  which  was  won 
by  the  valor  of  tlie  troops,  guided  i)y  the  intrepidity 
and  skill  of  Lyman  of  Massachusetts.  With  a  sin- 
gular absence  ot  magnanimity,  tiie  name  of  Lyman 
did  not*  appear  in  th.c  oflicial  rejiort.  To  himself, 
Johnson  arrofjated  the  ijlorv  of  the  fjreat  victorv, 
and  the  roval  acknowlcdi'ment  he  received,  was  a 
Baronetcy  with  a  grant  of  t'5,00u.  The  French  • 
sustained  a  loss  of  nearlv  five  hundred  men,  and  the 
Provincials  and  Mohawks  one  hundred  l"ss.  Amer- 
icans will  always  view  tiie  scene  of  the  victory  with 
no  ordinary  emotion,  for  on  this  field  the  yeomanry 
of  thf  colonies,  led  l>v  their  own  citizens,  lirst  met 
and  vanquished  the  trained  legions  of  Europe. 
Dieskau,  l»leeding  and  faint,  was  home  to  the  tent  of 
Johnson  and  his  wants  tenderly  supplied,  when  a 
number  of  Mohawks,  exasperated  by  the  death  of 
Ilendrick,  burst  into  it  and  claimed  the  prisoner, 
that  by  his  sacrifice  at  the  stake,  they  might  expi- 
ate the  blood  of  their  beloved  Sachem.  The  firm- 
ness and  influence  of  Johnson  could  scarcelv  avert 
the  frightful  fate.  This  decisive  success,  besides 
the  repnlsc  of  the  French  invasion,  yielded  no 
results  to  the  colonies,  except  the  erection,  nearly 
on  the  site  of  the  entrenched  camp,  of  Fort  Wil- 
liam Henry,  destined  to  a  sad  and  bloody  }»re- 
eminence. 

Thp  succeeding  two  years  impressed  upon  the 
environs  of  Lake  George,  traditions  of  the  daring 
exploits  and  reciprocal  massacres  of  the  Rangers 
nnder  Rogers  and  Putnam,  and  the  French  parti- 
zans  led  by  Marin,  the  legendary  Molong,  bnt 
was  signalized  by  no  prominent  event.  In  the 
autumn  of  1757,  a  party  of  three  hundred  and  fifty 


10 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


provincals  under  Col.  Parker,  was  attacked  by  a 
band  of  Ottawas,  led  by  the  partizan  Corbiere,  at 
Sabbath  Day  Point.  Two  boats,  bearing  fifty  men, 
alone  escaped  from  the  carnage. 

Montcalm  now  appeared  in  the  scenes  ot  a 
momentous  and  sanguinary  drama,  in  which  he 
was  to  perform  so  conspicuous  a  role.  Of  high  birth, 
an  able  soldier,  and  accomplished  scholar,  he  was 
one  of  the  commanding  characters  of  an  age,  proli- 
.  fie  in  great  men.  Determined  on  the  destruction  of 
William  Henry,  an  object  of  alarm  and  anxiety  to 
the  Canadian  government,  he  aroused  the  savage 
warriors  from  Acadia  to  Lake  Huron.  They  gatli- 
ered  at  St.  Johns,  and  in  an  imposing  fleet  of  two 
hundred  canoes  ascended  Lake  Champlain,  to  unite 
their  rude  forces  at  Ticonderoga  with  the  veterans 
of  Montcalm.  The  spectacle  was  strange  and  pic- 
turesque, when  the  deep  silence  of  tliese  secluded 
waters  was  broken  by  the  barbarian  lleet,  bearing 
the  insignia  of  the  dift'erent  Chiefs,  and  the  war  song 
wildly  blending  with  the  hymns  of  the  Christian 
Indians.  Montcalm  assembled  his  armv,  amount- 
inii'  to  lifty-live  hundred  men,  and  sixteen  hundred 
Indians,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  George,  and  there  held 
a  formal  council  with  the  savage  tril)es.  De  Levis, 
with  tweiity-two  hundred  French,  escorted  by  six 
hundred  Indians,  marched  along  the  broken  sierra 
on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  by  paths  scarcely 
practicable  to  the  Indian  or  solitary  liunter.  Two 
days  later  Montcalm  embarked  the  remainder  of  his 
forces  in  four  hundred  and  fifty  bateaux  and  canoes, 
transporting  his  artillery  on  platforms  resting  upon 
two  boats  lashed  together.  On  the  second  day,  he 
discerned  the  three  signal  fires  kindled  by  Do  Levis 
at  Ganouskie  Bay,  to  announce  the  success  of  his 
arduous  marcli  and  tlie  assurance  of  a  secure  disem- 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


11 


I 


barkation.  Montcalm  effected  an  immediate 
landing,  moored  hii  boats  in  Harris  Bay,  near  Long 
Island,  and  the  next  day  invested  William  Henry. 
The  fort  was  occupied  by  a  gallant  veteran.  Colonel 

o 

Monro,  with  a  garrison  of  live  hundred  men,  sup- 
ported by  a  detachment  of  seventeen  hundred 
troops  in  a  entrenched  camp  upon  the  ground,  indi- 
cated by  the  ruins  of  Fort  George,  a  later  structure. 
Gen.  Webb,  was  encamped  with  a  formidable  army 
near  Fort  Edward,  but  made  no  effort  to  support  or 
relieve  the  troops  at  William  Henry.  The  siege 
was  pressed  Avith  the  utmost  energy  by  Montcalm, 
and  resisted  with  resolute  heroism,  but  on  the  sixth 
day  he  was  compelled  to  ask  terms  of  capitula- 
tion. By  this  capitulation  the  English  were  per- 
mitted to  march  out  of  the  works,  bearing  their 
arms,  and  were  to  be  protected  in  their  retreat  to 
Fort  Edward  by  a  French  escort.  The  English 
scarcely  passed  from  the  protection  of  their  works, 
when  the  Indians  assaulted  them,  first  with  insults 
and  menaces,  but  soon  by  the  tomahawk  and  scalp- 
ing knife.  The  savages  maddened  by  the  orgies  of 
the  last  night  in  celebration  of  their  victory,  and  in- 
flamed by  a  deadly  hostility  against  the  English, 
recognized  no  authority.  The  English,  panic 
stricken,  fled,  although  with  arms  in  their  hands, 
without  resistance.  Montcalm  and  other  French 
officers  hastened  to  the  scene  and  by  every  effort 
and  personal  hazard  attempted  to  protect  the  pri- 
soners. "  Kill  me,"  shouted  Montcalm,  "  but  spare 
my  prisoners."  This  event  has  cast  a  deep  shadow 
upon  the  fame  of  Montcalm,  little  softened  by  the 
mellowing  influence  of  more  than  a  centurv.  The 
imputation,  stimulated  by  the  angry  passions  of 
that  age,  that  the  massacre  was  a  deliberate  purpose, 
is  un worth V  consideration.     It  was  rather  a  con- 


12 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


H 


sequence  of  the  atrocious  policy  of  introducing  an 
ungovernable  savage  element  into  the  conflicts  of 
civilized  nations.  The  estimate  of  men,  women  and 
children  slain  in  this  massacre,  varied  from  thirty 
to  one  hundred.  The  remainder  of  the  garrison- 
either  effected  an  escape  or  were  rescued  or  ransom- 
ed by  the  French.  The  acquisition  of  a  vast  amount 
of  munitions  and  public  stores,  and  creating  an  alarm 
that  convulsed  the  entire  northern  colonies,  were  the 
results  of  this  brilliant  conquest.  Montcalm  demol- 
ished the  Fort  and  left  it, 

"  But  a  mass  ofasbes,  slaked  with  blood." 

The  Indians  in  their  eager  pursuit  of  spoils  and 
scalps  violated  the  new  made  graves,  and  tore  from 
the  festering  bodies  these  horrid  trophies.  Some 
of  tliese  bodies  were  victims  of  tlie  small  pox.  The 
savao'es  contracted  the  infection,  and  cariied  the 
dred  scourge  to  their  wigwams  in  the  far  west,  where 
it  spread  with  frightful  desolation. 

The  summer  of  1758  Avitnessed  the  assembling, 
at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  of  the  most  magnifi- 
cent armament  ever  before  marshalled  on  the  west- 
ern continent,  consisting  of  nine  thousand  Provin- 
cials and  six^thousand  regulars,  under  Abercrombie, 
but  inspired  by  the  genius  and  enterprise  of  the 
youthful  Howe.  At  the  dawning  of  a  beautiful  sum- 
mer morning  on  tlie  oth  of  July,  the  expedition 
embarked  on  more  than  a  thousand  Ijoats.  The 
formidable  artillery  was  transported  on  rafts.  The 
world  has  rarely  exhibited  a  scene  so  strauijelv  ffor- 
geous  and  impressive.  Nature  reigned  upon  the 
tranquil  waters,  and  on  the  bold,  dark  shores  of  the 
lake  in  primeval  solitude  and  seclusion.  Ko  human 
habitation  was  tliere.  Amid  the  clangour  of  mar- 
tial music  ;  the  glittering  of  burnished  arms  ;  the 
gleaming  of  the  bright  scarlet,  mingled  with  the 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


13 


ranger's  green  and  the  homespun  garments  of  the 
Provincials,  the  fleet,  in  regular  columns,  rapidly 
glided  down  the  lake.  That  night  the  army  lay  on 
Sabbath  Day  Point, — not  then  first  receiving  that 
appellation,  for  long  before,  it  was  known  by  the 
the  name.  At  midnight  it  proceeded  silently  and 
with  muffled  oars,  Howe  leading  the  van,  and 
landed  without  opposition  on  the  western  shore,  at 
the  extremity  of  the  lake  in  a  small  bay,  still  called 
Howe's  Landing. 

The  army  advanced  upon  the  French  works  in 
three  columns,  along  the  devious  paths  of  a  dense 
wood.  That  led  bv  Howe  encountered  a  fu2:itive 
detachment  of  French  troops  under  Trapazee,  wan- 
dering in  the  mazes  of  the  forest.  A  bloody  skir- 
mish ensued,  and  the  French  were  repulsed  with 
great  loss,  but  Howe  fell  at  tlie  first  fire,  and  with 
iiim  expired  the  hope  and  spirit  of  the  English  army. 
His  body  was  Ijorne  l)y  Pliilip  Schuyler,  then  a  gal- 
lant youth,  to  Albany,  and  buried  in  St.  Peter's 
Churcli,  with  every  solemnity  and  pomp  of  religious 
ritual  and  military  honors. 

Abercrombie  withdrew  to  the  landing,  lost  in 
vacillating  delay  a  precious  day,  and  yielded  to  his 
energetic  adversary  the  opportunity  of  arranging 
his  defences.  Montcalm  occupied  the  bold  pro- 
montory at  Ticonderoga,  which  is  washed  on  two 
sides  by  tlie  waters  of  Champlain,  and  on  the  third 
by  the  outlet  of  Lake  George.  The  French  lines 
were  constructed  about  half  a  mile  in  advance  of 
Fort  Carillon,  and  along  a  position  of  peculiar 
strength.  The  procrastination  of  Abercrombie 
enabled  Montcalm  to  form  in  front  of  his  entrench- 
ment an  abatis  about  one  hundred  yards  wide,  con- 
structed with  felled  trees,  lying  intermingled,  and 
(heir   pointed    limbs    projecting    outward.      The 


14 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


rf 


ii 
'I 


French  were  engaged  in  perfecting  this  original 
defence,  when  the  approach  of  the  English  was 
announced.  They  were  summoned  by  a  signal  gun 
to  their  stations  behind  the  parapets,  which  were 
from  eight  to  ten  feet  liigh,  and  about  an  eighth  of 
a  league  in  length.  The  lines  were  defended  by 
two  thousand  nine  hundred  and  ninety-two  men. 
The  British  regulars,  supported  by  the  Provincials 
and  light  Infantry  with  a  firm  and  steady  step  and 
bayonets  fixed,  advanced  in  four  massive  columns. 
But  when  they  reached  the  impenetrable  abatis  all 
order  and  form  were  broken;  they  attempted  to 
achieve  by  individual  prowess  what  organization 
could  not  accomplish,  and  assailed  in  desperate  and 
unyielding  valour,  one  point  and  then  another. 
They  could  not  advance,  and  high  courage  and  the 
instincts  of  discipline  forbade  their  retreat.  Exposed 
to  a  destructive  fire  of  musketry  and  cannon,  they 
were  swept  down  by  a  frightful  carnage.  Montcalm, 
his  coat  cast  off,  was  every  while  present  in  the  wildest 
tempest  of  the  battle;  but  Abercrombie,  in  ignoble 
safety  at  the  saw  mills,  two  miles  from  the  field, 
sent  no  order  for  retreat  from  the  hopeless  conflict. 
From  noon,  for  five  hours,  beneath  a  burning  July 
sun,  amid  this  carnage  and  desperation,  the  British 
troops  maintained  the  contest.  A  few  of  the  noble 
Highlanders  gained  and  died  upon  the  parapet, 
but  at  length  regiment  after  regiment  sullenly 
abandoned  the  field.  And  yet  these  brave  veterans, 
whose  heroic  valour  has  received  the  admiring  hom- 
age of  theii  conquerors,  equally  with  their  country, 
on  their  retreat  were  seized  with  a  sudden  and  inex- 
plicable panic,  and  rushing  impetuously  to  the  boats 
seized  them  in  the  wildest  confusion.  Many  were 
doubtless  preserved,  alone  by  the  energy  of  Brad- 
street,  from  a  death  beneath  the  waters  of  the  lake. 


»    s 


LAKE      GEOKGE. 


15 


they  had  escaped  before  the  walls  of  Carillon. 
Abercrombie  did  not  pause  until  he  had  placed 
the  length  of  Lake  George  between  his  vast  army 
and  the  insignificant  forces  of  Montcalm.  The 
British  commander  admitted  a  loss  of  two  thousand 
men,  while  that  of  the  French  did  not  exceed  five 
hundred,  chiefly  inflicted  by  the  Provincial  riflemen. 
The  visitor  can  readilv  trace  the  scene  of  this  tre- 
mendous  conflict.  The  line  of  tlie  fatal  abatis, 
within  a  few  years  was  marked  by  the  memorials  of 
war,  found  in  its  track. 

In  the  succeeding  year,  Montcalm,  leaving  small 
garrisons  in  the  Champlain  forts,  withdrew  his 
army  to  confront  Wolfe  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  Amherst,  landing  an  army  of  twelve 
thousand  men  at  a  point  opposite  Howe's  cove, 
after  a  l)rief  seige,  entered  the  evacuated  fortress  at 
Ticonderoga.  One  column  of  Burgoyne's  army 
under  Pjiillips  in  liTi',  advanced  througli  Lake 
George,  and  taking  possession  of  the  naked  walls  of 
Ft.  George,  which  had  been  dismantled  by  Schuyler, 
established  there  and  upon  Dianiond  island  depots 
of  supplies  and  munitions,  and  the  proximate  base 
of  the  Britisfli  army.  The  year  before,  a  detach- 
ment of  militia  encountered  a  party  of  tories  and 
Indians,  at  Sabliatli  Pay  Point,  and  defeated  them 
with  severe  loss.  Col.  John  Brown,  in  the  autumn 
of  1777,  penetratt'd  the  rugged  barriers  between 
Lake  (Jeoige  jind  Champlain,  with  five  hundred 
American  rangers,  captured  tlie  British  forts  and 
flotilla  at  the  landing  on  Lake  George,  and  upon 
his  return  made  an  unsuccessful  attack  on  Diamond 
island. 

This  rapid  sketch  of  a  region  so  singularly  affluent 
in  historical  associations,  will  enable  the  intelligent 
tourist    to  trace  the  scenes  of  these    events  with 


16 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


4 


precision  and  interest.  We  will  now  briefly  review 
its  varied  modern  aspects  which  seem  important  or 
attractive  to  the  visitor.  Caldwell,  at  the  head  of 
Lake  George,  and  which  is  reached  from  Glens  Falls 
by  a  line  of  elegant  coaches,  connecting  Avitli  cars 
from  Ft.  Edward,  has  long  been  a  favorite  resort  to 
the  summer  tourist,  from  the  beauty  of  the  scenery 
and  its  historical  interest.  The  ruins  of  Ft.  George, 
about  a  mile  south  east,  are  still  visible. 

Near  Caldwell  are  two  eminences  which  afford  a 
fine  views  of  the  lake  and  the  scenerv  of  an  extended 
territory;  IJattle-snake  Cobble  rises  south  of  the 
village,  and  may  be  readily  ascended.  Prospect 
Mountain  is  higher  and  more  difificult  of  access; 
Feach  mountain,  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  will 
interest  the  tourist.  The  eleoant  summer  residence 
of  Mr.  George  11.  Cramer  is  a  charming  ornament 
to  this  beautiful  spot. 

Two  first  class  hotels,  second  to  none  in  the 
Union  for  their  elegance  and  refinement,  are  open  for 
the  reception  of  summer  guests.  The  LakeHouse  and 
Fort  AVilliam  Henry  Hotel*  are  both  capacious  and 
admirably  appointed  houses.  The  latter  is  surpassed 
by  few,  in  its  spacious  dimensions,  and  by  none  in 
the  superiority  of  its  arrangements.  Mr.  Roessle,  of 
this  house,  is  celebrated  wherever  pleasure  travel 
has  extended,  for  the  taste,  forecaste  and  liberality 
with  which  he  conducts  his  magnificent  establish- 
ment. 

AVe  will  enumerate,  as  far  as  practicable,  the  vari- 
ous resorts  on  Lake  George,  to  partially  guide  the 
travelling  public. 


United  states  Hotel,  Caldwell. 
Lake  Geort;e  Hotel,        " 
Trout  Pavilion,  Oucenebury. 
Mohecan  House,  Bolton. 


Bolton  Houpo.  Bclton. 

14  Mile  Island  House,  14  Mile  Island. 

Lake  Oeorgo  House,  Hague. 

A  house  building  on  Long  Island. 


Two  small  steamers,   the  Minnehaha  and  the 

*Scc  advertisements  in  Appendix. 


I 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


ir 


Oanouskio,  owned  by  the  Cli<imi)hiiii  Ti'unsporta- 
tion  Company,  rnn  upon  Lake  George.  One  makes 
a  daily  trip  to  and  from  Tieonderoga  and  the  ether 
is  appropriated  to  pleasure  excursions.  About  two 
miles  down  the  lake  is  the  lovely  little  island,  known 
as  Tea  Island.  The  next  is  Diamond  Island,  deriv- 
ing its  name  from  the  profusion  of  crystals  formerly 
found  upon  it.  The  next  important  point  is  Long 
Island,  twelve  miles  from  Caldwell.  Near  the  centre 
of  the  lake  beyond,  is  Dome  Island,  which  Avill  be 
recognized  in  tlie  distance  by  its  dome  like  arch. 
West  of  this  is  liecluse  Island,  a  little  spot  occupied 
by  the  cottage  of  Mr.  Wattles  of  New  York.  The 
next  landing  is  Bolton.  Four  miles  beyond  is  Four- 
teen mile  island;  in  this  vicinity  is  re])orted  to  be 
the  best  lishiug  grounds  in  the  lake.  Shelving' 
Rock,  a  liigh  cliff  on  the  eastern  sliore,  and  Torgue 
mountain,  a  l)old  and  beautiful  promontory  on  the 
oppo.^ito  side,  form  tlu:*  entrance  to  the  Narrows. 
This  })ortion  of  tlie  lake  is  celebrated  for  its  strik- 
ingly picturesque  ])eauties,  It  is  often  referred  to  as 
the  ''  Thousand  Islands  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  in 
miniature.  The  Narrows  are  a  contracted  passage  of 
the  lake,  where  the  ojiposito  shores  nearly  approach 
each  other,  and  bevond  and  in  view,  the  numerous 
islands  so  cluster  together  and  crowd  the  lake,  that 
onlv  a  sinuous  track  remains  to  be  threaded  bv  the 
little  steamer.  Immediately  north  of  Shelving: 
Rock,  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  Avill  be  noticed 
Black  Mountain,  two  thousand  two  hundred  feet 
high,  and  the  loftiest  peak  in  the  region.  Guides 
may  always  be  obtained  to  ascend  the  mountain,  and 
from  its  summit  will  be  enjoyed  an  extensive  and 
delightful  view.  Nearly  opposite  Black  Mountain 
is  Half  Way  Island,  indicating  half  the  distance 
between  Caldwell  and  Tieonderoga.    We  pass  several 


18 


LAKE     GEORGE. 


r 


little  islands,  design'vtecl  by  various  fanciful  names. 
On  the  east  shore  lies,  at  the  foot  of  a  pleasant  bay, 
the  small  settlement  in  Dresden.  Nearly  opposite, 
on  the  west  shore,  is  Buck's  Mountain,  eight  hun- 
dred feet  in  height;  its  name  originated  from  a 
sensational  story  of  a  buck  in  leaping  from  a  preci- 
pice being  impaled  on  the  sharp  limbs  of  a  dead 
tree.  The  next  object  that  will  be  noticed  is  Sab- 
bath Day  Point,  a  narrow  spit  of  laud  projecting 
into  the  lake ;  on  the  other  side  is  Bluff  Point  and 
the  Odell  Isljind,  and  on  the  west  the  Scotch  Bonnet, 
Two  miles  farther  north,  nestling  in  the  midst  of 
charming  scenery  and  near  choice  fishing  grounds, 
two  prominent  cliffs  will  be  noticed.  Anthony's 
Nose  on  the  east,  and  Rogers'  Slide,  four  hundred 
feet  high,  on  the  west.  The  tradition  of  Rogers' 
adventure  is  now  regarded  as  apochryphal;  but  an 
event  occurred  in  the  immediate  vicinity  impressed 
by  almost  equal  romance.  Early  iu  the  Spring  of 
1758  Rogers,  with  one  huudred  and  eighty-two  men 
traversed  the  ice  of  Lake  George  on  snow  shoes, 
with  a  view  of  reconnoisance,  and  when  near  the 
foot  of  the  lake,  plunged  into  the  forest  covered 
with  snow  four  feet  in  depth.  He  fell  into  an  ambush, 
and  the  Indians  bore  to  Montcalm,  as  trophies  of 
victory,  one  hundred  and  forty-four  scalps  and  "two 
living  letters,"  their  designation  of  prisoners  they 
saved  for  intelligence.  Rogers  himself  escaped. 
The  circumstances  leave  little  doubt,  that  this 
terrific  battle  was  fought  on  snow  shoes.  (Watson's 
Essex  County.)  Two  miles  beyond,  after  passing 
Prisoner's  Island,  the  steamer  reaches  her  landing. 
A  delightful  ride,  upon  excellent  coaches  along  the 
picturesque  course  of  the  river,  abounding  in  the 
most  exciting  associations  of  history  and  tradition, 
conveys  the  traveller  to  the   Pavilion,  a  splendip 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


19 


hotel  near  the  ruins  of  Fort  Carillon.  At  the  land- 
ing is  situated  the  Fort  Ticouderoga  Hotel.  We 
should  be  sadly  remiss  in  a  duty  to  the  public  should 
we  fail  to  announce  that  the  line  of  coaches 
referred  to,  is  owned  by  Wm.  G.  Baldwin,  the  prince 
of  stagemen  and  speech  makers. 

We  will  pause  in  the  narrative  of  this  attractive 
locality,  while  we  notice  another  route  of  travel, 
which  connects  here  with  that  through  Lake  George, 
which  we  have  just  traced.  The  Rensselair  and 
Saratoga  Railroad  continues  from  the  Whitehall 
depot  about  a  mile,  to  a  point  below,  which  is  known 
as  the  Elbow.  A  notice  of  this  railway  is  not 
embraced  in  our  plan,  but  a  few  remarks  will  not 
be  without  interest  to  the  travelling  community. 
The  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  road  is  one  of  the 
most  perfect  in  the  country,  both  in  its  construction 
and  felicity  of  location.  A  large  proportion  of  it 
is  already  laid  with  steel  rails.  This  line  forms 
the  most  direct  and  eligible  route  between  New 
York  and  the  northern  lakes  and  Canada.  A  branch 
has  been  constructed  from  Fort  Edward  to  Glens 
Falls,  in  the  direction  of  Lake  George.  The  Renss- 
elaer &  Saratoga  Company  have  erected  at  Saratoga 
Springs  a  magnificent  depot;  palace  cars,  during 
the  summer  travel,  run  without  change  from  New 
York  to  the  Springs,  and  passengers  leaving  the 
city  after  breakfast  arrive  at  Saratoga  to  an  early 
dinner.  The  management  of  this  road,  under  its 
present  direction,  is  conducted  with  rare  ability  and 
prudence.  Isaac  V.  Baker  is  the  General  Superin- 
tendent. 

At  the  Elbow,  and  in  the  estuary  opposite  formed 
by  the  Poultney  river,  the  contending  fleets  at  the 
battle  of  Plattsburgh  were  dismantled  after  the  peace 


20 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


ill 


I 


of  1815,  and  left  to  a  common  decay;  tlieir  hulks, 
buried  in  the  mud,  still  remain.  Immediately  below 
is  ''Put's  Ilock,"  the  scene  of  his  moonlight  battle 
and  victory  over  Marin.  At  the  landing,  the  trav- 
eller will  embark  upon  one  of  the  majestic  steamers 
of  the  Ohamplain  Transportation  Company,  which 
form  a  day  and  niglit  line  between  AVhitehall  and 
Eouse's  Point,  connecting  with  various  railroad 
routes  on  their  passage.  The  Adirondack,  Captain 
Wm.  Anderson,  is  a  first  class  steamer,  of  superior 
beauty  and  great  power,  and  arranged  with  every 
aj^pliance  calculated  to  secure  comfort  and  safety ; 
she  possesses  state-room  accommodations  for  thr«^e 
hundred  passengers.  The  Vermont,  a  corresponding 
vessel,  somewhat  larger,  will  be  pr(.'})ared  to  enter 
the  line  at  the  opening  of  summer  travel  in  1871, 
under  the  command  of  Capt.  Wm.  II.  Flagg.  Tliese 
officers  are  veterans  in  their  profession  :  the  former 
has  been  in  the  service  of  the  Company  forty,  and 
the  latter  more  than  thirty  years,  and  liave  always 
been  distinguished  for  their  capacity,  intelligence 
aiul  courteous  deportment.  Passengers  under  all 
circumstances  may  repose  unl)ouiuled  confidence  in 
their  skill  and  prudence.  Several  of  the  subordinate 
officers  and  crew  have  been  nearly  an  equal  period 
in  the  same  employment.  These  vessels  are  models 
of  elegance,  neatness  and  convenience ;  their  tasteful 
furnishing  is  wholly  of  native  woods,  and  they  are 
regarded  as  second  to  no  steamer  that  floats  on 
American  waters.  The  United  States,  Capt.  George 
Rushlow,  an  older  vessel,  but  of  good  speed  and 
with  excellent  accommodations,  completes  the  line. 
This  Company  has  been  in  existence  more  than 
half  a  century,  and  transporting,  in  numerous 
steamers,  probably  more  thau  a  million  of  passen- 
gers, has  lost  through  that  long  period  upon  the 


M 


LAKE      GEORGE. 


21 


lake  but  one  boat,  aiul  that  by  accidental  fire,  with- 
out losing  at  any  time  u  single  passi  nger.  Col.  Le 
Grand  B.  Cannon,  as  President,  and  Alvin  L.  In- 
man,  General  Siiperinicixlcnt,  are  the  active  and 
efficient  managers  of  this  Cuin|)iiny.  "We  shall  have 
occasion  on  succeeding  pages  to  recur  to  these 
steamers  and  their  management. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  wharf,  South  Bay,  the 
route  of  Dieskau,  a  deep  indentation  on  the  west 
shore,  will  l)e  noticed.  The  tourist  will  watch  with 
interest  the  steamer  cautiously  threading  her  way 
along  the  meandering  course  of  the  channel,  among 
the  rank  a([uatic  grasses  of  the  marshes.  The 
French  ai)propriately  designated  this  singular  tract 
the  "Grand  Marias."  They  called  the  narrow  sheet 
of  water  from  Whitehall  to  its  confluence  with  the 
outlet  of  Lake  George  at  Ticonderoga,  Wood  Creek, 
and  at  that  point  Lake  Champlain  specifically  com- 
menced. The  steamer  lands  at  Benson,  Vt.,  thirteen 
miles  from  Whitehall,  and  Orwell,  seven  miles 
farther. 


:1 


I 


h\ 


V: 


LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 


Samuel  de  Champlain,  a  distiDguishccl  French 
officer  and  enthusiastic  explorer,  joined  a  war  party 
of  the  Algonquinsin  an  expedition  against  a  South- 
ern tribe,  and  on  the  4th  July,  1G09,  entered  upon 
the  waters  of  the  lake.  The  date  is  worthy  of  notice, 
as  the  discovery  of  Champlain  occurred  nine  years 
previous  to  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims,at  Plymouth, 
'uul  only  a  few  weeks  before  Ilendrick  Hudson  had 
reached  the  site  of  Albanv,  in  the  Half  Moon.  The 
lake  has  received  various  names.  Among  those 
applied  to  it  in  the  aboriginal  dialects,  weiv?  Petaon- 
bough,  in  allusion  to  the  aliernalions  in  its  scenery 
of  land  and  waiter,  and  Caniadere-'juarante,  the 
•'dour  of  the  countrv.*'  Tlie  discoverer  called  it 
Champlain.  The  French  afterwards  designated  it 
Lac  des  Iroquois,  but  posterity,  with  greater  justice, 
has  restored  the  aj^jn'opriate  name.  The  lake  fi'om 
Whitehall  to  St.  Johns,  is  one  hundred  and  twen- 
ty miles  in  length,  and  is  about:  thirteen  miles  in 
width,  oi)[)osite  Port  Kent,  at  its  broadest  point. 

The  rare  and  exceeding  1)eauty  of  this  lake 
attracts  uiid  entrances  the  observer.  Travellers 
pronounce  it  to  be  unsurpassed  in  either  hemis- 
phere, in  its  p', culiar  combination  of  the  pictur- 
esque and  beautiful  with  imi)osing  magniticence. 
On  the  eastern  shore  it  is  lined  by  a  highly  culti- 
vated country,  bounded  in  the  liorizon  by  the  irre- 
gular outline  of  Green  Moiint:iins;  on  the  west,  the 
dark  and  towering  Adirondacks,  broken   into  dis- 


1 


Lti 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


23 


t. 

4 

like 

krs 

iiis- 

tiir- 

11  ce. 

ilti- 

iTe- 

the 

ilis- 

M 

located  groups,  spread  into  the  interior  as  far  as  the 
eye  reaches,  at  points  projecting  their  rugged  spurs 
into  the  bosom  of  the  lake,  and  often  forming  lofty 
headlands  covered  by  dense  foi^sts,  or  presenting 
frowning  masses  of  naked  rocks.  Choice  ranges  of 
table  land  intervene  occasionally,  strikingly  contras- 
ting with  the  rude  mountain  scenery,  by  the  rich- 
est agricultural  improvements,  and  embellishment 
of  pleasant  villages.  Numberless  islands  enhance 
the  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  ice  usually  forms  in 
the  widest  part  of  the  lake  near  the  first  of  Febru- 
ary, and  remains  until  about  the  middle  of  April. 
The  transition  from  navigation  to  ice  is  often  amaz- 
ingly rapid.  The  spectacle  aflforded  by  this  vast 
expanse  of  icy  surface  is  strangely  brilliant  and 
exhilerating.  At  a  former  period  it  furnished  a 
most  convenient  military  avenue,  often  embraced  by 
the  French  and  Indians  in  their  terrible  and  bloody 
incursions  into  the  English  colonies.  Before 
the  introduction  of  railroads  it  was  made  the  great 
highway  of  commercial  intercourse.  It  is  still  a 
most  delightful  field  of  excursion  when  the  pleasure 
sleigh,  bounding  along  its  smooth  crystal  surface, 
disturbs  the  stillness  of  the  strange  solitude  by  the 
chimes  of  its  merry  bells.  Little  danger  is  incurred 
except  in  crossing  the  cracks,  which,  bursting  the  ice 
asundtr,  from  headland  to  headland,  with  a  sound 
like  the  crashing  of  thunder,  or  booming  of  artillery 
appear  soon  after  its  formation  has  shut  over  the 
lake.  When  the  strength  of  the  ice  is  impaired  by 
the  warm  sun  and  balmy  air  of  spring,  the  passage 
becomes  eminently  hazardous.  Incidents  of  suffer- 
ing and  exposure  from  the  cold  upon  the  lake  often 
present  scenes  of  thrilling  excitement.  One  of  these 
cannot  l)e  without  interest.  A  stranger  accompan- 
ied by  a  small  spaniel  arrived  at  Port  Kent  near 


!  1 


M 


LAKE      CHAM  PLAIN. 


nightfall  in  the  midst  of  ii  snow  storm,  and  persist- 
ed in  crossing  the  lake  against  the  strongest  remon- 
strance, a  foot  and  alone.  Early  next  morning  the 
dog  aroused  the  i?imates  of  the  hotel,  where  the 
traveller  had  stopped,  and  by  every  demonstration 
of  anxiety  attempted  to  excite  attention  and  sym- 
pathy. Guided  by  the  little  animal,  who  imme- 
diately returned  to  the  ice,  several  persons  followed 
him  to  nearly  the  centre  of  the  lake,  when  he  rushed 
upon  an  apparent  snow  drift  and  began  to  dig  into 
it,  with  the  most  piteous  cries,  lie  soon  revealed 
beneath  the  wreath  of  snow  the  lifeless  body  of  a 
master  his  fidelity  and  courage  had  failed  to  save. 
The  pathetic  tale  should  not  be  closed,  without 
stating  tliat  the  faithful  animal  was  preserved  and 
cherislied  as  his  fidelity  and  intelligence  deserved. 

The  scenery  of  the  lake  in  the  winter  is  indescri- 
bably beautiful  and  imposing,  Avhen  earth  and  ice 
are  clothed  in  their  pure  dazzling  mantle  of  snow, 
and  the  mountains  glow  in  the  sun  Ijcanis,  like  vast 
masses  of  opal. 

Lake  Champlain  v/ill  attain  a  far  more  momen- 
tous commercial  attitude  than  it  has  ever  occu- 
pied, if  the  magnificent  conception  of  uniting  the 
waters  of  the  8t.  Lawrence  with  the  Hudson  by 
ship  canals,  of  which  the  lake  would  be  an  impor- 
tant link,  should  be  realized. 

Ticonderoga  is  twenty-four  miles  fromWhitehall. 
Champlain  undoubtedly  penetrated  as  fur  as  this 
point,  and  probably  visited  Lake  George.  Li  this 
vicinity  must  have  occurred  the  merciless  battle 
with  the  Iroquois,  he  described  with  such  graphic 
power  i)\  his  journal,  and  an  account  of  which  will 
be  found  in  all  the  recent  histories  of  the  region. 
The  venerable  ruins  standing  upon  the  bold,  rocky 
summit  of  the  promontory,  is  viewed  with  peculiar 


LAKE      CIIAMPLAIX. 


OK 


)ii  bv 


teluill. 
this 
ii  this 

Dattle 
laphic 
li  will 

3gioii. 

focky 

jiiliar 


advantage  in  the  approach  from  the  South.  The 
fortress  at  Ticonderoga,  called  by  the  French  Caril- 
lon, bears  the  same  allusion  as  Che-onderoga,  the 
original  of  Ticonderoga,  to  the  brawling  waters  of 
the  outlet,  was  commenced  in  1755.  ;N"o  spot  on 
the  continent  is  surrounded  with  a  deeper  and  more 
thrilling  interest.  Not  only  from  its  majestic  ruins, 
and  hoary  age,  does  it  claim  attention,  but  deep 
emotion  is  aroused  by  the  fact  that  it  has  been  held 
by  the  military  possession  of  three  distinct  nations, 
and  is  the  common  theatre  of  their  glories  auC.  tri- 
umphs, and  of  their  defeats  and  disasters.  Its  envi- 
rons were  the  nursery  of  the  heroes  of  the  revolution. 
Most  of  the  ramparts,  the  covered  way,  and  walls  of 
the  edifices  remain,  and  will  attract  and  reward  the 
researches  of  the  toui'ist.  The  bakery,  situated  near 
the  south-western  angle  of  the  barracks,  and  beneath 
the  glacis,  is  the  best  preserved  portion  of  the  works. 
Immediately  above  the  steamboat  landing,  may  be 
traced  the  "Grenadiers'  Battery,"'  at  one  period  a 
formidable  redoubt.  Mount  Detiance,  rising  to  the 
height  of  seven  hundred  and  tit'ty  feet,  stands 
directly  south  of  the  fort  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
outlet,  and  Mount  Independence,  a  high  circular 
hill,  is  situated  across  tlie  lake  ou  the  A^erniont 
shore.  Both  of  these  localities  are  associated  with 
important  revolutionary  events. 

The  15ritish  had  held  these  works  more  than  fif- 
teen years  in  undisturbed  security.  It  was  occu- 
pied in  the  spring  of  1775  by  Capt.'De  La  Place, 
with  a  garrison  of  forty  men.  The  events  at  Lex- 
ington admonished  the  American  patriots  of  the 
importance  of  seizing  and  occupying  the  position, 
and  early  measures  were  devised  for  achieving  the 
object.    On  the  7th  of   May,  an  intrepid  band   of 

2 


I 


1 


\  \ 


H 


I  i 


is 


I 


i  5 

?  i 
i  t 

I 


If 


)  .f 


26 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


two  hundred  and  seventy  men,  all  but  forty-six  of 
whom  were  "  Green  Mountain  Boys,"  led  by  Ethan 
Allen,  with  Benedict  Arnold,  and  other  subordi- 
nates, who  subsequently  attained  high  distinction, 
were  secretly  assembled  at  Hand's  Cove,  about  a 
mile  north  of  Larabee's  Point.  Here  they  remained 
a  day  and  night;  and  early  on  the  morning  of  the 
8th  began  their  passage  to  Willow  Point,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  lake.  When  only  eighty  men  had 
crossed,  the  day  was  dawning,  and  Allen  decided  to 
advance  to  tlie  attack  of  tbe  fort  witliout  pausing 
for  tlie  arrival  of  the  remainder  of  his  force.  He 
was  guided  by  Nathan  Beaman,  a  lad,  who  lived  to 
narrate  to  the  present  generation,  the  wonderful 
exploit.  By  a  rapid,  (piiet  march,  they  reached  the  . 
covered  way,  through  which  the  visitor  now  enters 
unnoticed.  Tlie  sentinel  stationed  here,  snapped 
his  musket  at  the  breast  of  Allen  and  hastily 
retreated,  followed  by  the  Americans,  who,  forming 
in  two  lines  upon  the  parade,  awoke  the  garrison  by 
appalling  shouts.  The  first  door  on  the  second 
story  of  the  best  preserved  l)uilding,  on  the  left  of 
the  parade,  led,  it  is  believed,  to  the  apartment  of 
De  La  Place,  who,  aroused  by  the  tumult  rushed  in 
liis  night-dress  to  the  balcony,  there  to  be  confronted 
by  Allen,  where  the  memorable  enquiry  and 
resi'.onse,  too  familiar  to  be  repeated,  occurred.  The 
fortress,  which  had  cost  such  an  intinite  amount  of 
blood  and  treasure, was  won  without  a  blow,  and  with 
it,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  pieces  of  artillery,and 
a  vast  quantity  of  ammunition  and  military  stores. 
The  value  of  this  acquisition  was  fully  appreciated 
the  ensuing  winter,  when  large  trains  of  ox  sleds 
were  seen  traversing  a  wilderness  of  two  hundred 
miles,  transporting  the  heavy  guns  to  arm  the  bat- 
teries of  Washington  at  the  siege  of  Boston. 


\ 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


27 


111  the  summer  of  1777,  a  new  scene  opened 
in  the  eventful  history  of  Ticonderoga.  General 
St.  Clair  held  the  works  with  a  large  but  ineffective 
and  inadequate  garrison.  Mt.  Independence  bristled 
from  base  to  summit  with  batteries  and  redoubts, 
but  the  feeble  forces  of  the  Americans  did  not  per- 
mit the  occupation  of  Mt.  Defiance.  On  the  first  of 
July,  Burgoyne,  after  seizing  the  abandoned  works 
at  Crown  Point,  advanced  in  three  columns  against 
Ticonderoga.  Phillips  captured  an  important  emi- 
nence near  the  Lake  George  landing,  which  tradi- 
tion avers,  he  then  named  ''Mt.  Hope,"  from  the 
auspicious  influence  of  its  capture  on  the  campaign. 
The  first  ravs  of  the  sun  on  the  morninc:  of  the  fifth 
glittered  on  the  bright  scarlet  of  British  uniforms 
upon  the  top  of  Mt.  Defiance.  Burgoyne,  by  incredi- 
ble efforts,  had  ascended  the  steep  acclivities,  hith- 
erto deemed  impracticable,  and  erected  a  battery 
mounted  with  heavy  guns,  which  rendered  the 
works  wholly  untenable.  It  was  promptly  decided 
to  evacuate  the  entire  position,  and  the  purpose  was 
attempted  in  the  silence  and  darkness  of  the  follow- 
i);g  night.  St.  Clair  embarking  on  a  flotilla  of  two 
hundred  boats,  his  sick,  stores  and  all  munitions 
practicable  convoyed  by  five  galleys,  proceeded  to 
Skeensboro.  His  army  was  silently  crossing  tlie 
bridge  that  he  had  constructed  at  an  enormous  t  x- 
pense  between  Ticonderoga  and  Mt.  Independence, 
vestiges  of  which  still  at  times  interfere  with  navi- 
gation, when  a  flame  from  a  burning  house  on  Mt. 
Independence  shed  a  bright  illumination  ujjon  the 
scene,  and  exposed  the  movement.  Tlie  British  army 
was  instantly  alarmed,  and  in  pursuit.  Burgoyne, 
bursting  through  the  ponderous  bridge  and  boom, 
with  great  energy  pursued  the  flotilla,  which  was 
burned  or  captured  at  Skeensboro.      The  American 


I 


u> 


;i  H 


I     : 


V 


28 


LAKE      CHAM  PLAIN. 


army,  after  the  battle  of  Hubbardton,  was  for  a  period 
dispersed.  In  the  autuinii  of  the  same  year.  Captain 
Ebenezer  Allen  was  despatched  by  Colonel  Brown, 
during  his  expedition  already  mentioned,  to  seize 
the  works  erected  by  Burgoyne  on  ^It.  Defiance. 
Scaling  cautiously  the  steep  precipices  of  the  moun- 
tain, so  abrupt,  that  in  some  places  the  assailants 
were  obliged  to  climb  over  each  other's  shoulders, 
the  resolute  little  band,  cai)tnred  the  battery  with- 
out firing  a  single  shot.  The  British  maintained 
the  occupation  of  the  fortress  until  the  practical 
close  of  the  war. 

A  section  of  the  Whitehall  and  Plattsburgh  Iiail- 
road  is  constructed  between  Ticonderoga  and  Port 
Henry,  a  distance  of  seventeen  miles,  and  is  now  in 
operation. 

On  the  Vermont  shore,  the  first  landing,  about 
two  miles,  is  Larabee's  Point,  in  Shoreham, — 
(United  States  Hotel.)  At  the  landing  in  Crown 
Point  is  situated  a  new  and  pleasant  hotel.  A  mile 
in  the  interior  is  the  village  of  Hammond  Corners, 
in  the  midst  of  a  most  delightful  country.  The  trav- 
eller's attention  will  soon  be  attracted  by  the  ruins 
of  Crown  Point;  opposite  Crown  Point  is  Chimney 
Point,  presenting  a  bold  bluff,  designated  by  the 
French  ''Point  alaCheveleur.  The  allusion  conveyed 
by  the  name  is  loss.  This  position  was  seized  by  the 
French  before  their  occupation  of  Crown  Point  in 
1731.  The  idea,  imparted  by  the  formation  of  this 
peninsula,  has  been  recognized  in  the  name  applied 
to  it  in  various  languages.  The  Dutch  called  it 
"Crune  Pont,"  the  French,  ''Pointe  Le  Caronne," 
and  the  English,  Crown  Point.  It  was  a  place  of 
considerable  commercial  importance  during  the 
French  and  English  ascendency,  where  the  com- 
modities of  the   British   provinces  met   and  were 


LAKE      CHAM  PLAIN. 


29 


5J 


exchanged  for  tlie  peltries  gathered  by  the  French 
and  Indians  upon  their  Avide  liunting  grounds.  Flag- 
ged side  walks,  a  long  line  of  celljirs,  garden  walls 
fruit  trees,  and  otlier  memorials  of  the  i)ast,  fur- 
nish evidences  of  the  former  presence  of  a  dense  and 
civilized  poi)ulation.  Tiie  ruins,  which  will  be 
observed  from  the  steamer,  are  remains  of  the  fort 
erected  by  Amlierst  in  1759.  A  part  of  the  barracks 
and  tlie  Ibrtifications  are  in  good  preservation,  and 
altliough  not  tinged  with  any  of  tlie  romance  tliat 
entrances  at  Carillon,  are  interestin":  as  memorials 


of  more  than  a  century  ago.  'IMie  Fort  of  St.  Fred- 
eric, l)uilt  in  1731  by  the  French,  stood  near  the 
margin  of  the  lake.  Its  position  can  be  easily  traced. 
The  oven,  the  (covered  way  and  magazine  are  still 
discernible.  The  garrison  well,  in  Amherst's  fort, 
almost  one  hundred  feet  deep,  remains,  and  the 
course  of  the  covered  way  leading  to  the  hike  nniy 
readily  be  discerned. 

Two  miles  across  Bulwagga  liay,  the  ])oat  reaches 
Port  Henry.  At  the  south  api)ears  tin;  rough  accliv- 
ities of  th(;  l^ulwagga  Mountains.  Port  Henry  is 
pleasantly  situated.  It  is  the;  site  of  one  of  the  most 
extensive  iron  works  in  the  region,  and  the  ship- 
ping point  to  every  section  of  the  country  of  the 
immense  amount  of  ore  excavated  from  the  rocky 
hills  in  the  interior.  Thu  traveller  may  frequently 
observe  large  Ileets  of  canal  boats  discharging  their 
coal  from  Pennsylvania,  and  receiving  return  car- 
goes of  iron  ore.  Pease'  Hotel,  is  situated  here; 
the  Sherman  House  al)out  two  miles  in  the  interior, 
and  contiguous  to  the  vast  mineral  district.  Both 
are  spacious  and  excellent  houses.  A  small  steamer, 
the  Curlew,  plies  between  Port  Henry  and  Vergen- 
nes  daily.  Leavinn^  Vergennes  at  0.30  A.  M.,  on  the 
arrival  of  the  soutliern  train,  and  stopping  at  Fort 


ill 


nil 


V 


i: 


..i    ! 


30 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


Cassin,  Westport  and  Basin  Harbor,  arrives  at 
Port  Henry  in  advance  of  the  northern  boat,  and  de- 
parts at  1.30  P.M.,  after  the  arrival  of  the  sonth  boat. 
After  leaving  Port  Henry  the  mountain  views  on 
each  side  of  the  lake  begin  to  unfold  to  the  tourist, 
in  their  beauty  and  grandeur.  The  Bald  Mountain, 
standing  midway  between  Port  Henry  and  West- 
port,  is  about  two  thousand  feet  high.  It  is  easily 
accessible,  and  from  its  isolated  position  and  prox- 
imity to  the  water,  affords  a  rich  panoramic  view  of 
the  lake,  a  length  of  fifty  miles,  and  of  the  Vermont 
shore,  with  the  surrounding  mountains  on  every 
side.  Near  the  base  of  the  mountain,  lie  the  "Adiron- 
dack Springs." 

Westport,  a  i>leasant  village  ten  miles  from  Port 
Henry,  lies  at  the  head  of  north-west  bay, — (Person's 
Hotel.)  The  spires  of  Vergennes,  in  the  east,  will 
soon  be  perceived.  The  lake  again  contracts  in 
breadth,  and  at  its  narrowest  point  are  the  ruins  of 
Fort  Cassin,  at  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek,  (Riviere 
aux  Loutres,)  the  largest  river  in  Vermont,  and 
navigable  eight  miles  to  Vergennes.  In  the  war  of 
18P2,  Lieut.  Cassin  of  the  Navy,  repulsed  a  British 
flotilla,  attempting  to  burn  McDonough's  fleet  on 
the  stocks  at  A^ergennes,  from  a  hastily  construc- 
ted redoubt  at  this  place.  W^hen  the  fort  was  sub- 
sequently built,  it  received  its  name  in  commemo- 
ration ot  the  achievement.  The  Fort  Cassin  House 
is  a  quiet  and  agreeable  resort.  On  the  opposite  side 
of  the  lake  are  Split  Rock  Mountains,  with  a  Light 
House  at  the  north  extremity.  In  front  of  this,  is  a 
remarkable  formation  called  by  the  French  "  Roche 
Fendu,"  and  now  known  as  Split  Rock.  It  contains 
about  half  an  acre  of  earth  and  rock,  and  rises  thirty 
feet  in  a  bold  and  vertical  front,  being  separated 
from  the  main  land  by  a  fissure  ten  feet  wide,  which 


m 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


31 


in  high  water  is  submerged  by  the  lake.  Various 
theories  are  advanced  in  reference  to  the  agencies 
by  which  this  interesting  object  was  formed ;  the 
most  probable  of  these  is,  that  the  gradual  attrition 
of  the  earth  and  disintegration  of  the  rock,  were 
produced  by  the  combined  action  of  the  elements. 
Essex,  twelve  miles  from  Westport,  is  a  pleasant  vil- 
lage, delightfully  located.  The  large  brick  edifice 
near  the  centre  of  the  village,  was  the  former  resi- 
dence of  Gen.  Henry  H.  Ross.  (Royce's  Hotel.)  A  few 
miles  north  of  Essex,  almost  hidden  from  observa- 
tion by  overhanging  trees  and  bushes,  is  the  mouth 
of  the  Boquet  river,  a  stream  of  great  industrial 
value  ana  historical  interest.  In  May  1765,  William 
Gilliland,  the  pioneer  of  Essex  County,  entered  the 
stream  with  a  colony  from  New  York,  and  erected 
at  the  falls  two  miles  above,  the  first  dwelling  house 
built  between  Crown  Point  and  the  Canadian  settle- 
ments. Burgoyne,  in  June  1777,  occupied  the  river 
with  his  vast  armament,  and  at  a  redoubt  he  threw 
up,  near  the  same  place,  remains  of  which  could 
very  recently  be  traced,  held  his  famous  Indian 
treaty,  with  all  the  tribes  which  yielded  fealty  to 
England.  The  deep  bay  on  the  north  of  Willsboro 
Point,  a  long,  low  peninsula,  was  formerly  called 
Pereu  Bav,  now  Willsboro.  I^ear  its  mouth,  the 
good  and  noble  Corlear,  the  friend  of  the  Indians 
and  the  preserver  of  the  French  army  at  Schenec- 
tady, equally  from  the  storms  of  winter  and  the 
vengeance  of  a  savage  foe, was  lost  with  several  Iro- 
quois chiefs,  wfiile  on  a  mission  of  peace  and  concil- 
iation to  Canada.  A  part  of  this  bay,  and  afterwards 
the  lake,  from  this  incident,  was  called  Corlear.  The 
four  islands  directly  in  front,  representing  the  car- 
dinal points  of  the  compass,  were  known  by  the 
Frencli    as   Isles  des  quarter  vents,  and   to  the 


I 


i  ; 


; 


!l 


33 


LAKE      CHAM  PLAIN. 


English,  tlu;  Four  Brothers.  Near  these  islands,  the 
last  tlesperate  battle  between  Arnold  and  Carlton's 
fleets  occurred.  One  of  Arnold's  vessels  was  cap- 
tured, one  was  blown  up  and  four  escaped;  four 
others  were  run  ashore  on  Panton  Beach  directly 
opposite,  in  Vermont,  and  burnt  with  their  flags 
still  flying.    Their  charred  hulks  arc  yet  visible. 

Nearly  opposite,  upon  one  of  the  highest  i)eaks  of 
the  Green  Mountains,  will  be  observed  a  very  strik- 
ing object,  which  seems  like  the  efligy  of  a  reposing 
lion,  carved  on  the  imperishable  rock.  The  French 
caught  the  idea,  and  called  the  mountain  Leon 
Oouchant;  it  is  now  degraded  into  the  name  of 
Gamers  Hump.  We  now  api)roach  Rock  Dunder, 
which  appears  almost  to  interjios?  in  the  steamer's 
track.  It  is  a  dark,  naked  rock,  rising  in  a  perfect 
cone  more  than  thirty  feet  above  the  water.  Recent 
researches  seem  to  identify  it  with  the  "Gre^it  Rock 
Reggio,"  so  prominent  in  the  colonial  archives,  and 
according  to  the  remote  traditions  of  the  Mohawks, 
a  grand  landmark  in  past  ages  in  the  boundary  line 
between  their  domains,  and  the  country  of  the 
Algonquins.  They  long  preserved  the  story,  that  a 
gieat  chief,  ages  before  the  advent  of  the  ])ale  faces, 
named  Reggio,  was  drowned  at  its  base,  and  from 
him,  the  rock  and  the  lake  were  called  Reggio 
(Watson's  Essex  County.)  Just  on  the  left  is  the 
Light  House  upon  Juniper  Island,  and  on  the  right 
hand  Shelburn  Bay,  a  long  and  narrow^  sheet  of 
water  extending  four  miles  inland.  Here  is  situated 
the  harbor  and  ship-yard  of  the  Gha'mplain  Trans- 
portation Company,  where  their  steamers  are  built, 
and  moored  in  secure  winter  quarters;  and  here 
their  condemned  hulks  are  collected,  dismantled 
and  left  to  decay.  The  history  of  the  numerous  gal- 
lant steamers,  rotting  in  their  final  harbor,  would 


LAKE      CIIAMPLAIN. 


33 


iifFortl  a  rich  jind  most  valuable  chapter,  illustrative 
of  the  progress  of  steamboat  architecture.  To  the 
skill  and  judgment  of  Mr.  E.  Root,  Chief  Engi- 
neer, and  L.  S  Wiiite,  Master  Median ic,  who  have 
been  in  tiie  service  of  the  Company  forty  yejirs, 
must  be  ascribed  the  credit  of  placing  sucli  models 
as  the  Adirondack  and  Vermont  upon  the  waters 
of  tlie  lake.  The  berth  of  the  steamer  at  Burlington 
is  fourteen  miles  from  Essex,  and  is  well  protected 
by  fine  wharves,  and  a  long  breakwater  witli  a  light 
house  on  each  end.  The  elegant,  spacious  mansion 
of  Col.  Le  Grand  B.  Cannon,  occupying  a  conspic- 
uous eminence  immediately  south  of  the  city,  will 
command  particular  notice.  Burlington  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  prosperous  cities  of  Nev/ 
England,  witli  a  population  of  fifteen  thousand.  Its 
commanding  position  and  great  beauty  are  presen- 
ted irom  the  lake  with  peculiar  advantage.  As  the 
steamer  glides  by  the  Avharves,  passing  in  succession 
the  broad  streets,  delightful  views  are  presented 
through  their  long  vistas  a  mile  in  length,  termi- 
nated by  the  eminence  crowned  by  the  University 
buildings  on  its  summit.  Most  of  the  streets  are 
shaded  by  stately  trees  and,  lined  by  many  elegant 
edifices,  embowered  Avith  trees  and  shrubbery.  We 
shall  again  visit  Burlington.  In  the  transit  of  ten 
miles  between  Burlington  and  Port  Kent,  the  lover 
of  nature  Avill  contemplate  her  works  revealed  in 
exquisite  loveliness,  and  in  the  wildest  sublimity. 
The  lake,  studded  with  headlands  and  Isle,  expands 
on  every  side  in  the  richest  panorama.  On  one, 
the  eye  traces  the  outline  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
half  the  length  of  Vermont,  and  on  the  other, 
spread  the  Adirondacks,  thrown  into  chaotic  groups, 
with  some  of  their  highest  summits  lifted  into  the 
distant  horizon.     Contemplating  the  scene,  and  re- 


li 


34 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


1    ! 


collecting  that  the  lake  is  only  ninety-one  feet  above 
tide  water,  the  mind  reverts  to  the  hypothesis,  con- 
firmed by  so  much  silent  testimony,  that  the  ocean 
once  surged  through  this  valley,  and  that  these 
lofty  peaks  wliere  then  islands  projecting  above  its 
waves. 

Schuyler's  Island,  (Capon,  F.)  which,  at  an  early 
period  was  occupied  as  an  encampment  by  Schuyler, 
lies  on  the  left.  Point  Trembleau,  on  the  mainland, 
is  one  of  the  few  poetical  names  preserved  from  the 
Frencli  nomenclature.  In  the  distance,  its  pine 
crest  seems  to  be  floating  on  the  water.  Mount 
Trembleau  is  a  localitv  of  interest  both  to  the  stu- 
dent  of  physical  geography  and  the  naturalist.  It  is 
the  last  spur  of  the  Alleghanies,  and  at  its  base 
commences  one  of  those  great  northern  plains  that 
extend  to  tlie  Arctic  circle.  The  mountain  is  hypdr- 
stene,  or  granite,  but  directly  where  it  terminates 
the  stratification  of  the  Pottsdam  sandstone  starts, 
and  extends  over  a  wide  district. 

The  view  from  Port  Kent  is  among  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  extensive  upon  the  lake.  The  large  stone 
mansion  standing  upon  the  elevated  ground  was  the 
former  residence  of  Elkanuh  Watson.  The  passage 
of  fifteen  miles  to  Plattsburgh  is  crowded 
with  objects  of  great  liistoric  interest.  On  the  pine 
plain  a  mile  and  a  half  nortli  was  the  site  of  Am- 
herst's brief  encampment  in  1759.  The  little  island 
almost  touching  Valcour  on  the  south,  is  called  Gar- 
den Island,  from  the  tradition  that  it  was  occupied 
by  the  French  and  English  naval  officers  for  the 
cultivation  of  culinary  vegetables.  At  the  southern 
extremity  of  Valcour,  just*  in  front  of  a  tiny  grass 
plat,  lie  the  remains  of  the  Royal  Savage,  a  large 
schooner  of  twelve  guns,  sunk  in  Arnold's  battle. 
Many  abortive  attempts  have  been  made  to  raise  the 


w 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


35 


wreck,  which  is  v  4ble  in  low  water.  We  can  scarce- 
ly conceive  of  a  more  impressive  revolutionary  relic 
than  it  would  ]>v.)ve,  could  this  design  be  accom- 
plished. Arnold  ;id  moored  his  fleet  in  a  small  cove 
in  Valcour  island,  directly  opposite  Port  Jackson, 
hoping  to  escape  the  observation  of  the  British 
commander.  The  enemy's  fleet  did  pass  Valcour  on 
the  eastern  >ide,  before  the  position  of  Arnold  was 
noticed,  and  thus  approached  him  from  the  south. 
On  the  advance  of  the  British,  who  were  comman- 
ded l)y  Ca}>t.  Pringle,  although  Carlton  was  on 
board  the  flag-ship,  Arnold  formed  his  vessels  in 
a  line  between  Valcour  and  the  mainland.  A  fierce 
and  sanguinary  conllict  ensued,  protracted  through 
the  carnage  of  four  liuurs.  At  night,  Pringle  drew 
off  the  portion  of  his  fleet  engaged,  and  formed  a 
line  directly  south  of  the  island  to  prevent  the 
escape  of  the  shattered  American  vessels.  The  loss 
had  been  severe  on  both  sides.  Arnold,  hopeless  of 
further  resistance,  determined  to  retreat  to  the  pro- 
tection of  Crown  Point.  The  American  fleet,  silent- 
ly, covered  by  tlie  darkness  of  the  night,  passed 
around  the  north  end  of  Valcour,  in  a  single 
line,  each  vessel  guiding  the  course  of  that  follow- 
ing by  aligh.  at  the  stern, and  had  reached  Schuyler's 
island,  nine  miles  up  the  lake,  before  the  movement 
was  discovered  by  the  enemy.  (Palmer's  Champlain). 
The  result  we  liave  already  noticed. 

Crab  Island,  8t  Michael  of  the  French,  and 
known  for  a  time  as  Hospital  Island,  from  the  fact, 
that  the  wounded  of  both  fleets  in  1814,  were  placed 
upon  it,  lies  north  of  Valcour.  Between  this 
island  and  the  peninsula  of  Cumberland  Head,  is 
the  theatre  of  MacDonough's  victory.  A  mile  sonth 
of  Plattsburgh  will  be  noticed  the  modern  govern- 


Jfi, 


I 


u 


f] 


Hi 


36 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


iiient  barracks.   The  old  forts  and  cantonment  were 
located  between  tlie  new  barracks  and  the  village. 

The  trip  between  Plattsbnrgh  and  Rouse's 
Point,  present  aspects  unlike  any  other  section 
of  the  lake,  but  is  still  peculiarly  pleasant  and  beau- 
tiful. The  steamboat  landing  is  immediately 
contiguous  to  the  depots  of  the  Montreal  and 
Phittsburgh,  and  AVhitehall  and  Plattsburgli  Rail- 
roads. Not  stopping  at  this  important  and  interest- 
ing village,  to  which  we  shall  return,  we  proceed 
Avith  the  steamer  on  her  route  to  Rouse's  Point. 
After  passing  Cumberland  Head,  we  leave  the  broad, 
expansion  of  water,  the  rocky  cliffs  and  stern  prom- 
ontories, but  instead,  as  we  thread  a  more  confined 
anil  placid  channel  are  delighted  with  a  view  of  the 
rich  and  luxuriant  shores  of  the  islands  of  Vermont 
and  the  mainland  of  New  York,  with  the  scenery 
of  the  remote  mountains  on  either  side  softened  by 
distance.  Cumberland  Head,  (Cap  Scrononton,  of 
the  French, )three  miles  from  Plattsburgli,  has  been 
a  i)rominent  landmark  of  the  lake,  and  an  interest- 
ing point  in  its  annals.  On  the  east  stretches 
Grand  Isle,  the  largest  island  in  the  lake,  and  one 
of  the  mc»st  fertile  and  lovely  places  in  W^'mont. 
Twelve  miles  beyond  Cumberland  Head,  is  Isle  la 
Motte ;  it  was  named  from  La  Mothe,  a  French 
officer,  who  built  a  fort  in  1665,  on  the  north  end 
of  the  island,  which  he  named  Fort  St.  Ann.  It 
was  subsequently  called  Fort  La  Mothe.  This  island 
and  Point  A"  Fer  on  the  western  shore,  a  little 
north,  were  occupied,  and  important  military  posi- 
tions, both  in  the  Colonial  and  Revolutionary  war. 
The  Little  and  Big  Chazy  rivers  enter  the  lake  a 
short  distance  south  of  Point  Au  Fer.  Tradition 
states  that  this  name  was  derived  from  a  distin- 
guished Fi*ench  officer  De  Chasy  who  was  killed  in 


Ij 

h 
s| 
I 

tl 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


37 


the  vicinity  in  1G65.  (Palmer's  Cliamplain.)  A  brick 
house,  Mr.  Pahner  writes,  was  erected  on  this  point 
previous  to  the  revolution,  and  he  infers  from 
Kalm  that  dwellings  existed  here  in  1748.  The 
house  was  fortified  by  the  Americans  on  their  inva- 
sion of  Canada,  and  occupied  by  Burgoyne  in  1777. 
It  was  maintained  as  a  formidable  military  post  by 
the  British  until  after  the  treaty  of  peace.  The  pro- 
jection from  the  Vermont  shore,  nearly  east  of  the 
north  extremity  of  Isle  La  Motte,  is  Alburgh  Ton- 
gue, distinguished  by  tlio  French  as  Pointe  Algon- 
guin.  The  entj'ance  to  the  beautiful  Missisquoi 
Bay  will  be  observed  east  of  this  point.  Eight  miles 
beyond  Isle  La  Motte,  on  the  eastern  shore,  is  situ- 
ated Wind  Mill  Point.  The  French  erected  at  this 
place  a  large  stone  mill  in  1731.  This  fact  origina- 
ted its  name.  Directly  opposite,  is  the  village  of 
Rouse's  Point,  and  a  mile  beyond  are  the  railroad 
depots  and  steamboat  landing. 

We  will  now  return  to  Whitehall,  and  pursue 
another  jiopular  route  of  travel  to  Plattsburgh. 
This  is  cbietly  by  way  of  the  Rutland  and  Burling- 
ton Railroad. 

The  Cliamplain  Canal  enters  the  lake  at  White- 
hall by  three  locks.  AVhitehall  transacts  a  heavy 
business  in  lumber.  A  valuable  mineral  spring,  the 
Adirondack,  is  the  only  object  worthy  of  particular 
attention.  (Hall's  Hotel ;  Vaughan  House.)  The 
road  running  to  Rutland  connects  at  this  depot, 
with  the  trains  to  and  from  Saratoga.  The  cars 
pass  through  the  villages  of  Fair  Haven,  six  miles, 
Ilydeville,  two  miles,  Castleton,  three  miles,  where 
the  Rutland  and  Washington  railroad  connects ; 
three  miles  from  the  village  is  Lake  Bomerseen,  a 
pleasant  lesort  for  fishing  and  recreation,  where 
is  a  small  hotel.     Near  Castleton  is  the  only  white 


i1 


38 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


!   t 


' 


soap  stone  pencil  manufactory  in  the  country : 
West  Rutland,  seven  miles ;  to  Rutland,  three.  The 
country  is  eminently  beautiful,  and  the  prospect  is 
constantly  unfolding  fresh  views  of  the  Green 
Mountains.  The  traveller  will  notice  the  large  quar- 
ries of  the  finest  slate,  and  he  has  now  entered  upon 
the  vast  marble  district  that  occupies  a  large  por- 
tion of  central  Vermont,  and  is  scarcely  second  to 
any  industry  of  the  state  in  the  business  and  wealth 
it  yields.  Rutland.is  a  pleasant  and  prosperous  town, 
with  a  population  of  about  ten  thousand.  A  large 
brick  depot  stands  in  the  lower  part  of  the  village, 
from  whicli  radiate  railroads  running  in  every  direc- 
tion. That  whicli  we  have  traced  connects  with 
Troy,  Albany,  Saratoga  and  the  west,  and  tlie  West- 
ern Vermont, — the  Harlem  extension, — at  the  south. 
At  Bellows  Falls  the  Rutland  and  Burlington  road 
forms  junctions  with  different  lines,  leading  to  Xew 
York  by  the  Connecticut  valley,  to  Boston,  and  vari- 
ous sections  of  Xew  Hampshire.  Our  province  is  to 
pursue  that  which  tends  to  Burlington,  which, 
under  a  new  arrangement,  is  now  known  as  the 
Central  and  V.  &  C,  Rutland  Division. 

Rutland  stands  in  the  verge  of  the  Green  Mount- 
ains. The  highest  peaks  in  the  vicinity  are  Shrews- 
bury, Pico  and  Killington.  A  pleasant  drive  of 
seven  miles,  affords  a  charming  excursion  to  the  lat- 
ter, which  is  the  third  highest  summit  in  the  state. 
Otter  Creek,  in  Rutland,  furnishes  an  extensive 
water  power.  Sutherland  Falls,  seven  miles  from 
the  village,  on  this  stream,  is  a  line  cascade,  with 
vast  hydraulic  capacity.  At  some  seasons  it  is  visi- 
ble from  the  cars.  Clarendon,  four  miles  south,  will 
claim  a  visit  by  its  medicinal  springs  and  remark- 
able •  cave.  The  "  Middletown  Healing  Springs," 
reached  by  an  interesting  road,  should  not  be  neg- 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


39 


lected.  The  marble  quarries  and  mills  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  Rutland  will  repay  a  protracted  examination. 
Rutland,  until  recently,  was  the  centre  of  a  power- 
ful railroad  influence, anil  extensive  work-shops  were 
located  here.  It  is  the  residence  of  Governor  Page, 
the  former  energetic  President  of  the  R.  and  B. 
Company,  Among  the  hotels,  are  the  Bates,  a  new 
and  superior  house;  the  Bard  well  and  Central.  Curi- 
osity and  sometimes  a  more  reverent  sentiment 
often  inclines  the  sojourner  to  visit  the  cemeteries, 
to  trace  out  the  graves  of  a  past  generation.  To 
aid  such  researches,  we  shall  incidentally  indicate 
the  graves  of  a  few  of  the  eminent  dead.  In  Rutland 
none  are  more  so,  than  Charles  K.  -Williams  and 
Robert  Pierpont. 

Pittsford,  seven  miles,  Brandon,  eight  miles,  is 
distinguished  for  its  manufactories.  Here  may  be 
explored  two  singular  caves,  and  a  mysterious 
*' Frozen  Well."  Stag  s  run  from  the  Brandon 
House,  a  commodious  hotel,  to  Lake  Dunmore, 
nine  miles.  This  l)eautiful  and  picturesque  sheet  of 
water  reposes  almost  within  the  embrace  of  the 
mountains.  It  affords  fine  sport,  and  on  its  banks 
are  a  good  hotel,  iind  cottages  for  the  reception  of 
guests.  Lana  Cascade,  a  wild  fall,  is  formed  by  a 
little  stream  that  empties  into  the  lake.  At  Whi- 
ting, five  miles,  will  be  the  junction  of  the  Addison 
Railroad,  which  is  designed  to  create  a  connection 
by  a  ferry  bridge,  with  the  Whitehall  and  Platts- 
. burgh  Railroad  at  Ticonderoga.  Soon  after  leaving 
this  station,  the  Adiroudacks  appear  on  the  western 
horizon.  Salisbury,  five  miles,  is  the  next  station, 
and  six  miles  further  we  reach  Middlebury,  lying 
on  both  sides  of  Otter  Creek,  and  a  town  of  con- 
siderable manufacturing  importance. 

It  is  the  seat  of  Middlebury  College,  a  literary  in- 


40 


LAKE      CIIAMPLAIX. 


; 


!  i 


stitution  of  high  reputation.  The  village  is  plea- 
santly situated,  and  commands,  as  does  the  whole 
line  of  the  road,  a  fine  prospect  of  the  mountains, 
and  of  a  heautiful  country.  Stages  regularly  run 
to  Lake  Dunmore,  eight  miles,  during  summer 
travel.  (Addison  House.)  Among  the  eminent  men, 
whose  graves  are  at  this  place,  the  intelligent  tra- 
veller will  at  once  recall  the  Chipmans ;  Prof.  James 
Meechem,  and  Senator  Samuel  S.  Phelps,  one  of 
the  brightest  intellects  that  ever  adorned  Vermont. 
A  few  miles  from  Middlebury,  the  road  passes  over 
a  deep  gorge,  at  New  Haven  river,  where  some 
years  ago,  a  little  hamlet  was  swept  away  by  a  sud- 
den and  teu'ible  freshet.  Vergennes,  (twelve 
miles)  was  incorporated  iu  1788,  with  a  city  char- 
ter, and  named  after  the  eminent  French  minister. 
It  stands  about  half  a  mile  from  the  depot,  at  the 
head  of  the  ship  navigation  on  Otter  Creek.  It  pos- 
sesses a  water  power  of  unusual  magnitude  and 
value,  but  which  is  but  partially  occupied  by  some 
important  works.  At  its  ship  yard  the  Ueet  of  Mac- 
Donough,  atPlattsburgh,  was  built,  during  the  war 
of  1812,  from  timber,  which  a  few  months  before 
was  standing  in  the  forest.  Tliere  is  here  an  ex- 
tensive United  States  Arsenal.  Otter  Creek,  leap- 
ing down  a  sheer  rock  of  nearly  forty  feet,  form  a 
beautiful  cascade.  (Hotels, — Tiie  Stevens  House 
and  Frankliu  House.)     The  Elgin  S[)ring3  are  sit- 


uated three  miles  from  Vergennes. 


Her*.^  is  a  good 


boarding  House,  from  wiiicli  daily  stages  run  to  the, 
depot.  Among  the  graves  at  Vergennes  are  those 
of  the  Captains  Sherman,  father  and  son,  who  ini- 
tiated the  admirable  steamboat  system  on  Lake 
Chami)lain. 

The  remaining  stations  ])efore  reaching  Burling- 
ton, are  Ferrisburgli,  two  and  aiialf  miles;  Noith 


F 

oi 

all 

ai 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


41 


Ferrisburgh,  three  and  a  half  miles  ;  Charlotte,  five 
miles  and  Shelbiirn  live  miles.  In  the  construction 
of  the  railroad,  the  bones  of  a  fossil  whale  in  remark- 
able jn'eservation,  where  exhumed  at  Charlotte,  and 
are  now  exhibited  in  the  scientific  rooms  at  Mont- 
pel  ier. 

This  road  terminates  at  the  spacions  depot  in 
Burlington,  but  passengers,  who  do  not  wish  to 
stop  at  this  beautiful  city  may  immediately  proceed 
by  the  Vermont  Central,  or  embark  on  one  of  the 
lake  steamers.  The  Cakes  Ames  runs  in  connec- 
tion between  the  Kutland  and  Bnrlington,  and  the 
Montreal  and  Plattsburgh,  and  the  Whitehall  and 
Plattsburgh  railroads,  both  of  which  have  their 
depots  at  the  steamboat  landing  in  Plattsburgh. 
The  steamer  midves  fonr  regular  daily  trips  in  each 
direction  ;  one  by  the  way  of  Port  Kent,  and  the 
other  direct,  a  distance  of  twenty-four  miles,  be- 
tween Plattsburgh  and  Burlin<jton.  This  is  a 
novel  and  liighly  agreeable  trip.  The  boat  glides 
along  Lone  Rock,  or  Sharpshins  Point,  where  the 
noble  edifice,  erected  for  a  literary  institntion,  by 
the  late  l^ishop  Ho[)kins,  will  be  noticed  ;  by  Apple 
Tree  and  ColchesterPoints,and  in  siglit  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Winooski,  and  soon  that  of  Lamoille  river, 
two  valuable  streams  which  enter  the  lake  in  Mal- 
lett's  Bay,  a  deep  indentation  on  the  east,  and 
famous  as  a  fishing  ground  ;  througli  a  narrow  pas- 
sage between  two  reefs,  over  which  in  a  calm  the 
water  ripjiles  almost  beneath  jier  gunwale,  but  in  a 
storm  bursts  upon  tliem  in  terrific  surges.  The 
government  is  now  erecting  a  most  necessary 
Light  House  at  this  i)lace.  Tlie  boat  continues  to 
run  parallel  to  the  Vermont  shore  and  the  beauti- 
ful islands  that  skirt  it.  She  passes  Providence  Is- 
land, the  first  north  of  Carlton's  Prize,  on  which 


42 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


|>M' 


the  passengers  landed  in  1819,  in  small  boats  from 
the  wreck  of  the  burning  Phoenix.  On  the  east,  a 
dark,  naked,  solitary  rock  may  be  seen,  standing 
above  the  water.  The  tradition  of  the  lake,  states, 
that  the  British  fleet  in  pursuit  of  Arnold,  after 
the  battle  of  Valcour,  mistaking  this  rock  as  it 
loomed  up  in  the  obscurity  of  an  autumnal  fog,  for 
a  vessel,  opened  fire  upon  it,  and  from  that  day,  the 
sailors  have  called  it  "  Carlton's  Prize."  A  little 
cove  will  appear  near  the  North-eastern  extremity 
of  Valcour  Island,  interesting  to  the  student  of  his- 
tory from  the  fact,  that  three  of  Amherst's  fleet,  in 
1759,  overtook  some  French  vessels  and  capturing 
them,  destroyed  the  last  remnant  of  the  domination 
of  France  upon  the  lake.  Traversing  Cumberland 
Bay,  the  steamer  will  pass  over  the  position  occu- 
pied by  the  hostile  fleets  in  the  battle  of  September, 
1814.  We  omitted  to  state,  that  the  harbor  of 
Plattsburgh  is  protected  by  an  ample  Breakwater, 
bearing  a  bright  light  at  each  end. 

The  novel  and  peculiar  construction  of  the 
Oakes  Ames  requires  a  brief  notice.  Slie  is  remark- 
able for  her  great  strength,  and  a  speed  scarcely 
never-impeded  by  any  stress  of  weather,  that  enables 
her  to  make  the  distance  (about  twenty-four  miles) 
between  Burlington  and  Plattsburgh,  in  a  run  of 
one  hour.  She  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long, 
has  a  beam  of  fifty  one  feet,  and  hold  eleven  feet ; 
and  has  two  engines  of  five  hundred  horse  power 
each.  Her  peculiarity  consists  in  being  construct- 
ed and  adapted  by  her  arrangements  to  form  a  pro- 
longation of  the  railroads,  or  makes  her  rather,  a 
vast  floating  railroad  bridge.  A  regular  track  runs 
along  her  lower  deck,and  an  engine  on  shore  by  using 
the  "self  adjusting  railroad  bridge,"  places  a  train  of 
six  loaded  cars,  with  the  utmost  facility  and  in   an 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


43 


incredibly  short  time,  upon  the  train-way  on  the 
boat,  and  the  bulwarks  at  her  bows,  which  have  been 
temporarily  removed,  being  replaced,  she  transports 
them,  with  almost  railroad  speed  to  the  opposite  con- 
necting depot,  where,  by  the  same  machanism,  they 
are  taken  from  the  boat,  placed  upon  the  railroad, 
and  on  their  course,  with  the  delay  of  only  a  few 
moments.  This  bridge  adjusts  itself  to  any  eleva- 
tion of  the  boat,  and  forms  a  perfect  connection 
between  the  track  on  shore  and  the  way  upon  the 
boat.  This,  wholly  original  and  most  important  gift 
to  labor,  by  skill  and  practical  science,  was  invent- 
ed and  patented  by  Capt.  N.  B.  Proctor,  formerly 
commander  of  the  Oakes  Ames,  and  will  excite  the 
closest  examination.  The  circumstances  connected" 
with  this  steamer  probably  have  no  parallel.  Her 
peculiar  and  unique  model  was  designed  by  Captain 
Proctor ;  to  him  was  confided  the  selection  and  pre- 
paration of  all  the  timber  in  her  construction; 
he  built  her  at  his  private  ship  yard,  and  until  the 
present  season,  ran  her  with  great  success.  The 
public  are  mainly  indebted  for  the  inauguration  of 
this  great  progress  in  railroad  and  steamboat  trans- 
portation to  the  eiiterprize  and  influence  of  Gov. 
Page,  of  llutland,  Lieut.  Governor  Underwood,  of 
Burlington,  and  Mr.  Ames  and  Mr  Peter  Butler,  of 
Boston. 

The  Oakes  Ames  is  now  commanded  by  Capt.  B. 
J.  Holt,  an  able  and  reliable  officer.  In  no  depart- 
ment of  the  steamboat  service,  whether  on  the 
ocean  or  upon  the  lakes,  does  a  higher  responsibility 
exist,  than  is  involved  in  the  duties  that  rest  upon 
the  commander  of  one  of  the  Champlain  steamers,or 
where  sounder  judgment  and  skill  are  required.  The 
vessels  are  large,  often  laded  with  immense  freight, 
and  great  numbers  of  passengers;  they  run  day  and 


i- 


I 


44 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


II  ■ 


\    I 


M 


night,  throiigli  a  very  complicated  and  difficult 
navigation  ;  many  sections  of  the  lake  are  charac- 
terized by  shallows,  rocks  and  reefs,  and  with  a  con- 
figuration that  compels  the  steamer  to  run  almost 
in  contact  with  the  land.  The  presence  of  abrupt 
headlands,  and  the  vicinity  of  lofty  ranges  of  moun- 
tains, that  pre-eminently  control  the  atmospheric 
current,  subject  the  lake  to  sudden  and  severe 
squalls  and  heavy  gales,  which  often  produce  rough 
and  what  is  known  to  the  sailors  as  chopping  seas, 
without  the  refuse  of  sea-room.  The  fact  which  we 
have  already  mentioned,  that  a  steamboat  naviga- 
tion extending  over  sixty  years,  under  such  circum- 
stances, has  experienced  but  a  single  disaster,  de- 
monstrates the  skill  and  prudence  of  the  officers  and 
the  excellence  of  the  vessels. 

A  rigid  and  exact  system  of  discijiline  prevails  on 
these  steamers.  It  was  instituted  at  an  early  period 
by  the  Captains  Sherman,  and  has  reached  its  exist- 
ing degree  of  perfectness  under  the  present  able 
administration  of  the  Ohamplain  Transportation 
Company.  Upon  the  boats  of  this  Company  each 
crew  is  formed  into  a  regular  fire  company,  and 
once  at  least,  on  each  trip,  and  once  a  week  while 
lying  in  port,  are  strictly  and  regularly  instructed 
in  their  duties.  An  uniform  signal  calls  each  indi- 
vidual to  his  designated  station,  whether  at  the 
boats,  the  pumps,  or  other  service.  This  system  is 
enjoined  by  strict  printed  orders.  The  vessels  are 
supplied  with  hose,  buckets  and  other  usual  appen- 
dages to  Fire  Companies,  and  seem  amply  guarded 
from  the  perils  of  fire. 

We  are  permitted  to  copy  the  opinion  of  the 
United  States  Supervising  Inspector  of  the  North- 
ern District  of  New  York,  iu  reference  to  the  man- 
agement ot  these  boats.    After  passing  high  enco- 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


45 


miums  upon  their  system  and  discipline,  he  adds  : 
"  In  a  word,  the  Adirondack,  Canada  and  United 
States,  are  Avortliy  examples  of  completeness,  and 
the  discipline  on  board,  as  well  as  safety  to  life  and 
property,  are  unsurpassed  by  any  other  steamers  that 
have  come  to  my  notice."  "  These  results"  he  writes, 
"  are  mainly  attributable  to  the  superior  outfit,  the 
excellent  discipline  of  officers  and  crews,  and  the 
general  good  management  which  cliaracterizes  the 
steamers  of  tluit  line." 

That  they  may  easily  be  recognized,  the  officers 
and  crews  of  these  steamers  wear  a  regulation  uni- 
form. 

In  a  judicious  policy,  the  government  has  employ- 
ed an  able  corps  of  Engineers,  under  the  Supervision 
of  Gen.  Cutts,  in  making  a  complete  survey  of  the 
lake  by  triangulation.  The  pilots  on  its  water, 
possess  no  charts,  and  are  governed  wholly  by  their 
own  experience  and  the  information  they  collect. 
It  is  a  singular  circumstance  that  the  British 
authorities,  more  than  a  century  ago,  possessed 
minute  and  exact  charts  of  the  lake,  derived  from 
their  own,  and  French  surveys,  whicli  Avere  pub- 
lished, but  appear  never  to  have  been  reproduced 
in  this  country.  Elkanah  Watson  brought  from 
London  one  of  these  maps,  which  contained  this 
chart,  in  the  year  1784. 


I 


46 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


PLATTSBURGH. 


,K.i 


I 


This  village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  both  banks 
of  the  Sarauac  river,  at  the  foot  of  Cumberland  Bav. 
It  derived  its  name  from  Zephaniah  Piatt,  the  origi- 
nal proprietor,  subsequent  to  the  revolution.  It 
was  rendered  memorable  during  the  war  of  1812,  by 
the  brilliant  naval  and  military  victories,  of  which 
it  was  the  theatre.  In  1813,  Col.  Murray,  of  the 
British  army,  made  a  predatory  incursion,  and  occu- 
pied for  a  brief  period  the  village,  burning  and  car- 
rying off  a  large  amount  of  public  and  private  pro- 
perty, here  and  in  the  vicinity.  In  the  ensuing 
summer.  Gen.  Izard  was  ordered  to  the  Niagara 
frontier  with  all  the  effective  army,  leaving  Gen. 
Macomb  with  a  small  fragmentary  force  to  defend 
the  important  port.  It  mainly  consisted  of  three 
earth  works:  Ft.  Moreau,  the  largest,  in  the  centre  ; 
Ft.  Brown,  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  Ft.  Scott, 
on  the  margin  of  the  lake.  The  ruins  of  these  works 
still  exist,  and  Avill  be  visited  with  deep  interest  by 
the  tourist.  The  fleet  of  MacDonough  was  moored 
in  the  bay,  stretching  in  a  line  from  Crab  Island  to 
the  Peninsula  of  Cumberland  Head. 

On  the  5th  of  September,  Sir  George  Provost,  the 
Governor  General  of  Canada,  reached  the  Brick 
Tavern,  eight  miles  from  Plattsburgh  on  the  Chazy 
road,  with  an  army  of  fourteen  thousand  men, 
formed  by  some  of  the  choicest  regiments  in  the 
British  service.    At  this  point,  one  column  diverged 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


47 


in  order  to  upproach  Plattsburgh  by  the  Beekman- 
town  road,  while  the  main  body  was  to  advance  upon 
the  road  it  occupied,  and  along  the  beach  of  the  lake. 
Major,  afterwards  the  distinguished  General  Wool, 
was  dispatched  with  two  hundred  regulars,  to  sus- 
tain the  militia  riflemen,  who  were  hovering  along 
the  British  line  of  march.  He  met  and  interchang- 
ed shots  with  the  British  advance  in  Beekmantown, 
but  fell  back  to  Culver's  Hill,  four  and  a  half  miles 
from  Plattsburgh,  where  a  brief,  but  gallant  action 
occurred,  in  which  Lt.-Col.  AVillington  and  Ensign 
Chapman  of  the  third  Buffs,  were  killed.  Wool  fell 
back  to  Halsey's  Corners,  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
Plattsburgh,  where  the  road  turns  in  both 
directions  at  right  angles.  In  this  commanding 
position  Capt.  Leonard  placed  a  battery  of  two 
guns,  masked  by  Wool,  and  a  small  party  of  Mili- 
tia. Tliree  terrible  discharges  were  pcuired  into 
the  British  column  by  this  battery,  making  long 
lanes  through  its  ranks,  marked  by  a  bloody  track. 
Here  Lt.  Kingsbury,  of  the  Buffs,  was  mortally 
wounded,  and  died  in  the  house  of  Mr.  Isaac  C. 
Piatt,  on  the  elevated  ground.  The  gallant  veter- 
ans did  not  falter  a  moment ;  the  trumpet  sounded 
the  charge,  and  throwing  off  their  knapsacks  to  the 
right  and  left  of  the  road,  they  rushed  impetuously 
down  the  slope  to  assail  the  American  position.  Leo- 
nard hastily  retreated,  and  took  a  position  at  the  east 
end  of  the  lower  bridge,  to  protect  the  retreat  of  the 
detachments.  In  the  meanwhile,  the  other  column 
had  advanced  more  slowly, impeded  by  obstacles  form- 
ed in  the  road,  the  destruction  of  the  Dead  Creek 
bridge  by  Colonel  Appling  and  Major  Sproul, 
commanding  the  American  detachments,  and 
the  attack  by  several  galleys  of  MacDonough's 
fleet,  as  the  column  was  crossing  the  beach  at  the 


ii 


i  ^ 


48 


LAKE      CIIAMPLAJX. 


1 1 


if;  (       I 


foot  of  the  bay.  The  planks  wore  removed  by  the 
Americans  from  ))oth  bridges  in  the  vilhige,  and  tlie 
material  used  for  the  construction  of  batteries. 
The  British  made  several  attempts  to  cross  the  river 
at  these  points,  each  of  which  were  gallantly  re- 
pulsed. The  losses  of  both  armies  were  severe  in 
the  engagements  of  this  day,  amounting  to  forty- 
five  Americans  and  more  than  three  hundred  Brit- 
ish, killed  and  wounded.  The  resistance  bv  the 
Americans  was  very  essentially  aided  by  a  com- 
pany of  volunteers  commanded  by  Capt.  Aiken,  of 
Essex  County,  and  composed  of  youths,  whose  age 
exempted  them  from  military  duty.  They  had  dis- 
tinguished themselves  on  the  Beekmantown  road, 
and  now,  occupying  a  stone  mill  near  the  lower 
bridge,  assailed  the  enemy  by  an  active  and  effective 
fire.  In  182G,  Congress,  to  manifest  its  appreciation 
of  their  valor  and  patriotism,  presented  to  each 
member  of  this  company  an  elegant  rifle. 

The  British  commander  was  engaged,  up  to  the 
loth,  in  erecting  a  line  of  batteries  and  redoubts, 
which  extended  from  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  in 
various  commanding  positions,  to  a  point  above  the 
burial  ground.  The  Americans  were  equally  active 
in  strengthening  their  different  works.  On  the  7th, 
Lt.  Runk  was  mortally  wounded  near  the  first  cor- 
ner west  of  Fouquet's  Hotel.  Skirmishes  were  con- 
stantly in  progress,  and  a  detachment  which  at- 
tempted to  ford  the  river  five  miles  above,  was 
,  repulsed  with  loss  by  Capt.  Vaughan  of  the  militia. 
The  night  of  the  9th  was  dark  and  tempestuous, 
and  Major  McGlassin  of  the  15th  Infantry,  avail- 
ing himself  of  the  favorable  circumstances,  with  a 
party  of  fifty  men,  from  Ft.  Brown,  forded  the  i-iver 
and  assailed  a  detachment  of  three  hundred  British 
troops,  lying  on  the  bluff  opposite,  in  front  and  rear 


i 


LAKE      OHAMPLAIN. 


40 


with  tremendous  sliouts.    The  British  abandoned 
the  battery,  in  wild  precipitation,  and  McGhissin, 
after  spiking  their  guns,  returned  to  the  fort  with- 
out losing  a  single  man.     A  tradition  states   that 
one  of  the  intrepid  band  was  killed  by  the  British 
sentinel.     The  11th  September,  1814,  was  a  beau- 
tiful and  tran([uil  Sabljath.     Early  in  the  morning, 
discharges  of  cannon,  by  the  British  fleet  scaling 
their  guns   for  action,  were   heard,  and   soon    the 
upper  si)ars  of  the  vessels  were  discovered  over  the 
tree-tops,  moving  slowly  on  the  opposite  northern 
side  of  the  pi'nin^ula.     The  American  fleet  was  an- 
chored in  a  line  nearly  north  and  south,  extending 
from  Crab  Lsland  to  Cumberland  Head.     The  posi- 
tion was  selected  by   ^lacDonough  with   eminent 
skill  and    judgmi'nt.     Both  ends  of    his  line  were 
l)rotected  by  the  arrangement,  and  lying  somewhat 
inside  of  the  Point,  he  held  the  advantage  of  the 
Avind,  Avhen  the  British  fleet,  running  before  a  north- 
erly breeze,  changed  its  course,  and  attempted,  as 
was  necessary,  to  approach  him  from  a  southerly 
direction.     The  l^rig  Eagle,  Capt.  Henley,  of  twenty 
guns,  occupied  the  head  of  the  line.    The  flag-ship 
Saratoga,  twenty-six  guns,  lay  next;  then  in  suc- 
cession the  Ticonderogii,  Lieut.  Cassin,  seventeen 
guns,  and  the  sloop  Peble,  seven  guns.     The  ten 
gunboats   were   stationed   in   a  second  line.     The 
British    fleet    consisted   of    the    Confiance,   (Japt. 
Downie,  thirty-seven  guns;    Linnet,  Capt.  Pring, 
sixteen   guns;    the   sloop   Chub,    Lieut.    McGliee, 
seven  gnus,  and  Finch,  Lieut.  Hicks,  seven  guns, 
and  twelve  gunboats.    The  American  fleet  mounted 
eighty-six  guns,  manned    by  eight  hundred   and 
eighty-two  men :  the  British  fleet  carried  ninety-five 
guns,  with  an  aggregate  crew  of  more  than    one 

3 


i 


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50 


LxVKE      CIIAMPLAIN. 


iil' 


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I'       I 


thousand  men.  The  weight  of  metal,  and  calibre 
of  the  guns,  were  equally  favorable  to  the  British. 
Our  limited  space  precludes  the  attempt  at  a 
description  of  this  battle,  contested  with  a  heroic 
courage  and  sanguinary  carnage  that  have  few 
parallels  in  the  annals  of  naval  conflicts.  An  ample 
and  graphic  account  of  it  will  be  found  in  Palmer's 
Lake  Cham})lain.  Capt.  Downie  was  killed  early 
in  the  action ;  MacDonough  was  twice  stricken 
down ;  Capt.  Alexander,  of  the  British  marines, 
Lieut.  Paul,  midshipman  Gunn  and  boatswain 
Jackson  were  killed.  The  iVmerican  loss  embraced 
Lieut.  Gamble,  Lieut.  Stansbury,  who  was  cut  asun- 
der by  a  round  shot,  and  knocked  from  on  board 
the  Ticonderoga;  midshipman  Baldwin,  sailing 
master  Carter,  and  pilot  Joseph  Barron.  The  en- 
gagement continued  two  hours  and  a  half,  when 
the  British  ships  successively  struck  their  flags. 
The  gunboats,  after  having  surrendered,  effected 
tlieir  escape,  owing  to  the  fact  that  not  a  single 
mast  in  either  fleet  was  able  to  bear  canvass,  and 
the  American  gunljoats  were  engaged  in  rescuing 
tiic  crews  from  the  ( as  was  supposed, )  sinking 
British  vessels.  Crowds  of  anxious  si)ectators  lined 
the  Vermont  shores,  and  gathered  upon  the  adja- 
cent hills  and-headlands  of  New  York,  to  witness 
the  novel  and  fearful  spectacle.  The  battle  was 
ended;  but  many  gloomy  and  agitated  hours  elap- 
sed before  the  excited  masses  could  receive  authentic 
intelligence  of  the  glorious  result.  A  personal  friend 
of  MacDonough  informed  the  writer,  that  he  board- 
ed the  Saratoga  immediately  after  the  close  of  the 
battle,  when  the  blood  was  yet  unwashed  from  the 
decks,  and  the  horrid  evidence  of  the  strife  were 
not  removed ;    that  he  found  MacDorough  calmly 


1 


■I 

'X 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


51 


pacing  the  main  deck  Avithout  exhibiting  any  ap- 
pearance of  excitement  or  exultation. 

The  advance  of  the  British  fleet  was  the  signal 
for  the  opening  of  the  batteries  upon  the  American 
works,  and  their  assault  by  three  assailing  parties. 
The  attacks  at  the  upper  and  lower  bridges  were 
repulsedj  but  a  few  companies  succeeded  in  crossing 
the  Saranac  near  Pike's  cantonment,  where  they 
were  opposed  by  the  militia  under  Gen.  Mooers  and 
Gen.  Wight.  The  militia  retreated  nearly  to  Salmon 
river,  four  miles  south,  where,  being  joined  Ijy  par- 
ties of  Vermont  Volunteers,  and  Lieut.  Sumpter 
with  a  field  piece,  they  rallied  and  drove  back  the 
British.  One  company  of  the  7Gth  regiment  was 
bewildered  in  the  dense  pine  woods,  cut  off,  and 
every  man  either  captured  or  slain, with  their  com- 
mander, Ca]/t.  Purchase.  The  capture  of  the  fleet 
changed  the  entire  aspect  of  the  campaign,  and  ren- 
dered the  advance  of  Provost  alike  useless  and  im- 
practicable. Crowds  of  volunteers  and  militia  from 
V^ermont  and  all  the  northern  counties,  inflamed 
by  a  noble  onthusiam,  were  rushing  to  the  scene  iwul 
Avould  soon  envelope  the  British  army.  The  can- 
nonade was  maintained  bv  the  British  until  nii>ht, 
when,  under  its  mantle,  Provost  hurried  on  tlie 
retreat  with  his  baggage  and  artillery,  which  were 
hastily  followed  by  the  army.  Before  morniii:;'  the 
rear  guard  had  marched,  abandoning  a  vast  ([uan- 
tity  of  stores  and  munitions,  and  leaving  the  sick 
and  wounded  to  be  cared  for  by  the  humanity  of 
the  American  General.  Wild  and  extravagant  tales 
long  excited  the  credulous  in  that  region,  of  immense 
treasure  buried,  and  gold  and  silver  hidden  in  wells 
and  other  receptacles,  by  the  flying  enemy.  The 
common  sailors  and  marines,  slain  in  the  action,  of 
both  fleets,  were  buried  in  one  grave  on  Crab  Island. 


I 


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LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


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The  bodies  of  the  British  and  American  officers, 
received  from  their  respective  sliips,  were  borne  in 
a  solemn  procession  of  barges  to  the  shore,  and 
there  met  by  the  citizens  and  military,  bearing  the 
corpses  of  those  slain  on  the  land,  were  carried  to 
the  sepultures  and  deposited  in  honored  graves, 
with  equal  rites.  The  tcmb  of  Downie,  beneath 
the  dark  shadows  of  the  emblematic  pines,  is  the 
central  mound,  around  which  cluster  the  graves  of 
the  heroic  dead  of  kindred  nations.  Years  after- 
wards, the  generous  impulses  of  the  people  erected, 
withont  distinction  of  friend  and  foe,  a  commemo- 
rative stone  at  the  head  of  each  grave.  The  hand 
of  domestic  aftection  had  already  placed  a  marble 
slab  over  the  remains  of  Downie. 

The  village  of  Plattsburgh  has  suffend  severely 
from  several  destructive  fires,  but  has  arisen  from 
each  infliction  in  augmented  beauty  and  renova- 
ted vigor.  This  is  attested  by  the  massive  blocks 
of  new  stores,  and  manufactories;  its  elegant 
churches,  puljlic  buildings  and  fine  private  residen- 
ces. It  possesses  various  manufactories,  but  the 
predominant  industry  is  the  vast  lumbering  estab- 
lishments it  enil)raees.  The  water  poAver  afforded 
by  the  fSaranac,  on  and  contiguous  to  the  village,  is 
very  large,  and  is  chiefly  occui)ied  by  lumber-mills. 
The  mills  owned  or  worked  by  C.  F.  Norton  &  Co., 
contain  ten  gates,  and  average  in  the  active  season, 
running  day  and  night,  eighteen  thousand  pieces, 
or  one  hundred  and  eighty  thousand  feet.  An  im- 
mense amount  of  every  description  of  lumber,  fab- 
ricated by  tlie  numerous  mills  along  the  Saranac,  is 
also  shipped  at  Piattsburgh.  The  pieces  cut  at  the 
Plattsburgh  mills  alone  would  load  daily  two  canal 
boats.  Tiie  logs  destined  to  supply  these  mills  are 
cut  in  the  wilderness  and    floated,  by  a  wonderful 


t 

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I 


LAKE     CHAMPLAIN. 


hz 


i 


combination  of  energy  and  skill,  through  the  inte- 
rior lakes  and  down  the  Saranac,  a  distance  between 
eighty  and  ninety  miles.  Those  driven  through  to 
Plattsburgh  mills  are  estimated  to  average  yearly 
one  hundred  thousand  standard,  and  four  hundred 
thousand  by  count.  The  number  of  logs  transpor- 
ted by  the  Saranac  to  the  different  mills  above 
Plattsburgh  cannot  acurately  be  ascertained.  They 
probably  reach  in  an  average  of  years,  forty  thous- 
and standard,  which  may  be  computed  at  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  thousand  in  numbers.  The  driving 
of  logs  presents  a  novel  and  most  exciting  scene. 
Plunging  over  a  fall,  they  are  swallowed  up  for  the 
time  in  the  vortex  of  waters;  they  rush  along  rap- 
ids, cover  the  surface  of  the  river  in  jilaces  for  miles, 
but  a  jam,  tlie  accumulation  of  the  logs,  caused  by 
some  obstruction,  is  the  danger  most  necessary  to  be 
avoided.  A  small  army  of  trained  and  stalwart 
men  are  stationed  at  various  points,  at  which  this 
catastrophe  is  liable  to  hapi)en.  Every  log  must  be 
kept  afloat  in  the  current ;  the  stoppage  of  one  will 
often  arrest  the  progress  of  thousands,  and  when  a 
formidable  jam  is  once  formed,  it  can  only  be  broken 
up  ])y  vast  labor  and  expense.  The  feats  of  courage, 
strength  and  activity  of  these  men  is  often  amazing. 
Xothing  could  more  gratify  a  tourist  than  the 
op])ortunity  of  witnessing  this  operation. 

The  Saranjic,  above  Plattsburgh,  presents  a  con- 
stant succession  of  valuable  mill  privileges,  many  of 
which  are  occupied  by  large  and  important  sawing 
establishments.  •  The  processes  by  which  the  several 
proprietors  identify  aiul  select  their  own  logs  are 
curious  and  interesting.  The  logs,  when  cut  in  the 
forest,  are  impressed  with  the  special  mark  of  each 
owner,  rolled  promiscuously  into  the  river,  and  float 
down  in  a  mass.     Booms  are  constructed  at  each 


I 


54 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN". 


mill,  not  at  right  angles  with  the  stream,  but  length- 
wise on  each  side,  leaving  a  narrow  ehab;icl  for  the 
passage  of  the  logs.  Eacli  owner,  as  the  logs  rush 
through  this  channel,  seizes,  by  various  devices,  his 
own  proi)erty,  and  thrusts  it  within  his  boom. 

Various  other  objects  besides  those  we  have  indi- 
cated, in  Plattsburgh,  worthy  of  attention,  will 
amuse  and  interest  the  visitor.  Among  tbese  we 
may  enumerate  a  call  at  tlie  Catholic  Convent  and 
Nunnery,  a  visit  whicli  the  traveller  of  taste  and 
refinement  will  desire  to  again  and  again  repeat;  to 
the  Greenhouse  and  Vineyard  of  tlie  Messrs.  Bailey, 
and  a  stroll  to  the  retired  Cemetery  on  the  banks 
of  the  river.  The  stranger  will  instinctively  direct 
his  stei)s  to  the  military  graves:  wandering  from 
these,  he  will  find  the  last  resting  place  of  men  who 
where  not  only  eminent  in  the  section,  but  distin- 
guished in  the  state  and  nation.  Among  these  he 
may  read  the  names  upon  tlie  monumental  marbles 
ofZepheniah  Piatt,  Jonas  Piatt,  Benjamin  Mooers, 
John  Palmer,  William  Swetland  and  Lemuel  Stet- 
son. If  the  wanderer  loves  to  do  homage  to  early 
genius,  and  deplores  an  untimely  death,  he  will  be 
attracted  by  the  patlios  that  lingers  about  the  hum- 
ble grave  of  Lucretia  M.  Davidson.  Rowing  or 
sailing,  in  boats  always  ready  for  use,  and  fishing  if 
desired,  will  be  pleasant  recreations.  The  drives 
about  Plattsburgh  are  peculiarly  agreeable.  That 
on  the  plank  road  up  the  Saranac,  besides  the  op- 
portunity of  witnessing  the  driving  of  the  logs,  is 
particularly  attnictive,  by  the  romantic  character 
of  the  streams,  the  grandeur  of  the  great  falls,  eigh- 
teen miles  from  Plattsburgh,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
country.  A  plank  road  leading  to  the  State  Prison 
(sixteen  miles)  at  Dannemora  branches  atElsineur, 
The  visitor  will  be  interested  by  an  inspection  of 


igth- 
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rush 
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1 


Lion  Mountain.  Chazy  Lake. 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


55 


the  prison  and  workshops— guides  are  always  fur- 
nished by  the  courteous  warden  or  agent, — and 
by  the  exploration  of  the  iron  ore  bed. 

Good  accommodations  will  be  afforded  by  hotels 
at  different  villages  along  the  Saranac,  and  at  Dan- 
nemora;  the  table  of  the  Clinton  House  is  always 
supplied  with  the  choice  trout  from  Chazy  Lake. 
Dannemora  is  situated  at  an  elevation  above  Lake 
Champlain  of  almost  seventeen  thousand  feet;  but 
the  ascent  from  Plattsburgh  is  scarcely  perceptible. 
The  view  from  this  height  is  eminently  grand  and 
beautiful.  A  wide  expanse  of  Champlain  ;  the  rich 
intervening  country  ;  tlie  silver  thread  of  the  Sara- 
nac ;  the  long  sierra  of  the  Green  Mountains,  and 
countless  peaks  of  tlie  xVdirondacks  are  all  embraced 
in  the  landscape.  Dannemora  is  the  direct  route 
to  Cliazy  Lake,  (live  miles),  a  lovely  sheet  of  water, 
and  a  favorite  resort  to  the  sportsman.  It  is  no 
where  surpassed  b}'  the  quantity  and  exquisite 
quality  of  the  fish  it  yields.  In  exceptional  cases, 
trout  weighing  twenty  pounds  have  been  taken  in 
its  waters.  The  road  to  the  Lake  was  built  by  the 
State,  and  is  always  in  good  condition.  The  Meader 
Hotel,  an  excellent  house,  stands  directly  on  the 
shore  of  the  lake.  At  the  termination  of  the  road, 
in  close  proximity  to  Chazy  Lake,  stands  "  Lion 
Mountain,"  a  prominent  land-mark,  visible  through 
an  extended  area,  which  is  much  admired  for  the  sin- 
gularity of  its  form  and  position.  Bradley's  Pond, 
lying  west  ( two  miles  )  is  reached  by  a  comfortable 
road.  A  pathway  extends  (six  miles)  to  Chateau- 
guy  Lake.  Chazy  Lake  ( five  miles,  by  one  and 
one  half  miles  in  its  widest  part)  is  greatly  celebra- 
ted for  its  gentle  and  picturesque  beauties,  and  its 
attraction  to  the  sportsman.  The  season  for  troll- 
ing extends  from  about  the  1st  of  May  to  the  mid- 


i| 


f 


I     t 


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El! 


5G 


LAKE      CIIAMPLAIN. 


ii 


i 


ly  If 


i 


die  of  June;  when  fly  fishing  begins  and  continues 
through  the  season.  Lion  Mountain  is  about  five 
thousand  feet  liiah.    It  received  its  name  from  a 


•n' 


;f,;: 


striking  simihtude  in  form  it  pre.sents  to  "  the  King 
of  beasts." 

Trent  Falls,  an  attractive  locality  nine  miles 
from  Plattsburgh,  is  reached  by  a  pleasant  drive. 
The  tourist  will  find  an  exciting  occupation  in  trac- 
ing and  identifying  the  various  scenes  of  historic 
interest,  we  have  described  with  so  much  minute- 
ness, for  the  purpose  of  aiding  his  researches. 

The  Au  Sable  Chasm,  one  of  the  most  wonderful 
works  of  Xature  in  the  countrv,  niav  be  visited  from 
Plattsburgh  by  a  drive  of  about  twehe  miles,  over 
a  road  which  for  several  miles  runs  directly  on  the 
margin  of  the  lake,  and  by  fording  the  Au  Sable 
river,  if  preferred ;  or  the  Chasm  may  be  reached 
by  steamer  to  Port  Kent,  and  thence  three  miles  by 
coaches  which  always  meet  the  boats.  In  an  excur- 
sion to  the  Au  Sauble  Chasm,  the  drive  might  be 
pleasantly  diversified  h^n  circuit  over  Ilallock,  or 
by  a  visit  to  the  mouth  of  the  Au  Sable  river. 
These  localities  we  shall  describe  in  another  connec- 
tion. 

A  trip  from  Plattsburgh  to  Port  Henry  by 
the  steamers,  and  return  the  same  day,  will  afford 
the  tourist  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  most  inter- 
esting portion  of  the  lake  and  its  scenery.  We  have 
space  to  refer  to  only  one  other  drive  in  this  con- 
nection, the  circuit  of  Cumberland  Head,  by  a  line 
road,  skirting  the  lake,  of  which  an  extensive  view  is 
constantly  presented.  The  road  i)asses  the  farm 
granetdtoMacDonough  by  the  State  of  Vermont,  the 
light-house  at  the  point,  and  the  place  where  Bur- 
goyne  first  assembled  and  organized  his  army  in  1777. 

The   trip  of  the  steamer  A.  Williams,   between 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


67 


Plattsburgh  and  St.  Albans,  affords  to  the  tourist 
one  of  the  most  delightful  excursions  on  the  lake. 
Leaving  Plattsburgh  in  the  morning,  she  first  stops 
at  Gorden's  wharf,  where  passengers  land  who  intend 
visiting  the  Iodine  Springs,  three  miles  distant  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  island.  These  springs, 
which  are  becoming  highly  celebrated,  are  beauti- 
fully situated,  overlooking  Keeler's  Bay,  among  the 
finest  fishing  grounds  in  the  region,  and  furnish, 
by  the  qualities  of  the  water,  its  quiet  seclusion, 
and  the  commodiousness  of  its  boarding-houses,  a 
most  agreeable  resort  to  those  in  pursuit  of  health 
or  pleasure.  The  proprietor  of  these  springs  is  Mr. 
Warren  Corbin. 

The  steamer  has  sufficient  capacity  for  the  trans- 
portation of  horses  and  carriages,  and  stops  at  vari- 
ous landings  on  both  islands,  Xortli  and  South 
Hero.  Visitors  are  thus  enabled,  with  their  own 
conveyances,  to  enjoy  drives  through  a  enltivated  and 
beautiful  countr}',  and  over  roads  that  :,re  no  where 
surpassed  in  their  singular  excellence.  These  drives 
may  bo  extended  by  the  different  ferries  to  the  Isle 
La  Mott.  This  is  a  pleasant  spot,  where  the  site 
of  tlie  old  French  fort  La  Motlie  mav  be  traced.  On 
the  north  end  of  the  island  is  a  light-house. 

In  pursuing  this  route,  we  will  venture  to  tra^^:!- 
cribe  a  notice  of  it  ])V  the  writer,  puljlished  manv 
5 ears  ago.  '*  Suddenly  our  little  steamer  headed 
landward,  and  for  a  moment  we  feared  she  must  be 
crushed  upon  the  rocks;  Ijut  presently  we  enter  a 
narrow  passage,  whicli  had  been  hidden  from  our 
view  by  a  projecting  tongue  of  land.  After  tliread- 
ing  for  a  mile  or  two  the  intricate  channel,  Avliieh 
separates  North  and  South  Hero, — beautiful  islands 
that  are  the  garden  spots  of  Vermont, — we  deljouch 
upon  an  expanse  of  water,  equal  almost  in  expanse 


I.,  * 


I;     i   i 


lit 

ti  : 


68 


LAKE      CIIAMPLAIX. 


*  -1. 


to  the  broadest  portion  of  tlie  Itike.  Here  ti  scene 
bursts  upon  us,  in  a  vision  of  unsurpassed  beauty 
and  splendor,  like  the  enchantments  of  fairy  land. 
This  broad  sheet  of  quiet  and  secluded  water  is  en- 
circled in  tlie  arms  of  the  mainland  and  the  two 
Ileros.  Innumerable  islands  gem  its  bosom  in 
every  variety  of  form  and  aspect :  t\iere  a  dark, 
froAvning  ruck;  this  glowing  in  eniuraivl  verdure, 
and  that  smiling  in  culture  and  loveliness.  A  wide 
district  of  rich  and  luxuriant  agricultural  territory, 
embellished  bv  vi]lac:es  and  elitterine:  with  farm 
houses  and  villages,  spread  in  a  beautiful,  undula- 
ting acclivity  from  the  shore  of  the  lake  to  the  dis- 
tant range  of  mountains,  which,  like  a  dark  and 
majestic  frame-work,  surrounds  and  limits  the  scen- 
erv.  This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  as  it  is 
among  the  most  sequestered,  regions  of  A\>rmont ; 
but  is  seldom  pressed  by  the  foot  of  the  traveller, 
Avhosc  eye  rarely  glances  upon  the  exquisite  beauty 
of  the  scene,  except  as  he  is  borne  through  it  upon 
the  wings  of  steam.''  The  memory  of  the  classic 
tourist,  as  he  traverses  Lake  Clnimplain,  often  re- 
verts to  the  archipelago  of  the  ^Egean,  but  now^iere 
is  the  assimilation  so  strong  as  in  the  section  we  are 
now  contemplating.  The  terminus  of  the  passage 
is  at  Belamaqueen,  or  St.  Albans  Bay,  tlirec  miles 
from  the  village  of  St.  Albans ;  from  whence  stages 
run  re2:ularlv,  in  connection  with  the  boat.  The 
first  canal  boat  that  reached  New  York,  through 
the  Champlain  Canal,  was  built  and  owned  at  this 
port.  • 

We  now  return  in  our  staunch  little  steamer  and 
resume  our  notices  of  Plattsburgh.  The  hotels  of 
Plattsburgh  have  established  high  reputations.  The 
Cumberland  House  and  Withevill's  hotel  are  both 
excellent  and  convenient  houses,  spacious  in  their 


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Fouquet's  Hotel,  Plattsburgh,  N.  Y. 


LAKE      CHAM  PLAIN. 


59 


arrangements,  and  calculated  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  a  large  number  of  guests.  Fouquet's  Hotel 
has  been  long  a  prominent  institution  of  its  kind, 
and  familiarily  known,  for  more  than  seventy  years 
to  the  travelling  communitv.  This  familv,  throuuh 
this  long  period,  have  been  accomplished  hotel  keep- 
ers, l)oth  from  education  and  hereditary  (qualities. 
Their  American  progenitor  came  to  this  country 
with  La  Fayette,  and  remaining,  opened  a  public 
house  in  Albany.  His  son,  John  L.  Fouquet,  in 
1798,  erected  an  liotel  near  the  site  occupied  by  the 
present  beautiful  edifice.  That  building, — one  of 
first  class  for  the  period, — was  burned  during  the 
siege  of  1814,  by  hot  shot  from  the  fort.  lu  1815, 
a  second  house  was  erqcted  on  the  same  ground,  with 
an  improvement  both  in  style  and  dimensions. 
This,  by  repeated  additions,  had  grown  into  a  large 
and  commodious  establishment,  but  in  June,  1864, 
it  also  was  consumed.  With  an  energy  unsubdued 
by  this  calamity  and  with  unfaltering  enterprise, 
the  Messrs.  D.  L.  Fouquet  &  Son  commenced  the 
erection  of  the  third  edifice,  and  the  next  year,  on 
the  same  day  in  June  in  which  the  last  had  been 
burned,  they  opened  a  new  and  splendid  hotel  for 
the  reception  of  guests.  Such  an  invincible  spirit 
claims  a  success,  which  we  trust  vill  be  achieved. 
The  new  building  is  an  elegant  and  spacious  struc- 
ture, not  less  imposing  by  its  dimensions  and  posi- 
tion, than  attractive  by  the  novelty  and  beauty  of 
its  architecture.  It  is  capable  of  accomodating  one 
hundred  and  fifty  guests,  and  with  a  style  and  ele- 
gance that  is  always  satisfactory.  The  rooms  are 
large  and  well  ventilated,  and  supplied  with  every 
promotive  of  comfort  and  enjoyment.  The  grounds 
and  flower  garden,  animate  with  beauty  and  redo- 
lent with  fragrance,  afford  a  most  agreeable  retreat. 


;!!« 


■: 


1 


I 


GO 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


6''- 


ft 


The  broad  piazzas  on  two  sides  of  the  house,  and 
the  ]n*omenade  upon  the  roof,  afford  a  wide  and  de- 
lightful view  of  the  lake,  the  battle  ground,  the  vil- 
lage, the  surrounding  country,  and  the  mountains 
on  every  side.  This  house,  by  its  beautiful  and 
spacious  grounds,  and  quiet,  furnishes  peculiarly 
safe  and  pleasant  accommodations  for  the  residence 
of  ladies  and  children,  during  the  summer. 

The  large  brick  stables,  standing  on  the  grounds, 
and  erected  at  a  cost  of  $0,000,  will  delight  the  ama- 
teur in  horses  l)y  their  perfect  and  elaborate  arrange- 
ments. Thev  are  intended  for  the  accommodation 
of  guests  who  bring  tiieir  own  horses  and  carriages, 
as  well  as  to  furnish  teams  for  rides  and  excursions. 
A  livery  is  attached  to  the  ho/ise.  (See  appendix.) 
Other  excellent  Livery  stables  are  always  prepared 
to  supply  any  demand, 

The  second  edifice  flourished  in  the  palmy  times 
of  travelling,when  men  journeyed  at  a  rational  speed 
to  see  and  enjoy  the  country  and  the  incidents  of 
the  road.  Then  the  Post  Coach  occupied  two  days 
between  Ogdensburgh  and  Plattsburgh  ;  but  in  the 
romance  of  the  journey  was  the  transit  of  the  Cha- 
teaugay  woods,  along  the  government  road  a  dis- 
tance of  forty  miles,  through  nearly  an  unbroken 
wilderness,  where  the  traveller  might  frequently 
see  deer  gazing  from  the  bushes,  and  occasionally  a 
wolf  prowling  along  the  road.  In  those  days,  when 
a  delicious,  fresh  salmon  'was  in  request,  Fouquet 
had  onlv  to  examine  his  seine  at  the  foot  of  the 
mill-race,  or  that  failing,  to  select  a  victim  and 
spear  him  from  a  school  gamboling  beneath  the 
lower  bridge. 


I 

I 


I 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


61 


BURLINGTON 


We  will  now  return  to  Burlington,  and  then  re- 
sume tlie  thread  of  our  narrative.  The  natural 
position  of  this  place  is  so  perfect,  that  we  can 
scarcely  conceive  how  it  could  be  improved  Ijy  the 
handy  work  of  nature.  The  lake,  studded  by  its 
innumerable  islands  and  headlands,  lies  before  it 
like  a  broad  picture  ;  distant  groups  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks  rising  to  the  vision  far  in  the  interior  beyond  ; 
the  Green  Mountains  stretching  along  its  eastern 
sky,  and  the  city  ascending,  by  a  gentle  acclivity, 
which  reveals  these  objects  to  every  eye,  combine 
to  render  the  panorama  complete  and  entrancing. 
Burlington  is  rapidly  expanding  in  business  and 
population.  It  has  a  lumber  market,  the  growth  of 
a  few  years,  second  in  extent  to  only  one  or  two  in 
the  country.  It  presents  a  large  space  of  wharAige, 
extending  along  its  entire  front,  with  an  immense 
iirea  of  new  ground  wrested  from  the  lake  and  filled 
in  at  a  great  expense.  The  planing  mills  is  said 
to  be  probably  the  most  extensive  in  the  world.  The 
various  work-shops  and  mills  connected  with  the 
lumber  yards  are  worthy  inspection,  as  well  as  the 
otlier  varied  and  extensive  manufactories  in  the 
city.  The  University  of  Vermont,  to  which  the 
Agricultural  College  has  been  recently  connected,  is 
tlie  prominent  feature  of  Burlington.  Its  buildings 
occupy  an  eminence    that  presents  a  wide   view. 


i.n. 


I 


G2 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


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w 


The  altitude  of  Taliawas,  or  Mt.  Marcy,  has  been 
ascertained  from  its  observatory.  In  1825,  La 
Fayette  laid  the  corner  stone  of  its  central  edifice. 
The  University  is  now  prosperous,  and  has  estab- 
lished a  high  standing,  from  the  services  of  a  long 
line  of  eminent  men  in  its  faculty.  The  public 
buildings  in  the  city  are  numerous,  and  many  of 
them  erected  in  a  superior  style.  Among  tlie  recent 
structures  are  the  ]^,Ierchants  National  Bank  and  the 
Insurance  Buildings  of  the  Messrs.  Wires,  the  seat 
of  one  of  the  most  extensive,  best  conducted,  and 
reliable  Insurance  Agencies  in  the  country,  will  be 
particularly  noticed. 

The  Depots  c»f  the  Eutland  and  Burlington  and 
Central  roads  are  elegant  and  spacious  buildings. 
A  change  in  the  railroads  has  temporarily  suspend- 
ed the  occupation  of  the  former.  The  large  and 
beautiful  ground  of  Col,  Cannon  are  continually 
opened  to  visitors. 

The  drives  and  excursions  in  th.o  vicinity  are 
numerous  and  pleasant.  We  may  particularize 
a  drive  through  "  Howard's  Summit,"  a  visit  to  the 
ship-yard  at  Shelburn  harbor,  and  Proctor's  private 
yard, — a  stroll  in  the  green-house  and  nursery  of 
Mr.  A.  Taylor, — a  ride  to  Mallett's  Bay,  that  always 
secures  line  sport, — and  where  should  be  examined 
the  quarry  of  variegated  marble,  a  rare  and  beautiful 
production.  Here  is  a  good  Hotel.  A  sojourn  in 
Burlington  would  want  its  crowning  interest,  with- 
out a  pilgrimage  being  made  to  the  grave  and  monu- 
ment of  Ethan  Allen,  in  the  Green  Mount  Cemetery. 
Here,  and  in  the  Old  Burial  Ground  in  Burlington, 
are  the  graves  of  many  distinguished  men.  We 
may  enumerate  among  them  James  Marsh,  the 
eminent  Metaphysical  writer;  Zadock  Thomspon, 
the  Historian  and  Naturalist ;  Joseph  Torrey,  the 


\ 


TVlres*  Insuranoe  SulldlnsT* 
Burllnficton,  ^t. 


^ 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


G3 


profound  Greek  scholar,  and  the  distinguished  Pre- 
sident, John  Wheeler. 

The  magnificent  water  works  of  Burlington  will 
attract  the  attention  of  the  visitor.  The  "  Lake 
View  Cemetery,"  a  beautiful  and  extensive  "  City  of 
the  Dead,'*'  lias  been  recently  arranged  and  dedicated. 
It  has  been  located  with  great  taste  and  judgment, 
directly  upon  the  shore  of  the  lake,  from  which  it 
ascends  in  a  graceful  slope;  The  stranger  will  find 
this  one  of  the  most  interesting  rides  in  the  vicinity 
of  Burlington. 

The  visitor  will  not  omit  to  inspect  the  Custom 
House  and  Marine  Hospital,  now  used  as  an  Or- 
phan's home.  The  hotels  at  Burlington  are  excel- 
lent. The  American  is  an  old  and  highly  esteemed 
first-class  establishment,  and  occupies  a  part  of  the 
former  residence  of  Gov.  Van  Ness.  (See  appendix.) 
The  Van  Ness  is  a  new  house,  spacious,  elegantly 
arranged,  and  superior  in  all  its  appointments,  and  is 
calculated  to  afford  every  comfort  and  accommoda- 
tion to  the  traveller.  The  Lawrence  House  is  a 
superior  house,  and  will  be  especially  used  as  a 
summer  boarding-house. 

Among  the  excursions  from  Burlington,  which  will 
merit  the  attention  of  the  tourist,  none  will  be 
found  more  pleasant  and  gratifying  than  a  passage 
across  the  lake  to  Port  Kent,  and  a  visit  to  the  Au- 
sable  Chasm  and  Kceseville.  Leaving  Burlington 
by  the  morning  boat,  the  party  will  find  carriages 
in  attendance  at  Port  Kent,  (or  they  may  transport 
their  own  by  the  steamer,)  to  convey  them  to  both 
places;  and  after  a  day  of  exciting  enjoyment,  may 
return  to  Burlington  by  the  evening  steamer. 
After  viewing  the  stupendous  operations  of  nature 
at  the  Chasm,  they  may  expatiate  among  the  trees 
in  the  pleiisures  of  a  pic-nic,  or  an  excellent  meal 


\\ 


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I. 


I 


64 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN". 


[i 

i 


will  be  found  at  the  "  Chasm  House "  near  by.  If 
a  visit  to  Keeseville  is  embraced  in  the  programme, 
they  Avill  reach  there  by  a  ride  of  only  two  miles, 
over  a  fine  road, — calling  at  the  Rolling  Mill,  one 
of  the  most  perfectly  appointed  in  the  country,  view- 
ing just  below  it  a  beautiful  fall,  and  have  the  en- 
joyment of  the  comforts  and  luxuries  of  the  superior 
hotels  of  this  village.  The  varied  and  peculiar 
manufactories  should  claim  examination. 

We  learn  that  arrangements  have  been  made  by 
which  passengers  through  Lake  Champlain  may 
procure  tickets  at  any  principal  ticket  office,  pass- 
ing them  from  Plattsburgh  to  Ausable  Chasm  and 
return  for  $1.50.  And  also,  that  parties  between 
Lake  Champlain  and  the  White  Mountains,  may 
obtain  similar  tickets  at  the  same  places,  which 
will  enable  them  to  stop  over  at  Burlington,  and 
with  only  the  detention  of  a  single  day,  to  visit 
Plattsburgh  and  the  Chasm.  A  short  increase  of 
time,  and  slight  extra  charge,  will  afford  an  opportu- 
nity of  visiting  Keeseville. 


© 


® 


® 


® 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


e5 


0 


MT.  MANSFIELD 
AND    CAMEL'S     HUMP. 


( 


® 


Eiich  of  these  summits,  the  two  highest  in  Ver- 
mont, is  a  conspicuous  object,  in  view  from  Bur- 
lington. They  may  be  reached  by  pleasant  drives 
from  this  place  ;  but  the  most  convenient  method 
is  by  cars  to  the  different  points  on  the  railroad 
from  which  they  are  accessible.  Leaving  Burling- 
ton from  the  splendid  Central  depot,  we  pass  Wi- 
nooski  Falls,  which  may  be  regarded  a  suburb  of  the 
city.  The  tourist  seeking  Mt.  Mansfield,  may  stop 
at  Essex  Junction,  8  miles,  where  coaches  will  be 
found  to  convey  him  to  ITndeihill,  from  whence  he 
can  easily  reach  the  mountain  ;  or  he  may  continue 
twenty-two  miles,  to  Waterbury.  This  village  is 
agreeable  as  a  summer  residence,  and  in  convenient 
distance  to  Mt.  Mansfield,  Camel's  Hump,  Bolton 
Falls  and  other  points  of  interest,(Waterburynouse.) 
Stages  leave  this  station  for  Stowe  (ten  miles)  on 
the  arrival  of  the  trains.  This  village  is  a  favorite 
summer  retreat.  It  is  eight  miles  from  the  top  of 
Mfc.  Mansfield,  which  is  reached  by  stages,  over  a 
good  and  secure  carriage  road.  Interesting  excur- 
sions are  secured  by  drives  to  Bolton  Falls,  Moss  Glen 
Falls,  Smugglers'  Xotch,  and  other  places.  (Mt, 
Mansfield  House,  see  appendix.)  The  Smuggler's 
Notch  is  associated  with  many  stirring  traditions 


ti 


66 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


of  a  lawless  period,  to  which  its  lofty  precipices  and 
wild  scenery  eminently  conform.  Beyond  this  gorge, 
in  a  dense,  gloomy  forest,  the  explorer  will  discover 
the  "  Mammoth  Spring,"  bursting  out  of  the  side  of 
Sterling  Mountain,  in  a  large  stream.  West  of  the 
Notch,  on  the  northern  spur  of  Mansfield,  lies  the 
"  Lake  of  the  Clouds,"  one  of  the  highest  bodies  of 
water  in  New  England.  The  Glen  Moss  Falls  is 
one  of  the  wildest  and  most  beautiful  scenes  in  this  • 
region  of  romance  and  beauty. 

Mansfield  Mountain  derived  its  name  from  the 
Town  of  Mansfield,  in  which  it  was  situated. 
The  town  has  been  discontinued.  The  moun- 
tain exhibits  three  summits,  designated  the 
Chin,  the  Nose,  and  the  Forehead,  from  a  fan- 
cied resemblance  to  the  human  profile.  The  ' 
Chin,  the  highest  of  these  peaks,  is  four  thousand 
three  hundred  and  forty-eight  feet  high.  Altliough 
more  than  a  thousand  feet  less  than  Tahawas  in 
height,  Mansfield,  from  the  peculiarity  of  its  posi- 
tion, commands  a  far  more  extended  landscape. 
The  vision  embj'aces  the  Champlain  Valley,  and  the 
lake,  with  the  far-distant  Adirondacks  in  the  West. 
The  Montreal  Mountain  is  visible  with  the  naked 
eye,  and  it  is  stated  that  steamers  are  discerned,with 
the  aid  of  a  glass,  upon  the  St.  Lawrence.  The 
clearly  defined  outline  of  the  White  Mountains, 
sixty  miles  away,  may  be  seen  along  the  eastern  sky, 
with  all  the  intervening  mountains,  rivers  and 
valleys.  All  this  combination  of  diversified  scenery 
produces  an  effect  indescribably  impressive  and 
magnificent.  The  mountain,  in  its  winding  ascent, 
presents  scenes  of  infinite  beauty  and  grandeur. 
The  access  to  the  summit  has  been  rendered  con- 
venient by  the  construction  of  a  good  road,  at  a 
heavy  expense.      Passengers  are  conducted  in  a 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


67 


coach  and  six  from  the  Mansfield  House  to  the 
Summit  House.  A  temporary  stop  will  be  made  at 
the  Half- Way  House,  where  a  large  spring,  bursting 
from  the  side  of  the  mountain,  in  an  impetuous  vol- 
ume, may  be  enjoyed.  From  this  point  to  the  Summit 
House  is  two  miles.  Near  the  hotel,  you  will  catch, 
farther  to  the  west,  the  first  view  of  the  "  Old  Man 
of  the  Mountain,"  whose  lineaments  are  quite  well 
defined.  The  Summit  House  is  spacious  and  con- 
venient and  capable  of  holding  one  hundred  guests. 
It  is  situated  near  the  Nose.  This  hotel  and  the 
road  have  been  built  Ijy  the  proprietors  of  Mans- 
field House.  (See  appendix.)  Both  are  well  kept 
hostelries,  and  together  are  adapted  to  the  accom- 
modation of  five  hundred  visitors.  The  Geological 
developments  at  the  top  of  Mount  Mansfield,  possess 
the  highest  interest. 


'i  i 


i 


Camel's  Hump. — The  change,  from  the  rich  po- 
etical name  of  Leon  Couchant,  applied  by  the 
French  nomenclature  to  this  peak,  to  its  present 
unfortunate  appellation,  Ave  have  mentioned. 
Camel's  Hump  is  four  thousand  eighty-three  feet 
high,  and  second  only  among  the  Green  Mountains 
in  altitude  to  Mount  Mansfield.  It  stands  out  in 
bold  relief,  and  with  an  imposing  attitude,  from 
the  range.  Ridley  Station, — (North  Duxbury,  P. 
0.,) — twenty-five  miles  from  Burlington,  is  three 
from  the  mountain,  and  the  most  convenient  point  of 
access.  Carriages  convey  passengers  from  this  sta- 
tion three  miles  up  the  mountain,  and  from  that 
point  the  ascent  is  made  on  foot  or  upon  horses. 
"  Near  the  summit  is  a  building,  where  shelter  and 
refreshments  may  be  had."  The  peak  is  formed  of 
naked  rocks,  hurled  together  in  chaotic  masses. 
From  this  lo^ty  observatory  the  eye  ranges  over  the 


1^ 


I.  3 

■:4 


68 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIN. 


wide  view,  unobstructed  by  forests  or  mountain 
tops.  The  prospect  from  Camel's  Hump  is  very 
similar  and  scarcely  secondary  to  that  unfolded  to 
the  observer  at  Mansfield  Mountain. 


•  •• 


Vermont  and  Canada   Railroad. 


We  now  take  a  new  departure  from  the  depot  at 
Burlington.  The  train  passes,  soon  after  leaving, 
througli  a  deep  cut  in  the  sand  bluff,  eighty-five 
feet  deep  and  about  twenty-five  rods  in  length. 
This  opening  has  revealed  to  the  geologist  a  most 
attractive  field  for  examination.  After  passing  this 
cut,  we  enter  a  magnificent  and  tasteful  tunnel, 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long.  At  the  entrance 
it  is  nineteen  feet  high,  and  in  some  parts  sixteen  ft. 
wide.  It  is  built  with  brick,  faced  at  the  entrance 
by  arches  of  black  limestone.  In  excavating  for 
this  tunnel  a  live  toad  was  discovered  in  "a small 
smootli  cavity  "  in  the  sand,  eighty  feet  from  the 
surface.  AVhen  found  it  was  in  a  torpid  state,  but 
soon  recovered  animation,  and  lived  six  months. 
Its  skin  is  preserved.  (Vermont  Geology.)  Winoos- 
ki  village  (two  miles)  is  a  thriving  manufacturing 
place,  on  the  vast  power  at  the  Winooski  Falls. 
The  tourist  will  enjoy,  as  the  train  slowly  crosses  the 
high  bridges  over  this  stream, — now  rushing  through 
deep  gorges ;  now  turbulently  dashing  down  rugged 
precipices,  and  again  quietly  winding  along  lovely 
valley, — some  of  the  most  beautiful  scenery  in  Ver- 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


60 


mont.  The  Winooski,  in  1808,  was  the  scene  of  an 
event  that  aroused  the  deepest  sensation.  A  party 
of  Custom  house  officers  attempted  to  seize  a  smug- 
gling beat  called  the  Black  Snake,  lying  in  the 
river.  The  smugglers  resisted,  and  killed  two  of  the 
officers.  Subsequently  one  of  the  crew  was  convict- 
ed of  the  murder,  and  was  executed  at  Burlington. 
This  whole  region,  at  that  time,  was  filled  with  vio- 
lence and  outrage.  Armed  bands  of  smugglers 
openly  traversed  the  country,  trampling  on  the  laws 
and  putting  the  power  of  the  government  at  defi- 
ance. We  pass  rapidly  over  a  fine  track  through  Col- 
chester,Milton  and  Georgia,  in  the  midst,  generally, 
of  a  highly  cultivated  and  interesting  country* 
In  Milton  a  striking  curiosity,  the  Great  Falls  on 
the  Lamoille  river,  should  be  visited.  The  descent 
of  the  water  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  in  fifty 
rods.  Near  the  Georgia  station,  the  traveller  will 
notice  a  remarkable  bridge  over  the  Lamoille,  form- 
ed by  three  spans  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
each, — erected  at  an  expense  of  $70,000.  The  entire 
trip  to  St.  Albans  (13  miles)  is  singularly  agreeable 
and  attractive. 


1 


.;  { 


ST.     ALBANS 


ji  ' 


Is  among  the  most  delightful  villages,  and  attrac- 
tive resorts  in  Vermont,  and  is  equally  conspicuous 
for  the  high  toned  refinement  and*  culture  of  its 
people.  The  village  is  situated  about  three  miles 
from  the  lake,  and  upon  a  plain  four  hundred  feet 
above  it.  To  an  observer  looking  forth  towards 
the  west  from  Aldis  Hill,  or  the  Belleveu  Moun- 


70 


LAKE      CHA3IPLAIN. 


•K 


i 


:m 


\i 

ii 


tain,  a  landscape  is  revealed  that  the  pencil  of  no 
artist  can  adequately  portray.  Our  unwaveriig  ex- 
pression of  admiration  in  describing  the  scenery  of 
Champlain  may  lead  readers,  whose  eyes  have  not 
rested  on  the  beautiful  visions,  that  we  are  betrayed 
into  the  rhapsodies  of  an  enthusiast.  We  may  only 
reply  that  while  the  surveys  that  meet  the  eye  of  the 
tourist  are  ever  varying  and  fresh,  they  will  main- 
tain one  uniformity, — their  common  characteristics 
of  grandeur  and  beauty.  © 

The  public  edifices  that  adorn  St.  Albans  are  of 
a  high  order;  and  the  private  dwellings  are  often 
elegant.  Here  are  collected  the  business  offices  of 
numerous  railroads,  which  are  guided  mainly  by  the 
intelligence  and  energy  of  residents  of  St.  Albans. 
This  is  the  residence  of  Hon.  J.  Gregory  Smith, 
who  is  at  the  head  of  a  vast  railroad  local  combina- 
tion, and  President  of  the  JNorthern  Pacific  R.  11.  It 
lias  a  fine  station  house  and  freight  depot,  on  a 
magnificent  scale ;  but  a  stranger  visiting  the  bust- 
ling spot  on  a  market  day  would  deem  it  scarcely 
sufficient  for  the  business  which  concentrates  there. 
He  will  be  astonished  at  the  enormous  amount  of 
dairy  products  exported  from  week  to  week ;  and 
Vthen  he  reflects  that  tiiis  is  but  a  single  depart- 
ment, stimulated  by  the  agriculture  of  the  region, 
may  form  some  conception  of  its  vast  productions, — 
of  the  macjnitude  of  the  busines:j  of  which  these  roads 
are  the  channel.  The  cemetery  of  St.  Albans  is 
especially  hallowed  by  the  ashes  of  the  venerated 
dead,  among  whom  we  may  mention,  Asa  Aldis, 
AVorthington  Smith,  Benjamin  Swift,  John  Smith, 
and  the  sweet  poetess,  Charlotte  Emily  Fay. 

Main  street,  a  long  and  spacious  avenue,  orna- 
mented by  splendid  stores,  the  park  and  vorkshops, 
are  all  attractive  objects.     The  elegant  mansion  of 


$1 


• 


: 


I 


LAKE      C'HAMPLAIX. 


71 


• 


• 


Gov.  Smith,  occupying  an  eminence  east  of  the  vil- 
lage, is  a  conspicuous  feature  in  the  beauty  of  the 
place.  St.  Albans  has  been  unpleasantly  notorious, 
for  two  public  events  ;  a  raid  from  Canada  upon  it 
by  a  party  of  rebels  during  the  late  war,  and  subse- 
quently it  was  made  the  central  point  of  a  recent 
Fenian  movement.  The  Weldon  House,  located 
near  the  depot,  and  contiguous  to  the  Weldon 
Spring,  from  whicli  it  derives  its  name,  is  in  every 
respect  a  first-class"  hotel.  It  is  pleasantly  situated ; 
contains  more  than  two  hundred  rooms,  airy  and 
large ;  and  is  distingui,:hed  for  the  general  superi- 
ority of  its  appointments  and  modern  elegau'^es. 

Stages  run  regularly  from  St.  All)ansto  Sheldon 
(nine  miles,)  in  connection  with  the  hotels,  situated 
among  the  celebrated  mineral  waters,  of  that  locali- 
ty, known  as  the  Missisquoi  Springs.  The  great 
number  of  these  springs, — thirteen  being  clustered 
in  an  area  of  a  single  acre, — the  diversity  of  their 
properties,  and  sanitary  reputation,  combined  with 
the  beauty  of  the  region,  renders  the  place  a  very 
favorite  resort  to  the  invalid  and  tourist.  The 
hotels  are  good  and  some  of  them  spacious  and  ele- 
gant. (The  Missisquoi  Hotel.)  The  Missis(|Uoi 
Spring  Hotel  is  a  first-class  house,  and  pleasantly 
situated  on  an  eminence  overlooking  a  magnificent 
landscape. 

Sheldon,  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  Missis(pioi 
river.  Near  this  village  is  Central  Spring,  some- 
what-similar in  its  qualities  to  the  Missiscpioi  water. 
The  Vermont  Spring  is  a  new  and  valuable  spring. 
The  Sheldon  Spring  lies  about  two  miles  from  Shel- 
don village.  Several  excellent  hotels  have  been 
constructed  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors  at 
these  springs.  The'most  prominent  of  these  are 
the  Bellevuo  and  Vermont,  at  Sheldon;  and  the 


i  ' 


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;    It 


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f     ; 

11 


72 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


Congress  Hall  and  Missisquoi  Valley  House,  at 
Sheldon  Spring.  This  place  is  about  eight  miles 
from  St.  All)ans,  from  whence  regular  stages  run. 

The  railroad  divides  a  short  distance  beyond  St. 
Albans.  The  branch  running  to  St.  Johns  passes 
East  Swanton  (nine  miles)  after  crossing  the  Mis- 
sisquoi  river,  and  Highgate  (four  miles),  which  is 
the  last  station  in  the  United  States.  St.  Johns  is 
the  only  important  station  in  Canada,  before  reach* 
ing  Montreal.  This  road  enters  Montreal  by  the 
great  Tubular  bridge.  Tlie  Highgate  Springs  are 
situated  near  the  Vermont  and  Canada  Kailwav  and 
about  twelve  miles  from  St.  Albans. 

The  Franklin  House,  Avith  its  cottages,  is  plea* 
santly  situated  in  a  thick  grove,  near  the  spring,  a 
short  distance  from  Missisquoi  liay,  and  is  large  and 
commodious.  The  numerous  attractions  it  posses* 
ses,  from  the  celebrity  of  the  water,  the  character  of 
the  house,  the  beauty  of  the  situation,  and  its  iine 
sporting  grounds,  have  rendered  Highgate  a  popu* 
lar  resort. 

The  Missisquoi  Branch  of  the  XL  Central  has  re* 
cently  been  constructed  from  St.  Albans  to  Sheldon* 

Starting  from  the  St.  Albans  depot  on  the  Rouse's 
Point  branch  of  the  road,  we  reach  (nine  miles) 
Swanton.  Before  arriving  at  the  station  the  tourist 
will  remark  extensive  quarries  of  AVinooski  marble, 
slate-rock,  a  large  range  of  lime  kilns,  and  an  im* 
mense  accumulation  of  quick-lime.  A  short  dis- 
tance beyond  the  lime  kilns  may  be  noticed  an 
extraordinary  material  used  in  fdling  in  the  track, 
and  taken  from  a  deposit  adjacent,  through  which 
the  railroad  passes.  This  tlepositis  formed  of  nearly 
pure  marine  shell.  (Geology  of  Vermont).  The 
falls  at  Swanton  create  a  valuable  water  power, 
which  is  utilized  bv  various  manufactories.     Pas- 


® 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


73 


sengers  stop  here  who  intend  to  proceed  to  High- 
gate  Springs.  The  traveller  has  left  the  region  of 
mountains,  and  brawling  streams,  and  now  enters 
on  a  low,  swampy  district  which  is  on  the  verge  of 
that  vast  northern  plain  to  which  we  have  already 
adverted.  As  he  approaches  Alburgh,  he  will  trav- 
erse an  admirably  constructed  bridge,  due  to  the 
skill  and  ingenuity  of  the  accomplished  architect, 
Henry  R.  Campbell.  This  structure,  about  a  mile 
long,  and  containing  a  drawbridge,  spans  Missis- 
quoi  Bay.  Immediately  on  crossing  the  bridge  he 
reaches  tlie  Alburgh  Springs  station  ( sixteen  miles  ), 
from  which  a  short  and  pleasant  drive  conducts  him 
to  this  celebrated  resort.  These  springs  have  been 
known  and  visited  for  their  medicinal  use  since 
1810,  and  are  constantly  growing  in  puldic  favor. 

The  historical  reader  will  recollect,  that  some  of 
the  medicinal  si)ring.s  of  Europe  were  revealed  to 
the  Romans,  l)y  following  tlie  beaten  track  made  ])y 
aninuils  m  resorting  to  tliem  :  so  tlie  mineral  Avaters 
of  Vermont,  it  is  noticed,  jH'culiarly  delight  the 
domesticated  cattle.  Tlie  Iodine  Springs,  and  we 
tlnnk  others,  the  eurly  settlers  discovered  by  follow- 
j,  ing  the  ])aths  made  by  the  moose  and  deer.  In 
opening  these  springs,  numerous  remains  of  horns 
and  hoofs,  aiul  other  relics  of  wild  <]uadrupeds,  were 
found  uathered  about  them. 

There  are  two  springs  at  Alburgh,  only  a  few 
rods  apart.  Two  cai)acious  and  excellent  hotels 
have  been  erected  in  the  vicinity.  They  stand  near 
tlie  bay  and  may  be  reached  by  boats.  The  retire- 
ment and  beauty  of  the  place,  the  high  reputation 
of  the  waters,  esi)ecially  in  cutaneous  aiul  scrofu- 
lous alfections,  and  the  attracticuis  of  driving,  boat- 
ing, lishing  and  gunning,  unite  to  make  Alburgh 


1 

i        I 


4 


J 


u 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


popular,  both  with  the  invalid  and  pleasure-seeker. 
Alburgh  Springs  House  :    ( see  Appendix.) 

After  passing  two  small  stations,  (Alburgh  and 
West  Alburgh,)  the  traveller  crosses  to  House's 
Point,  over  the  remarkable  bridge  v/hich  connects 
the  Vermont  and  New  York  shores.  This  struc- 
ture, a  wonderful  triumph  of  energy,  perseverance 
and  mechanical  science,  is  a  mile  in  length,  and 
contains  a  draw  or  floating  track,  designed  to  admit 
the  passage  of  vessels  navigating  the  Sorelle.  This 
draw  was  designed  to  be  three  hundred  and  fiftv  feet 
long,  and  in  its  unique  and  remarkable  construction 
has  no  antecedent.  This  al?^  was  the  work  and  inven- 
tion of  Mr.  Campbell.  W'^  have  no  space  to  attempt 
a  description  of  the  plan  or  its  operation,  which  invite 
the  examination  of  all  observing  tourists.  The 
landscape,  on  every  side,  presented  while  crossing 
the  bridge,  is  eminently  fine.  We  are  now  in  the 
great  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  massive 
stone  structure,  directly  at  the  north,  which  is  grad- 
ually attaining  such  vast  dimensions,  and  promises 
such  stupendous  strength,  is  Fort  Montgomery,  in 
progress  of  erection  by  the  government.  ( Massa- 
chusetts House. )  Eouse's  Point,  ( twenty-three 
miles,)  is  the  point  of  junction  of  three  railroads; 
the  Vermont  and  Canada,  Ogdensburgh  and  Cham- 
plain  and  the  Montreal  and  Lake  Champlain,  or 
Montreal,  St.  Johns  and  Rouse's  Point.  The  sta- 
tions and  distances  from  House's  Point  are  Lacolle, 
six  miles;  Stottsville,  seven  miles;  Grand  Ligne, 
sixteen  miles ;  St.  Johns,  twenty-three  miles ;  La 
Cadie,  thirty  miles;  Brosseaus,  thirty-eight  miles; 
St.  Lambert,  forty-three  miles;  Montreal,  fifty  miles. 


H 


Alburgh  Springs  House,  Alburgh  Springs,  Vt. 


^iMi 


ii 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


75 


Ogdensburgh    and    Lake  Cham- 
plain  Railroad, 


From  Rouse's  Point  to  Ogdensburgh,  its  termini, 
tliis  road  is  one  liundred  and  eighteen  miles  in 
lengtli.  It  is  celebrated  for  the  luxuriant  arrange- 
ments of  its  cars,  and  its  high  speed.  Champlain 
(four  miles,)  is  a  neat  and  thriving  village  on  the  Big 
Chazy  river,  which  is  navigaljle  nearly  to  that  point, 
and  affords  a  superior  motive  power,  which  is  amply 
occupied.  Perry's  Mills,  ( three  miles );  Mooer's 
Junction,  (five  miles);  where  the  Montreal  and 
Plattsl)urgh  Railroad  connects.  In  the  north-west- 
ern part  of  this  town  is  a  natural  curiosity, — its 
great  attractiveness  demands  more  attention  than 
it  has  received.  It  is  called  the  Gulf,  and  is  a  gorge 
three  hundred  feet  deep,  and  about  the  same  width. 
Perpendicular  walls  of  Potsdam  sand-stone  enclose 
it  on  both  sides,  and  at  the  bottom  lies  a  p(^nd  of 
fabulou.^  deptlis.  Centrcvillo,  three  miles;  A\'ood's 
Falls,  three  miles;  Altona,  three  mile?;  Ellen- 
burgh,  eight  miles;  Summit,  eight  miles,— a  few 
miles  bevond  tliis  station  a  splendid  view  of  tlie  St. 
Lawrence  may  be  seen  from  the  car  windows, — Cha- 
teaugay,  eight  miles.  A  short  distance  from  the 
village  is  a  mysterious  spring.  It  evolves  bubbles 
of  nitrogen  gas,  and  discharging  for  a  period  a 
large  stream,  it  suddenly  intermits  the  flowing  and 
continues  dry  for  an  indefinite  term.    Near  the  sta- 


n 


li 

i  \' 


ilii 


76 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


tion  lioii&e  is  a  remarkable  chasm  two  hundred  feet 
deep,  ]>iercing  the  solid  rook,  through  which  the 
Chateaugay  river  flows.  The  railroad  crosses  this 
stream,  on  a  bridge  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
above  the  water.  From  this  point  the  Chateaugay 
woods  are  conveniently  accessible.  (The  Koberts 
House  and  Union  House).  Chateaugay  Lake  lies 
a  few  miles  from  this  place,  and  is  easily  reached. 
Chateaugay  Lake. — AVe  are  indebted  to  the 
facile  and  graphic  pen  of  an  intelligent  lady,  for  a 
description  of  this  beautiful  locality.  "  The  lake  is 
situated  about  eight  miles  from  Chateaugay  village. 
Carriages  meet  the  trains  at  the  depot,  and  convey 
passengers  to  the  lower  lake,  by  a  pleasant  ride  of 
about  two  hours.  Here  is  a  good  hotel,  where 
sportsmen  will  be  furnished  with  board,  boats  and 
guides,  at  reasonable  charges.  At  the  wharf,  in 
front  of  the  hotel,  lies  the  "Nelly  Tupper"  always 
"  steamed  up  ".  This  lake  is  two  miles  in  length 
and  one  wide,  and  surrounded  by  fine  mountain 
scenerv  and  rockv  shores.  Leaving  this  water,  the 
tourist  enters  the  Narrows,  four  miles  long  and 
half  a  mile  in  width,  wliere  there  is  at  some  points 
fine  fishing.  From  a  point  two  miles  beyond  on  the 
west  shore,  a  foot-path  leads  to  Ragged  Lake,  where 
the  best  hunting  iind  fishing  may  be  enjoyed,  and 
reliable  guides  obtained.  The  "narrows  sooji  widen 
and  the  scenery  expands.  A  short  turn  is  made 
and  tlie  upper  lake,  like  magic,  is  revealed  in  one 
of  the  most  lovelv  views  in  the  world.  There  are  a 
number  of  comfortable  boarding-houses  at  desirable 
points,  and  excellent  sport.  On  the  west  shore  line 
private  residences  have  been  constructed  by  gentle- 
men of  Boston  and  New  York,  who  spend  the  sum- 
mers here  with  their  families.  In  the  centre  of  the 
lake  is  Rock  Island,  with  a  snitdl  private  cottage. 


m- 

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ge. 


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® 


THE      ADIRONDACK'S. 


On  visiting  the  spot,  one  could  easily  imagine  he 
was  in  f-xiry  hind,  the  picture  is  so  grand  and  beau- 
tiful, and  none  sliould  leave  the  lake  Avithout  get- 
ting a  view  of  it  from  that  point:  and  few  have 
done  so,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  hundreds  of 
names  recorded  there.  Chateaugay  Lake  is  one  of 
the  most  favorable  localities  in  the  state  for  sports- 
men and  parties,  from  its  easy  access  to  the  cars 
and  telegraphs.  Sometimes  parties,  including 
ladies,  incline  to  stay  at  the  hotel  nights  and  go  up 
the  lake  iu'the  morning  either  in  small  boats  or  the 
steamer:  others,  more  romantic,  prefer  to  "shanty 
out''  as  Ave  call  it,  in  shanties  or  tents,  a  very 
pleasant  arrangement  in  warm  weather.  The  gieat 
difficulty  is,  parties  coming  to  this  or  other  lakes, 
expect  to  find  all  the*  luxuries  of  the  city."  Chateau- 
gay  Lake,  is  02  miles,  by  railroad  and  stages,  from 
Plattsburgh;  Burke,  four  miles;  Malone,  eight  miles, 
situated  on  Salmon  River,  is  a  highly  prosperous  vil- 
lage, and  the  most  important  station  on  the  route. 
The  main  street  is  broad  and  handsome,  and  lined  by 
many  fine  public  and  private  buildings.  The  passage 
of  the  track  over  the  deep  and  narrow  gorge  of  the 
river,  far  above  the  foaming  stream,  will  attract 
notice,  soon  after  leaving  this  station.  The  Fergu- 
son House  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  hotels  in 
northern  New  York.  Bangor,  six  miles;  Brush's 
Mills,  five  miles ;  (Giles'  Hotel) ;  Moira,  three  miles ; 
Lawrence,  seven  miles ;  Brazier  Falls,  five  miles ; 
{Dun ton's  Hotel,  see  Apioendix).  This  is  the  near- 
est station  to  Masseua  Springs, — five  miles, — to 
\vhich  stages  run  in  connection  with  the  trains. 

Massena  Springs. — These  waters  have  been  for 
a  long  period  widely  celebrated,  and  it  is  tatradiuuii 
that  their  healing  properties  were  known  to  the  abo- 
riginees.     The  springs,  (of  which  the  St.  Regis  is 


f 
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! 

■'       1 


I 


'■  '! 


! 


78 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


1^ 


1:        IC 


the  most  inii)ortant)  are  live  in  number,  and  not 
essentially  different  in  their  medicinal  finalities. 
They  are  situated  on  the  Kaf[uette  river,  and  are 
seven  miles  from  Louisville,  on  the  St.  Lawrence, — 
to  which  stages  regularly  run, — and  four  from  Long 
Sault  rai)ids,  one  of  the  most  attractive  scenes  on  the 
river.  The  surroundings  of  the  springs  are  ex- 
tremelv  beautiful.  The  L^nited  States  Hotel  is  a 
large  and  commodious  house.  Potsdam  Junction, 
eleven  miles: — from  this  station  runs  a  branch  of 
the  Rome,  Watertown  and  Ogdensburgh  Kailroad. 
(Whitney's  Hotel).  Stages  run  daily  to  Massena 
Springs,  fifteen  miles;  Madrid,  eight  miles, — con- 
nects with  Massena  Springs  by  stages, — (Frontier 
House) ;  Lisbon,  eight  miles  ;  Ogdensburgh,  nine 
miles. 

Ogdexsburgh. — The  site  of  this  interesting  town 
was  occupied  by  a  Catholic  Mission  at  an  early  day. 
The  ruins  of  the  Fort  La  Presentation,  erected  by 
the  French  in  1748,  remain.  Ogdensburgh  stands 
near  the  confluence  of  the  Oswegatchie  with  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  is  a  prosperous  place,  possessing  im- 
^portant  commercial  and  manufacturing  advantages. 
Several  steamboat  companies  connect  it  with  the 
commerce  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  great  lakes. 
The  Ogdensburgh  and  Lake  Chamj)lain,  and  Rome, 
Watertown  and  Ogdensburgh  Railroads  terminate 
here.  The  structures  of  the  former  are  on  a  mag-  ® 
iiificent  scale.  Nearly  a  mile  of  wharves  extend 
along  the  river,  with  a  grain  elevator  of  the  largest 
size  at  one  extremity.  A  steam  ferry  connects  these 
roads  with  the  Grand  Trunk  and  Ottawa  and  Pres- 
cott  Raihvays.  The  city  is  agreeably  laid  out  in 
broad  and  straight  streets,  and  contains  many  ele- 
gant private  mansions  and  imposing  public  edifices. 
On  the  opposite  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  may  be 


® 


® 


(*) 


® 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


79 


observed  the  remains  of  the  stone  wiiul-niill,  the 
scene  of  an  heroic  defence  during  the  rebellion  of 
1837,  maintained  by  a  small  band  of  patriots  against 
a  far  superior  British  force.  The  population  of 
Ogdensburgh  is  about  twelve  thousand.  The  prin- 
cipal hotels  are  Seymour  House,  Johnson  House, 
and  Myers  House. 

The  western  section  of  this  railway  crosses  a  level 
country,  traversed  by  numerous  streams,  the  most 
prominent  of  which  start  from  the  recesses  of  the 
Adirondacks.  Near  Aladrid,  the  track  crosses  the 
La  Grass;  at  Potsdam  Junction,  the  Raquette;  at 
Malone,  the  Salmon  river,  and  at  Brazier,  the  St. 
Regis.  " 


•-♦♦♦->■ 


Montreal  and  Plattsburgh   R.  R. 


This  railway  is  sixty-three  miles  in  length.  The 
route  from  Mooers  Junction  to  Plattsburgh  pre- 
sents no  points  of  particular  interest.  The  restau- 
rant at  Mooer's  Junction  is  highly  celebrated.  The 
trains  perform  one  trip  daily  in  each  direction, 
leaving  Plattsburgh  in  the  morning  and  Montreal 
in  the  afternoon,  connecting  with  the  morning  and 
evening  boat.  Passengers  arriving  by  the  evening 
train,  and  those  leaving  Rouse's  Point  by  the  after- 
noon boat,  who  wish  to  secure  a  complete  survey  of 
the  scenery  of  the  lake,  should  remain  at  least  a 
night  at  Plattsburgh,  and  embark  in  the  morning 
boat.    A  day  or  two  however,  might  be  delightfully 


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80 


THE      ADIUOXDACKS. 


occupied  in  visiting  tlie  point.s  ofliistoric  j)roniini'nee 
associated  witli  tliis  inturostiiig  localitv.  Tourists, 
proposing  a  tri)i  tlirougli  Lake  Georgi*,  hy  adopting 
our  suggestion  will  stop  at  Ticonderoga  in  tiie  alter- 
noon  instead  of  experiencing  the  discomlits  of  a 
landing  jit  nigiit.  Thoiie  desiring  to  hasten  their 
journey  may  enil)ariv  directly  on  ihe  Lake  (ieorge 
steamer,  hut  few  intelligent  travellers  will  be  will- 
ing to  leave  these  scenes  without  a  longer  sojourn. 
Visitors  may  leave  Plattshurgli  hy  the  six  o'clock 
morning  train,  and  spending  five  hours  in  Montreal, 
return  by  the  evening  cars.  The  stations  on  the 
M.  and  P.  railway,  are  Beekmantown,  four  miles; 
West  Chazy,  five;  Sciota,  five;  Mooer's  Junction, 
four;  Province  Line,  two;  Hemmingford,  four; 
Johnson's,  four;  Hughs,  four;  Lapigionniere,  three; 
St.  Remi,  four  ;  St.  Isidore,  six  ;  Caughnawaga,  five; 
Lacliine,  two;  Montreal,  eight.  Ottawa  House, 
[see  Appendix]. 


a 


j 


Birmingham  Falls,  Ausable  Chasm. 


THE      APIRONDACKS. 


81 


I 


THE  AUSABLE  CHASM, 


Or,  as  it  was  formerly  called,  "  the  Walled  Banks 
of  the  All  Sable,"  is  situated  on  the  Au  Sable  river, 
three  miles  from  Port  Kent  and  two  from  Keese- 
ville.  The  plank  road  crosses  a  bridge  at  the  head 
of  the  gorge,  and  the  chasm,  along  its  whole  length, 
is  easily  accessible  from  the  public  highway.  Hence, 
it  may  be  visited  without  labor  or  fatigue.  This 
stupendous  phenomenon  has  been  well  described, 
as  "  one  of  the  natural  wonders  of  the  world ". 
Miss  Breamer,  the  Swedish  author,  while  gazing  on 
the  scene  with  enraptured  wonder  and  the  delight  of 
genius,  exclaimed,  that  "  a  visit  to  it  would  reward 
a  voyage  from  Europe".  Lying  almost  upon  the 
line  of  one  of  the  most  thronged  routes  of  pleasure 
travel  on  the  continent,  and  reached  with  every 
desirable  facility, — and  in  addition,  associated  with 
numerous  and  varied  other  objects  of  interest,  it  is 
surprising  that  any  tourist,  in  pursuit  of  the  beau- 
tiful and  imposing  in  nature,  should  pass  throiio^h 
Lake  Champlain  without  pausing  and  turning  aside 
to  explore  the  "  Chasm  of  the  Au  Sable."  It  may  be 
reached  by  a  pleasant  steamboat  excursion  from 
Burlington,  or  a  delightful  ride.of  twelve  miles  from 
Plattsburgh  ;  or,  if  preferred,  the  Whitehall  and 
Plattsburgh  liailroad  will  take  the  traveller  to  the 
depot  at  Peru,  from  wiience  he  will  be  conveyed  in 
excellent  carriages,  by  the  way  of  Keescville,  to  the 
Chasm,  or  directly  there,  a  distance  of  about  seven 
miles.    The  usual  course,  is  to  land  at  Port  Kent 


X 


■:) 


f    I 


82 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


if^ 


I  i 


and  proceed  at  once  to  the  scene,  or  to  ride  to  Keese- 
ville,  and  visit  it  at  greater  leisure.  It  will  claim 
more  than  a  transient  and  cursorv  examination. 
The  superior  hotels  at  Keeseville,  the  interesting 
objects  of  attraction  in  that  village,  and  the  i)leasant 
drives  in  the  vicinity,  would  render  a  sojourn  there 
peculiarly  agreeable.  Regular  stage  coaches  meet 
the  steamers  at  Port  Kent,  and  livery  carriages 
may  always  be  ordered  from  Keeseville  to  accommo- 
date individuals  or  parties.  (See  advertisement  in 
Appendix.)  We  will  transcribe  a  description  of 
this  locality,  prepared  by  the  writer  in  connection 
with  a  former  publication.  It  was  thought,  that  the 
account  would  receive  an  increased  interest  and  be 
better  understood  by  tracing  the  course  of  the  river 
from  the  point  where  the  sand-stone  formation, 
which,  in  effect,  has  produced  this  Chasm,  com- 
mences. 

The  passage  of  the  Au  Sable  river  along  its  lofty 
and  perpendicular  banks  and  through  the  Chasm 
at  the  high  bridge,  is  more  familiar  to  the  public 
mind  than  most  of  the  striking  and  picturesque  fea- 
tures of  that  romantic  stream.  The  continued  and 
gradual  force  of  the  current,  aided  perhaps  by  some 
vast  eflfort  of  nature,  has  formed  a  passage  of  the  riv- 
er through  the  deep  layers  of  sand-stone  rock,  which 
are  boldly  developed  above  the  village  of  Keeseville, 
and  form  the  embankments  of  the  river,  until  it 
reaches  the  quiet  basin  below  the  high  bridge.  In 
the  vicinity  of  Keeseville,  the  passage  of  the  stream 
is  between  a  wall  on  either  side  of  fiftv  feet  in 
height;  leaving  these  the  river  glides  gently  along 
a  low  valley,  until  suddenly  hurled  over  a  precipice, 
that  creates  a  fall  of  singular  beauty.  Foaming 
and  surging  from  this  point,  over  a  rocky  bed  until 
it    reaches  the    village  of    Birmingham,   it  there 


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stairway  at  Ausable  Chasm. 


v._ 


THE      ADIROXDACKS. 


83 


abruptly  bursts  into  a  dark,  deep  chasm  of  sixty  feet. 
A  bridge,  witli  one  abutment  setting  upon  a  rock 
that  divides  the  stream,  crosses  the  river  at  the 
head  of  this  fall.  This  bridge  is  perpetually  envel- 
oped in  a  thick  cloud  of  spray  and  mist.  In  winter, 
the  frost  work  encrusts  the  rocks  and  trees,  with  the 
most  gorgeous  fabrics  :  myriads  of  columns  and 
arches,  and  icy  diamonds,  and  stalactites  glitter  in 
the  sunbeams.  In  the  sunshine,  a  brilliant  rainbow 
spreads  its  radiant  arc  over  this  deep  abyss.  All 
.these  elements,  rare  in  their  combination,  shed 
upon  this  scene  an  effect  inexpressibly  wild,  pictur- 
esque and  beautiful.  The  river  plunges  from  the 
latter  precipice  amid  the  embrasures  of  the  vast  gulf, 
in  which  for  nearly  a  mile  it  is  quite  hidden  to  ob- 
servation from  above.  It  pours  in  a  wild  torrent, 
now  along  a  natural  canal,  formed  in  the  rocks  in 
almost  perfect  and  exact  courses,  and  now  darts 
madly  down  a  precipice.  The  wall  rises  on  a  ver- 
tical face  upon  each  side  from  seventy-five  to  one 
hundred  and  fiftv  feet,  whilst  the  width  of  the 
chasm  rarely  exceeds  thirty  feet,  and  at  several 
points  the  stupendous  masonry  of  tl  b  opposite  Avails 
approaches  within  eight  or  ten  fee;  Lateral  fissures, 
deep  and  narrov/,  project  from  the  main  ravine  at 
nearly  right  angles.  Tlie  abyss  is  reached  through 
one  of  these  crevices  by  a  stairway  descending  to  the 
water  by  two  hundred  and  twelve  steps.  The  entire 
mass  of  these  walls  is  formed  of  laminjv  of  sandstone 
rock,  laid  in  regular  and  precise  structures,  almost 
rivaling  the  most  accurate  artificial  work.  The 
pines  and  cedars  starting  from  the  apertures  of  the 
wall,  spread  a  dark  canopy  over  the  gulf.  The  in- 
strumentality which  has  produced  this  wonderful 
work  is  a  pr»)blem  that  presents  a  wide  scope  for  in- 
teresting, but  unsatisfactory  speculation. 


f 


! 


84 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


■ 


A  report  of  tlic  State  geologist  asserts,  "  that  near 
the  bottom  of  the  fissure  at  the  High  bridge,  and 
through  an  extent  of  seventy  feet,  numerous  speci- 
mens of  a  small  bi valvular  molusca,  or  linguhT,"  are 
discovered,  and  "  that  ripple  marks  appear  at  the 
depth  of  seventy  or  eighty  feet." 

An  explorer  will  discover  various  points  of  interest 
as  he  passes  along  the  high  "wooded  banks,  and 
watches  the  hidden  passage  of  the  water  beneath,  or 
examines  the  fissures,  seams,  and  points  the  rocks 
assume.  At  a  narrow  part  of  the  goi-ge,  he  will  be 
able  to  trace  the  early  road  constructed  by  the 
pioneer  settlers,  and  which  crossed  the  cliasm  on  a 
bridge  built  upon  the  bodies  of  trees  felled  across  it. 
At  the  foot  of  the  stairway  is  a  platform,  separated 
by  a  narrow,  deep  cliasm,  from  what  is  called  the 
Table  Rock.  Through  this  passage,  the  river,  com- 
pressed into  a  deep  and  limited  channel,  rushes  with 
the  impetuosity  of  a  mill-race.  The  Table  Rock 
was  formerly  reached  by  walking  upon  a  log  over 
the  chasm,  and  was  a  favorite  but  somewhat  dange- 
rous resort  of  pic-nic  parties,  until  a  tragic  event 
arrested  the  habit.  A  Mr.  Dyer,  an  Episcopal  min- 
ister, was,  some  years  ago,  in  the  act  of  leading 
a  lady  across  this  log,  when  suddenly  losing  his 
balance  he  fell  into  the  rushing  torrent,  and  never 
rose  to  the  surface,  nor  was  his  body  seen  by  the 
horror-stricken  spectators,  until  days  afterwards, 
when  it  was  found  far  below  upon  a  shallow  in  the 
river.  The  beautiful  and  spacious  woods  on  the 
rocks  above,  which  have  been  neatly  prepared  for 
the  purpose,  are  usually  the  scene  of  these  festive 
gatherings,  where  often,  on  a  bright  summer  day, 
several  parties  of  pleasure  seekers  may  be  seen  enjoy- 
ing a  healthful  recreation  and  the  beauties  of  the 
place.    Each,   unless   they  choose  to  fraternize,  is 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


So 


lis 


le 
is 


distinct,  and  nndistnrbed  in  its  movements.  At 
low  water,  by  moving  cautiously  below  the  cliffs  or 
clambering  down  the  steep  bank,  the  adventurous 
explorer  will  gain  several  wierd  and  iantastic  views. 
"The  Devil's  Oven,"  a  deep,  cavernous  recess  in  the 
rock,  is  one  of  these. 

Kei:sevi].lk.  This  is  an  important  and  prosper- 
ous manufacturing  village,  standing  on  both  sides 
of  the  An  Sable  lUver,  about  four  miles  from  the 
lake.  Its  location  is  very  handsome;  the  glimmer- 
ing river,  as  it  is  viewed  from  the  roads  that  ap- 
proach the  village  on  the  adjacent  hills,  and  the 
grove-like  profusion  of  the  trees  that  embrace  it, 
impart  to  the  i)lace  a  singularly  pleasant  aspect. 
Keeseville  has  no  marked  public  buildings,  excejit 
some  line  Cliurclies  and  a  new  Bank;  but  many  of 
its  private  residences  are  elegant  edifices.  The  river 
affords  a  vast  motive  power,  in  and  contiguous  to 
the  village,  adapted  to  almost  unlimited  expansion. 
Its  manufacturing  institutions  are  new,  large  and 
varied,  and  rapidly  increasing.  Among  those  most 
worthy  of  the  attention  of  the  tourist,  are  the 
Horse  \ail  Factory,  the  Twine  and  the  Wire  works. 
Each  of  these  will  reward  a  careful  and  protracted 
examination.  The  machines  used  in  the  Horse 
Nail  Factory  are  the  invention  of  Mr.  Daniel  Dodge, 
of  this  village,  and  Avill  bt^  regarded  as  a  wonderful 
triumph  of  mechanical  science,  directed  by  great 
ingenuity.  The  spectator  will  look  upon  it  with 
mingled  feelings  of  wonder  and  admiration,  at  its 
mighty  force,  so  completely  controlled  and  adjusted, 
and  the  beauty  and  precision  of  the  work.  A  walk 
through  these  works,  and  an  examination  of  the 
various  processes  connected  with  the  fabrication, 
the  assorting  Jind  preparing  of  these  nails  for  mar- 
ket, will  afford  a  most  interesting  study. 


I! 


86 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


•     1 


The  sojourner  at  Keeseville  should  not  fail  to 
direct  his  steps  to  the  Rolling  Mill,  on  the  first  dam 
below  the  arch  bridge.  This  mill  is  assumed  to  be 
second  to  none  other  in  the  perfection  and  power  of 
its  arrangements.  To  watch  its  operations  is  deeply 
exciting.  As  the  glowing,  red  hot  rods  rush  through 
the  rollers,  a  stranger  will  almost  shrink  from  them, 
as  he  sees  the  long  irons  vibrating  and  writhing,  like 
the  contortions  of  fiery  serpents.  The  massive  stone 
bridge,  that  spans  the  river  by  a  single  ponderous 
arch,  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  will  gratify  the 
most  careful  inspection.  The  "Evergreen  Ceme- 
tery," at  Keeseville,  by  its  peculiarly  favorable  posi- 
tion and  surroundings,  and  from  the  taste  with 
which  it  has  been  arranged,  is  among  the  most 
beautiful  burying  grounds  in  the  country.  The 
monument  to  the  distinguished  George  A.  Simmons 
will  be  one  of  the  first  objects  the  eye  of  the  visitor 
will  rest  upon. 

Fronting  on  one  of  the  main  streets  of  the  village, 
the  stranger  will  observe  a  tasteful  structure, 
which  covers  a  valuable  medicinal  spring,  upon  the 
premises  of  Mr.  John  B.  Wills.  The  water  of  this 
spring  has  been  celebrated  from  an  early  date  in  the 
settlement  of  the  country,  for  the  remarkable  cures 
effected  in  various  complaints.  Several  eminent 
chemists  have  examined  the  water  with  highly  fa- 
vorable results.  It  is  pronounced  both  saline  and 
calybeate,  closely  resembling  some  of  the  best  of 
the  German  mineral  spring  waters,  and  that  it  will 
prove  a  valuable  medicinal  agent.  A  fine  house  on 
the  premises,  will  receive  a  few  boarders. 

The  drives  in  the  environs  of  Keeseville  are  par- 
ticularly pleasant.  Lake  Champlain  is  only  dis- 
tant, at  several  points,  four  miles,  where  excellent 
fishing,  with  agreeable  opportunities  for    rowing 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


87 


and  sailing,  can  always  be  secured.  An  excursion 
to  the  defile,  known  as  "  Poke  0  Moonshine," 
about  eight  miles  on  the  Elizabethtown  road,  will 
afford  a  view  of  a  striking  exhibition  of  the  "  In- 
dian Pass"  in  miniature.  Near  this  rojid,  four 
miles  from  Keeseville,  are  situated  Butternut  and 
Augur  ponds,  the  scene  of  a  highly  successful  ex- 
periment in  the  tranference  of  tish.  A  few  years 
ago,  pickerel  were  removed  from  the  lake  to  these 
ponds.  The  fresh  and  abundant  feeding  grounds 
they  enjoyed,  tended  to  produce  an  immense  in- 
crease, in  both  their  numbers  and  size,  while  these 
changes,  and  the  purity  and  coolness  of  the  water 
communicated  to  the  tish  a  new  and  infinitely  im- 
proved flavor.  Fish  of  an  enormous  weight  are  now 
taken  in  great  quantities.  Brook  trout  are  copious 
in  many  streams  in  the  vicinity.  A  short  ride,  of 
less  than  three  miles,  to  Hallock  Hill,  will  introduce 
the  tourist  to  a  spot  where  he  may  contemplate  one 
of  the  richest  and  loveliest  landscapes  the  eye  ever 
rested  upon.  It  is  soft  and  beautiful,  but  in  some 
directions  magnificent  and  impressive, — spreading 
over  a  wide  and  diversified  scenery.  The  late  Arch 
Bishop  Hughes,  Avho,  in  his  periodical  visits  to  a 
little  church,  perched  upon  a  mountain  west  of 
Peru,  never  failed  to  visit  a  rock  where,  from  a  dif- 
ferent point,  this  scene  might  be  viewed,  pronounc- 
ed the  landscape  the  most  delightful  he  had  ever 
beheld.  Authors  have  described  it ;  travellers  have 
long  expatiated  upon  its  beauties,  and  no  lover  of 
the  charms  and  grandeur  of  nature,  should  omit  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  place.  Prospect  Hill,  about  a  mile 
from  Keeseville,  is  an  eminence  from  which  a  very 
enlarged  and  beautiful  survey  may  be  had,  and  forms 
a  pleasant  stroll  or  ride  from  the  village.  The  Au 
Sable  House  and  the  Adirondack  Hotel,  (see  appen- 


88 


THE      ADIROXDACKS. 


(lix,)  at  Keeseville,  are  both  excellent,  first-class 
houses,  and  will  afford  delightful  sojourns  for  fami- 
lies during  the  summer  months.  "  The  Chasm 
House,"  in  Birmingham,  near  the  Chasm,  supplies, 
at  all  hours,  good  meals.  The  livery  accommoda- 
tions at  Keeseville  are  ample. 


-♦♦•«»-► 


THE    AU   SABLE   RIVER. 


This  stream,  from  its  mouth  to  its  highest  foun- 
tains among  the  Adirondacks,  is  fraught  witli  ever- 
recurring  phases  that  delight  the  tourist,  and  with 
grand,  stern  and  solemn  exliibitions  that  reward 
the  researches  of  the  explorer.  We  have  attempted, 
and  are  aware  how  imperfectly,  to  describe  the 
Chasm. 

The  river  discharges  by  two  mouths,  forming  a  per- 
fect delta.  Both  brandies  are  navigable  by  boats,  and 
a  row  along  tli<^  narrow  channel,  winding  amid 
aquatic  grasses,  and  deeply  canopied  by  overhang- 
ing trees  and  banks,  affords  a  novel  and  exciting 
excursion.  In  the  ujiper  part,  dry  glades  occur, 
which  furnish  favorite  and  secluded  resorts  to  par- 
ties of  pleasure,  where,  beneath  the  broad  shades  of 
the  mnjestic  elms  or  sycamores,  they  may  indulge 
in  the  jileasant  pastimes  and  wild  revelries  that  such 
scenes  invite.  This  part  of  the  river  is  fav(>rable 
ground  for  fishing  with  the  seine,  and  is  often  visit- 
ed for  tluit  purpose  by  tourists.  In  some  spots  along 


THE       M)IRONDACKS 


80 


this  delta,  the  siirfaet'  of  tlie  Avjiter  is  loaclod  with 
the  richly  peri'unied  and  chaste  white  water  lily. 

In  passing,'  alon^*  the  plank  road,  a  short  distance 
below  the  Kolliiiii-  Mill,  the  roaring  of  a  water-fall 
and  the  mist  ascendinii;  from  it,  nuiy  be  noticed. 
These  betray  a  cascade,  which  is  hidden  from  the 
road  by  intervening  trees  and  an  eminence,  bnt  is 
one  of  the  finest  and  most  picturesque  upon  the 
river.  A  stretch  of  deep,  still  water  extends  three 
miles  up  the  river,  between  the  high  sand-stone 
blulfs  we  have  mentioned,  and  then  along  wide,  ver- 
dant meadows  on  one  side  and  rugged  banks  upon  the 
other,  and  ailbrds  ])leasant  boating.  The  plank  road 
from  Keeseville  to  Au  Sable  Forks,  is  a  charming 
drive,  through  a  rich  and  varied  scenery,  with  the 
majestic  form  ol  thf  White  Face^Mountains,  direct- 
ly in  iVont,  standijig  like  a  bulwark  to  ojipose  our 
progress.  Six  mil<'S  from  Keeseville,  at  Clinton- 
ville;  are  the  works  of  the  Peru  Steel  and  Iron 
Works,  embracing,  it  is  stated,  the  largest  forge 
upon  the  continent;  and  six  miles  beyond,  passing 
midway  the  Point  of  Kocks,  the  present  terminus  of 
the  Whitehall  aiul  Plattsburgh  li.  li.,  we  reach  Au 
vSable  Forks,  where  is  established  one  branch  of  the 
vast  manufaccuring  business  of  "  J.  &  J.  Rogers 
Iron  Company."  Here  are  three  comfortable 
hotels. 

At  this  place  tiie  Eastern  and  Western  branches 
unite  iind  form  the  Au  Sable  river  proper.  In  pur- 
suing our  proposed  journey,  the  tourist  will  continue 
to  travel  through  a  pleasant  country,  along  the 
banks  of  the  stream,  by  the  delightful  valley  of  Jay 
to  Keene  Flats,  twenty  miles.  Evidences  will  be 
noticed  of  the  ravages  by  the  terrible  inundation  of 
1857,  through  the  entire  valley. 


90 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


Keexe  Flats. — This  name  is  applied  to  one  of 
the  loveliest  spots  in  all  the  Adirondack  region.  It 
is  a  rich  allnvial  valley,  along  which  the  river  glides 
between  high  banks,  lined  and  almost  hidden  by  a 
thick  hedge  of  alders.  The  varied  flora  of  the  dis- 
trict is  most  copious  and  exquisitely  beautiful. 
Environed  by  mountains  and  hills  ou  every  side,  the 
tourist  wonders  by  what  unseen  avenue  he  entered 
the  valley,  and  hoAv  the  stream  penetrates  the  sur- 
rounding barriers.  So  deeply  sequestered  and  with- 
draAvn  from  the  din  and  bustle  of  the  world,  the 
loveliness  of  the  place,  and  its  quiet  repose,  invite 
a  yearly  increase  of  visitors.  Mr.  N.  M.  Dibble  and 
Mr.  H.  Washbond  have  convenient  boarding  houses, 
and  several  other  of  the  inhabitants  also  open  their 
dwelling  for  the  accommodation  of  summer 
residents.  (Keene  P.  0.)  At  Keene  village,  and 
Jay  village  will  be  found  comfortable  hotels. 
Bedee's  is  about  four  miles  above,  at  the  head  at  the 
fla-ts.  Approaching  the  Au  Sable  Ponds  from 
the  vallev,  we  enter  the  vestibule  to  this  vast 
sanctuary  of  nature,  which  in  all  its  grandeur 
and  silence  expands  on  every  side.  Decade  of  miles 
succeeds  decade  as  we  penetrate  its  recesses ;  the 
forest  is  interminable;  the  mountains  ascend 
around  us  in  countless  peaks.  The  sportman,  he 
who  would  combine  comfort  with  relaxation,  may 
seek  the  Adirondacks  where  civilization  mingles 
with  the  savage  ;  but  if  he  would  contemplate  them 
in  their  glory,  their  solitudes  and  desolation,  he 
should  advance  deep  into  the  wilderness,  where  he 
finds  no  impress  of  the  presence  of  man.  The  wa- 
ters are  thronged  with  fish,  but  the  solitariness  of 
the  scene  is  little  relieved  by  other  animated  nature. 
The  deer  usually  seek  more  congenial  feeding 
grounds ;    the  bear  is  occasionally  encountered, — 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


01 


the  panther  rarely  ;  ami  the  deserts  are  not  favorite 
resorts  of  the  smaller  animals.  These  wilds  were 
formerly  the  abode  of  the  moose,  where  it  rejoiced 
in  the  abundance  of  its  choicest  food,  the  mountain 
ash  and  striped  maple,  but  thehuf^e  animal  no  lon- 
ger stalks  anu)ng  these  mountains, — it  is  extinct. 
Birds  of  song  are  not  found,  except  on  the  confines 
of  civilized  life.  Desolation,  silence  and  solitude 
maintain  their  primeval  empire.  When  the  wind  is 
hushed,  the  silence*  of  tiie  wilderness  is  alone  bro- 
ken by  the  music,  at  times,  of  some  little  cascade,  the 
rippling  of  a  tiny  rill,  or  the  deep  cadences  of  a 
roaring  and  dashing  torrent.  The  strange  tranquil- 
lity of  these  solitudes  is  a  marked  characteristic  that 
will  be  felt  by  the  explorer,  and  will  imjiress  and 
thrill  his  mind.  This  profound  silence,  is  a  still- 
ness, awful  by  its  intensity.  The  absence  of  animal 
life  upon  these  mountains  will  be  observed  by  the 
explorer.  The  author  ascending  White  Face  in  the 
autumn,  saw  no  living  creature  save  a  solitary  red 
s(piirrel,  and  small  butterily  that  had  undoubtedly 
been  wafted  there  bv  the  wind.  About  four  miles 
from  the  vallev  we  reiich  the  An  Sable  Ponds,  but 
before  visiting  them,  one  or  two  natural  curiosities 
should  not  be  passed. 

The  Hainbow  Falls.— This  remarkable  cas- 
cade is  situated  in  Keene,  within  a  mile  of  these 
ponds,  and  forms  a  striking  feature  of  that  wild, 
picturesque  region.  It  is  upon  Rainbow  brook,  a 
snnill  tributary  of  the  south  branch  of  the  An  Sable 
river.  The  fall  is  computed  from  careful  observa- 
tion to  be  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  in  sheer 
vertical  descent.  The  site  is  separated  from  the 
Keene  flats,  the  nearest  human  residence,  by  a  dense 
forest  three  or  four  miles  in  extent,  and  is  hidden  in 
the  recesses  of  the  vast  wilderness  of  the  Adiron- 


I  , 


i 


D2 


THE      ADIHOXDACKS. 


dacks.  It  has  but  lately  been  revealed  to  general 
knowledge.  The  falls  are  at  present  only  accessible 
by  a  path  through  the  forest ;  but  they  have  already 
excited  the  attention  of  the  artist  and  explorer,  and 
it  is  in  contenii^lation  to  immediately  open  by  con- 
venient roads,  a  district  that  will  be  regarded  not 
among  the  least  attractive  or  interesting  in  the 
Adirondack  region,  to  the  sportsman  and  the  wor- 
shiper of  nature,  in  her  secluded  temples. 

Not  far  from  the  Rainbow  Falls,  upon  the  branch 
of  the  Roaring  brook,  and  hidden  among  the  cliffs 
and  forests,  another  cascade  will  be  found,  if  possi- 
ble still  more  impressive  and  remarkable.  There  is 
in  reality  two  falls  in  connection:  one  leaps  over  a 
vertical  precipice  into  the  deep  gorge ;  the  other 
rushes  down  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  a  rapid 
descent,  along  a  groove  five  feet  in  depth,  which  by 
the  force  of  the  water  has  been  worn  into  the  solid 
rock. 

Another  object  of  exceeding  interest,  situated,  not 
remote  from  the  Au  Sable  Ponds,  may  appropriately 
be  noticed  in  this  connection. 


"  The  Hunter's  Pass."  This  gorge  lies  in  the  town 
of  North  Hudson,  and  is  formed  by  the  deep,  parallel 
precipices  of  Dix's  Peak  and  Nipple  top,  which  are 
among  the  highest  and  most  sequestered  mountains 
of  the  Adirondacks.  It  has  great  similitude  to  the  In- 
dian Pass,  and  is  second  only  to  that  amazing  exhi- 
bition in  its  sublime  and  imposing  features.  This 
pass  is  rarely  penetrated,  even  by  the  hunter,  and  at 
a  very  late  period  only  has  been  visited  for  the  spe- 
cific purpose  of  exploration.  It  is  buried  several 
miles  deeper  in  the  mazes  of  these  forests  and  moun- 
tains than  the  Au  Sable  ponds  or  Rainbow  falls,  but 
is  sufficiently  near  these  points  to  enhance  the  attrac- 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


93 


not 
lately 


tion  of  tlie  district,  when  it  shall  have  become  a  new 
object  of  interest  and  resort.  The  scene  can  now 
only  be  reached  by  the  severest  toil  of  several  miles, 
(but  the  feat  has  been  achieved  by  brave  and  delicate 
woman,)  and  when  this  is  accomplished,  the  dense 
forest,  the  masses  of  rocks,  their  mosses  and  their 
debris,  gathered  for  ages,  render  the  gorge  almost 
impenetrable. 

The  new  and  successive  revelations  which  are 
constantly  occurring  in  the  physical  aspect  of  the 
Adirondacks,  illustrate  the  profound  seclusion  and 
great  extent  of  the  AVilderness,  and  warrant  the 
opinion  that  other  objects  of  deep  interest  remain 
in  its  recesses,  yet  to  be  unveiled.  It  is  believed 
that  several  of  the  more  secluded  peaks  of  these 
mountains  have  never  been  ascended,  Such  views 
are  rendered  still  more  impressive  when  it  is  con- 
sidered that  many  of  these  localities,  some  of  them 
still  unexplored,  lie  within  a  hundred  miles  of  the 
Capitol  at  Albany. 


•  •• 


itains 
leln- 
exhi- 
This 
nd  at 


THE    AU  SABLE  PONDS. 


btrac- 


The  An  Sable  ponds  form  the  loftiest  as  well  as 
most  important  reservoir  of  the  South  branch  of 
the  Au  Sable  river.  Lying  [imid  the  acclivities  of 
the  Adirondacks,  and  buried  deeply  in  the  solitudes 
of  forests,  which  have  yet  scarcely  been  disturbed 
by  the  movements  of  enterprise,   these  waters  are 


94 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


II 


! 


calculated,  when  more  fully  known,  to  attract  the 
attention  of  the  tourist  and  sportsman,  by  their  sol- 
itariness, their  beauty  and  sporting  wealth.  They 
are  four  or  five  miles  from  civilized  habitations. 
Small  boats  have  been  placed  upon  them,  to  facili- 
tate access  to  Mt.  Marcy,  towards  which  they  afford 
one  of  the  most  direct  routes.  These  ponds  are 
classed  among  the  most  beautiful  lakes  of  the  re- 
gion. 

The  An  Sable  ponds  lie  on  the  same  elevated 
plateau  with  the  Boreas  Pond,  a  fountain  head  of 
the  Hudson,  and  through  a  considerable  district, 
the  surface  is  so  completely  level,  that,  it  is  said, 
during  high  water,  canoes  navigate  between  the  two 
sheets  of  water.  This  singular  arrangement  is  wor- 
thy examination. 

In  following  up  the  western  branch  of  the  Au 
Sable,  we  reach,  nine  miles  above  Au  Sable  Forks, 
Wilmington  village,  where  a  fine  water  power  sup- 
plies several  manufactories.  The  next  point  of 
interest  is 

The  Wilmington  Notch.  The  river  breaks 
through  its  mountain  barrier  in  an  exhibition  most 
thrilling  and  impressive.  The  stream,  compressed 
in  a  narrow  passage  of  a  few  feet  in  width,  becomes 
here  an  impetuous  torrent,  and  foams  and  dashes 
along  the  base  of  a  precipitous  wall  formed  by 
White  Face  Mountain,  which  towers  above  it  in 
nearly  a  vertical  ascent  of  thousands  of  feet,  while 
on  tlie  other  side  it  almost  laves  the  abrui)t  and 
rugged  crags  of  another  lofty  precipice.  Bursting 
through  this  obstacle,  the  river  leaps  into  an  abyss 
of  more  than  one  hundred  feet  in  depth,  so  dark 
and  impervious  from  mantling  trees  and  impending 
rocks,  that  the  eye  cannot  penetrate  its  hidden 
caverns.    The  road  to  North  Elba,  wliich  has  been 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


95 


recently  constructed  through  the  gorge,  renders  this 
remarkable  spot  easily  accessible  to  the  tourist,  and 
we  can  fancy  few  scenes  more  attractive  by  their 
wild  and,  romantic  beauty,  or  by  their  stern  and 
appalling  grandeur. 

Near  the  Notch,  upon  rocks  which  form  the  bank 
of  the  river,  a  singular  deposit  of  native  copperas 
exists,  which  may  be  scraped  off  in  large  quantity. 
The  curious,  or  the  naturalist,  who  examines  this 
formation,  will  be  inclined  to  trace  out  the  "  Cop- 
peras Pond,"  which  lies  high  up  Promontory  moun- 
tain, east  of  the  place,  and  is  strongly  impregnated 
with  the  salt.  Various  other  objects  of  interest  are 
profusely  scattered  about  White  Face, — such  as  the 
palasades,  lofty  hills,  and  dashing  cascades:  the  im- 
press of  an  Indian's  foot-print.  The  intelligent 
landlords  will  indicate  all  these. 

Soon  after  passing  this  interesting  locality,  the 
tourist  will  reach  Lake  Placid,  by  diverging  a  little 
from  the  highway.  It  is  situated  principally  in 
North  Elba,  and  just  touches  that  beautiful  plateau 
in  the  peerless  landscape  of  which  it  forms  a  con- 
spicuous and  very  essential  feature.  Its  great  ex- 
panse, its  deep  and  transparent  waters,  its  beautiful 
proportions,  stretching  its  sinuosities  along  bold 
headlands  far  into  the  recesses  of  the  mountains, 
until  in  the  distant  view  its  waters  seem  to  lave  the 
base  of  White  Face,  although  in  fact  separated  from 
it  by  a  rich  valley  of  two  miles  in  width,  unite  to 
render  Lake  Placid  one  of  the  most  delightful  and 
attractive  objects  in  this  land  of  loveliness  and 
silence.  A  small  pond  connects  with  the  lake  by  a 
narrow  channel.  This  pond  has  no  other  inlet  or 
outlet,  and  is  distinguished  by  a  singular  movement. 
The  water  flows  for  a  period  of  two  or  three  minutes 
from  the  lake  into  the  pond ;  an  interval  of  a  few 


[I 


tf 


96 


THE      ADIRO>'DACKS. 


!  i 


seconds  succeeds,  with  no  apparent  motion  of  the 
water ;  after  this,  for  the  same  time,  it  flows  back 
again  into  tlie  lake.  This  ebbing  and  flowing  is,  I 
believe,  perpetual.  Lake  Placid  is  one  oi  the  most 
important  heads  of  the  Au  Sable  river.  The  manu- 
facturing interest  on  the  line  of  that  stream  has 
erected,  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  an  expensive  and 
ponderous  dam.  This  work  forms  the  lake  into  a 
capacious  reservoir,  and  secures  a  permanent  supply 
of  water,  at  most  seasons,  to  the  immense  Avorks 
moved  by  the  Au  Sable. 

Five  miles  farther,  we  stop  at  Scott's,  the  most 
prominent  resort  to  tourists  in  this  section  of  North 
Elba,  where  comfortable  accommodations  may  be 
had,  and  intelligent  directions  obtained  in  regard  to 
the  surrounding  region.  It  lies  almost  beneath  the 
shadow  of  the  Adirondacks. 

The  former  farm  and  home  of  John  Brown  are 
immediately  contiguons  to  Scott's.  This  property 
has  been  purchased  by  a  company  organized  by  the 
earnest  effbrts  of  Miss  Kate  Field,  with  a  view  of 
holding  it,  in  perpetuity,  as  a  memorial  of  an  mo- 
mentous event  in  our  national  history.  The 
original  proprietors  are  Miss  Kate  Field,  Isaac  H. 
Bailey,  John  E.  Williams,  William  II.  Lee,  Geo.  A. 
liobbins,  G.  C.  Ward,  Henry  Clews,  D.  R.  Martin, 
LeGrand  B.  Cannon,  Chas.  A.  Smith,  S.  B.  Chitten- 
den, Isaac  Sherman,  J.  S.  Schultz,  Elliot  C.  Cowden, 
Thomas  Murphy,  Chas.  G.  Judson,  Salem  H.  Wales, 
Sinclair  Toucey,  and  Horace  C.  Claflin. 

The  grave  of  Brown  is  visible  from  the  road,  and 
pilgrimages  will  be  long  directed  to  it,  not  only  by 
sympathizers  in  his  sentiments  but  by  the  curious, 
and  the  interest  excited  by  his  extraordinary  career. 

The  town  of  North  Elba  will  alwavs  entrance  the 
tourist  by  the  extreme  affluence  of  its  natural  beau- 


ti  of  the 
ws  back 
ing  is,  1 
lie  most 
B  niaiiu- 
?am  lias 
ive  and 
3  into  a 
;  supply 
I  works 

le  most 
I'  Xorth 
may  be 
gard  to 
[ith  the 

wn  are 
roperty 
by  the 
iew  of 
m  mo- 
The 
aac  H. 
Jeo.  A. 
fartin, 
litteii- 
'wden, 
^Vales, 

1,  and 

iiy  by 

rions, 
career. 
3e  the 
beau- 


John  Brown's  Grave,  North  Elba. 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


97 


ties,  ill  which  it  is  not  surpassed  and  scarcely  ap- 
proached by  any  other  section  of  the  state.  The 
gigantic  amphitheatre  of  mountains,  which  almost 
encircle  the  town,  form  in  its  outline  an  arc  of 
nearly  sixty  miles  in  extent,  and  embraces  within 
this  area  a  territory  of  about  one  hundred  square 
miles.  Upon  the  west,  the  plains  of  North  Elba 
mingle  with  that  vast  plateau,  teeming  with  rivers 
and  lakes  and  forests,  which  spread  to  the  shores  of 
the  St.  Lawrence.  The  grandeur  and  imposing  beauty 
of  these  mountain  bulwarks,  which,  singularly 
blending  with  a  landscape  of  lakes  and  rivulets,  vales 
and  hills,  combine  to  form  a  scenery  of  transcendent 
loveliness  and  magnificence.  From  one  position, 
the  eye  gazes  on  tlie  lofty  group  of  the  Adirondack 
mountains.  Mt.  Marcy  stands  out  in  his  perfect 
contour  and  vast  dimensions.  *  Mt.  Mclntyre  and 
McMartin,  trace  their  outlines  upon  the  horizon, 
and  far  towards  the  south-west,  the  group  of  Mt. 
Seward  limit  the  view ;  on  the  north,  the  White 
Face  envelopes  the  plain,  and  on  the  east,  tower  the 
dark  and  rugged  cliffs  of  the  Keone  mountains. 

The  western  branch  of  the  Au  Sable  river  flows 
through  the  town,  and  nearly  the  whole  distance 
along  a  wide  alluvial  valley,  almost  as  broad,  and 
apparently  of  fertility  equal  to  the  fiats  of  the  Mo- 
hawk river.  Near  Edmonds'  Pond,  a  few  miles 
from  Scott's,  is  a  spot  that  will  repay  a  prolonged 
inspection.  In  the  bed  of  a  little  brook  which 
leaps  down  a  slide  formed  some  years  ago  by  an 
avalanche,  innumerable  minerals  sparkle  and  glow 
in  every  direction.  High  up  the  precipice  occur  a 
series  of  caves,  which  are  the  deposits  of  varied  gems 
and  minerals,  and  in  beauty  and  variety  of  their 
material,  almost  rival  the  stories  of  eastern  caverns. 
Here  is  found  calcareous  spar,  of  various  colors,  and 


I 


t  J 


98 


LAKE      CHAM  PLAIN. 


crystals  of  epidote,  coccoline  and  horn-blend.  Tlie 
scientific  explorer  would  enjoy  in  this  locality  a  rich 
and  delightful  field. 

About  seven  miles  from  Scott's,  the  tourist  may 
penetrate  through  the  wilderness  to  a  scene  that  is 
ranked  among  the  natural  curiosities  of  the  world. 
Standing  amid  its  solitude  and  silence,  and  contem- 
plating its  vast  proportions,  its  solemn  majesty 
the  novelty  of  its  aspect  and  its  mystic  ^rmatiou, 
an  enduring  influence  is  impressed  on  the  mind, 
that  is  not  even  transcended  by  the  wonders  and 
glories  of  Niagara. 

The  Ixdiax  Pass. — The  mighty  convulsions 
which  have  upheaved  the  lofty  mountains  of  this 
region,  or  rent  asunder  the  barriers  that  enclosed 
the  seas,  which  washed  their  cliffs,  have  left  impres- 
sive vestiges  of  their -power,  in  the  striking  natural 
phenomena  spread  over  the  country.  None  of  these 
afford  more  wonderful  exhibitions  of  those  terrific 
agencies,  or  more  imposing  beauty  and  magnifi- 
cence, than  a  remarkable  gorge,  known  as  the  In- 
dian pass,  in  the  impressive  aboriginal  Otneyarh, 
the  Stony  Giants.  It  occupies  a  narrow  ravine, 
formed  by  a  rapid  acclivity  of  Mt.  Mclntyre  on  one 
side,  rising  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees,  and  on 
the  opposite,  by  the  dark  naked  wall  of  a  vertical  prec- 
ipice, towering  to  an  altitude  of  eight  hundred  to 
one  thousand  two  hundred  feet  from  its  base,  and 
extending  more  than  a  mile  in  length.  The  base 
itself  is  elevated  about  two  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  above  tide  water.  The  deep  and  appalling 
gorge  is  strewn  and  probably  occupied  for  several 
hundred  feet,  with  gigantic  fragments  hurled  into 
it  from  the  impending  cliffs,  by  some  potent  agency. 
The  elements  still  advance  the  process.  So  exact 
and  wonderful  is  the  stupendous  masonry  of  this 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


99 


bill  wail',  that  it  seems,  could  human  nerve  allow 
the  effort,  a  ntone  dropped  from  the  summit,  might 
reach  the  base  without  striking  an  impediment. 
The  pencil  cannot  portrny,  nor  language  describe, 
the  awful  grandeur  and  sublimity  of  this  spectacle. 
The  deep  seel u.-ii on,  the  wild  8olitr.de  of  the  place, 
awe  and  impress.  Many  miles  from  iuinian  habita- 
tion, nature  here  reigns  in iur  primitive  silence  and 
repose.  The  heavy  forests  that  clothe  the  steeps  of 
Mclntyre,  and  shroud  the  broken  and  confused 
masses  of  rock  in  the  gorge,  add  to  the  gloom  and 
solemnity  of  these  dark  ivccsses.  A  tiny  rivulet 
just  starting  from  its  birthplace  amid  these  solitudes, 
chafes  and  frets  along  its  rocky  passage,  in  its  course 
to  the  Iludson,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ra- 
vine is  discharged  one  of  the  highest  affluents  of 
the  An  Sable,  while  from  a  pond  on  the  summit  of 
the  cliff,  a  small  stream  Hows  into  the  Kaquette, 
seeking  the  St.  Lawrence. 

In  this  vicinity,  a  remarkable  gorge  occurs 
between  Pitch-off  and  Long  Pond  mountains,  two 
very  striking  peaks  lying  near  and  parallel  to  cjidi 
other.  This  is  a  narrow  defile  embraced  by  nearly 
perpendicular  walls  a  thousand  feet  in  height.  At 
its  base  lie  the  romantic  Edmonds  Ponds,  referred  on 
a  preceding  page.  Between  these  ponds  and  Pitrli- 
off  mountain  Ji  most  picturesque  road  winds  lor 
several  miles,  and  connects  with  the  highway  near 
Scott's.  Mt.  Marcy  is  frequently  ascended  from 
Xorth  Elba. 


»■       «      • 

>    1    »      .     < 


»     )    V    J 
«    O  4     I  • 


1 


100 


THE      ADIIIOXDACKS. 


isv 


The  Northern  Wilderness. 


This  remarkable  region  has  not,  until  compara- 
tively a  recent  period,  elicited  any  great  degree  of 
attention  from  the  tourist  or  explorer.  The  mind 
does  not  readily  accept  the  fact,  that  a  territory  nearly 
equal  in  size  to  half  the  State  of  Vermont  and  about 
the  same  superficial  area  as  Connecticut,  lies  in  tlie 
bosom  of  New  York,  touching  on  one  extremity 
the  long  occupied  and  densely  populated  valley  of 
the  Mohawk,  and  encircled  by  a  highly  cultivated 
and  matured  country,  is  still  shrouded  by  its  prime- 
val forests,  and  remains  almost  as  it  came  from  the 
.hands  of  its  Creator.  This  territory  embraces  nearly 
all  Hamilton  county,  and  parts  of  Herkimer,  Onei- 
da, Lewis,  St.  Lawrence,  Franklin,  Essex,  and  War- 
ren, and  extends  over  one  hundred  miles  in  length, 
and  about  eighty  miles  in  breadth. 

Nature  reigns  in  this  Avilderness,  in  her  original 
repose  and  isolation.  The  daring  hunter  alone  for- 
merly penetrated  its  mazes  in  pursuit  of  its  savage 
denizens,  the  moose,  the  bear,  tlio  panther,  and  deer. 
The  fisherman,  whose  ardor  lead  him  into  the  deep 
recesjSt's'of  ,tlAe'i'':''est!  bro'we  ti\e.  riaiot  slumber  of 
these  Take's  .md  Mvcrs,  but  within  the  boundaries  of 
this  'Sequestered  reolon,  man  ]i.isV  scarcely  an 
ubqde,  iii,  his  civili.r.ftion-  and  impro>^ements.  A 
portion  of  this  territory  is  mountainous,  and 
impracticable  to    culture.      The   sheer  and  lofty 


THE      ADIHONDACKS, 


101 


precipice,  the  diisliing  torront,  the  s^ylviin  lake 
uud  the  boundless  ocean  of  forest,  combine  to  form 
a  scenery,  which  is  unrivaled  in  its  magnificence 
and  beauty.  The  \otaries  and  admirers  of  nature 
will  learn  to  visit  these  scenes,  and  will  gaze  on 
them  with  wonder  and  delight. 

Travellers  have  sometimes  attempted  to  assimi- 
late this  region  to  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  but 
the  resemblance  to  their  magnificent  features,  in 
Scottish  scenery,  is  only  in  miniature.  The  bril- 
liant work  of  Mr.  Murray  contains  a  passage  from 
the  letter  of  an  artist  in  Europe,  most  just  and  ap- 
preciative of  the  Adirondacks.  "  Having  travelled,'' 
he  says,  *'  over  all  Switzerland,  and  the  Khine  and 
the  Rhone  region,  1  have  not  met  with  scenery 
which,  judged  from  a  purely  artistic  point  of  view, 
combined  so  many  beauties  in  connection  with  such 
grandeur,  as  the  lakes,  mountains  and  forests  of  the 
Adirondack  region  present  to  the  gazer's  eye.'' 

This  wilderness  is  distinguished  for  the  healthi- 
ness of  its  clirtiate.  There  prevails  in  the  atmos- 
phere, which  envelo^.s  these  mountains,  a  pureness, 
an  elasticity  and  vitality  that  impart  health,  and 
afford  an  indescribable  physical  enjoyment  in  the 
mechanical  process  of  inspiration ;  the  lungs  are 
filled,  and  perform  their  functions  without  efl\3rt  or 
labor.  In  our  explorations  of  the  country,  we  have 
met  with  repeated  instances  of  individuals,  who  had 
reached  their  forest  homes,  in  advanced  stages  of 
pulmonary  affection,  in  whom  the  disease  had  been 
arrested,  and  the  sufferer  restored  to  comparative 
health.  They  uniformly  imputed  the  change  to 
the  influence  of  the  atmosphere,  and  to  the  sooth- 
ing and  invigorating  effect  of  the  peculiar  property 
referred  to.  No  invalid  enter  these  solitudes  without 
experiencing  upon  his  system   this   strengthening 


ii 


.11 


\i 


it 


103 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


!    ;> 


ji 


and  renovating  influence.  The  atmosphere  can  be 
impregnated  by  no  noxious  miasmas,  but  is  poured 
down  from  the  summits  of  these  stately  mountains, 
fresh  and  pure,  and  life-giving  as  it  comes  from  the 
laboratory  of  nature.  It  is  charged  with  an  exuber- 
ance of  oxygen,  and  the  liealth  inspiring  aroma  of 
the  Balsam,  the  Hemlock  and  Pine,  which  impart 
their  delightful  effects. 

We  do  not  contemplate  a  description  of  the  geogra- 
phical arrangement  of  this  territory,  nor  to  present 
a  specific  account  of  its  varied  landmarks,  but 
merely  propose,  (as  more  attractive  to  the  reader,) 
to  exhibit  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  region,  that 
its  general  aspects,  and  its  peculiar  objects  of  beauty 
and  interest  may  be  understood.  We  shall  also 
briefly  indicate  the  diflerent  avenues  by  whicli  the 
Wilderness  may  be  reached. 

It  is  projier  to  observe  that  the  boundaries  of  this 
wild  and  primitive  region  are  irregular,  and  not 
embraced  in  exact  and  defined  lines.  At  some 
points,  improvement  has  pierced  deeply  into  its  ter- 
ritory, and  at  others,  the  forest  and  mountains  pre- 
serve their  original  domain  in  the  midst  of  a  culti- 
vated district.  In  portions  of  Essex  county  the 
Adirondack's  penetrate  deeply  in  the  midst  of  a 
highly  cultivated  region,  often  approaching  Lake 
Champlain,  and  in  some  instances  only  arrested  by 
its  waters.  Nothing  connected  with  these  scenes 
so  impresses  the  mind  with  amazement  and  incredu- 
lity, as  the  fact,  that  thus  closely  environed  by  pro- 
gress and  culture,  many  sections  of  this  wilderness 
have  probably  never  been  pro^ssed  by  the  foot  of 
civilized  man,  and  that  numerous  mountains  have 
not  yet  been  ascended.  Another  circumstance  adds 
anew  feature  to  the  strangeness  of  these  views:  the 
evidences  arc  quite  conclusive,  that  the   interior 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


103 


parts  of  this  desert  were  as  well  known  a  century 
ago,  as  they  now  are.  It  is  certain  that  the  wilder- 
ness was  habitually  traversed,  and  probably  by  well 
defined  avenues  during  the  Revolution.  The  track 
of  ancient  pathways  may  still  be  traced,  and  the 
mouldering  vestiges  of  bridges  and  other  labrics  are 
apparent  far  in  the  mazes  of  t'nese  forests  and 
lakes.  The  evidences  are  varied  and  ample,  that 
this  territory  at  an  early  period  was  the  abode  of  a 
large  aboriginal  population,  attracted  to  it  by  the 
immunity  it  afforded  from  hostile  attacks,  and  by 
the  profusion  of  its  game  and  fish. 

The  physical  arrangement  of  the  Wilderness  is  as 
marked  and  striking  as  the  whole  Adirondack 
rearion  is  fascinatino-  and  wonderful.  The  features 
of  plain,  of  lakes  and  mountains  are  seldom  promis- 
cuously blended,  but  each  lineament  is  measurably 
separate  and  distinct.  In  the  southwesterly  por- 
tion lies  the  "John  Brown  Tract,"'  the  most  repul- 
sive and  uninteresting  of  all  the  Wilderness.  It  com- 
prises a  district  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand acres,  of  low  table  land.  No  lofty  mountains 
impart  majesty  to  the  scene ;  few  sparkling  lakes 
and  beautiful  streams  gladden  or  relieve  its  desDla- 
tion.  Centrally,  a  long  wide  pleateau  is  pre-emi- 
nently the  region  of  fountains  and  ponds,  of  lakes 
and  rivers.  In  the  eastern  section,  an  infinitude  of 
mountains  raise  their  rugged  peaks  tot^ie  sky. 


104 


THE      ADIROXnArKS. 


LAKES    AND   PONDS. 


t, ., 


We  cannot  attempt  to  arrange  even  a  naked  cata- 
logue of  the  multiplicity  of  Ponds  and  Lakes  that 
characterize  this  region.  We  propose  to  notice 
some  of  the  larger  and  more  interesting  of  the  num- 
ber, to  convey  a  general  idea  of  the  wonderful 
arrangement  of  the  whole.  The  prominent  lakes  form 
receptacles  for  the  waters  of  the  countless  ponds  and 
smaller  lakes  that  are  grouped  on  tlie  plateau,  and 
become  themselves  the  reservoirs  wliicli  supply  more 
than  one-half  the  rivers  of  the  State.  The  (lod  of 
nature  created  this  peculiar  and  secluded  region  a 
vast  watershed,  and  its  value  is  incalculable,  not 
only  that  it  pours  forth  from  these  solitudes  streams 
that  adorn  and  fertilize  the  country,  but  from  its 
influence  upon  tlic  commerce  and  industry  of  the 
State. 

These  lakes,  although  they  often  nearly  touch 
each  other,  and  mingle  their  waters,  and  the  little 
streams  that  feed  them,  in  their  involutions  are  so 
mixed  that  they  can  scarcely  be  distinguished,  are 
yet  arranged  in  distinct  systems.  It  is  stated  that 
the  same  pools  discharge  wrfters  seeking  in  different 
direction  the  Hudson  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  which 
reach  the  ocean  more  than  a  thousand  miles 
asunder. 

The  sources  of  the  Moose  and  Beaver  rivers,  which 
are  the  main  tributaries  of  the  Black  river,  that 


THE      ADIRONDAOKS. 


105 


oiicli 

1  little 

ire  so 

|1,  are 

that 

irent 

^hich 

hiiles 

rhicli 
that 


empties  into  Lake  Ontario,  are  in  the  system  of 
which  the  Moose  river  chimin  of  lakes,  eight  in  num- 
ber, are  the  central  and  most  important  features. 
The  Beaver  river  rises  in  a  series  of  smaller  lakes 
still  more  remote. 

Kaquette  Lake  is  the  head  of  the  system  that 
gives  rise  to  the  Kaquette  river.  It  is  separated 
from  the  Moose  lakes  by  a  transit  less  than  a  mile 
in  length.  Kaquette  lake  is  the  largest  body  of  water 
in  the  Wilderness,  and  presents  a  shore  line  of  more 
than  ninety  miles  in  length.  It  is  elevated  nearly 
eighteen  hundred  feet  above  tide  water.  In  its  form 
it  is  singularly  irregular  and  distorted,  projecting 
deep  indentations  into  the  land  on  every  side.  To 
this  peculiarity  of  shape,  its  name  (Kaquette — 
Snow  Shoe,  Cactus,)  is  sometimes  referred.  East  of 
Kaquette  lake  stands  Blue  Mountain,  with  an  alti- 
tude of  four  thousand  feet.  At  its  base  reposes  the 
Blue  Mountain  Lake,  by  common  consent,  from  its 
purity  and  loveliness,  esteemed  tlio  pearl  of  all  the 
Wilderness  water.  This,  discharging  through  Uta- 
wana  and  Eagle  Lakes,  is  a  tributary  of  Kaquette 
Lake,  which  empties  into  Forked  Lake,  and  is  separa- 
ted from  it  by  a  carry  of  half  a  mile.  Beach  Lake  also 
discharges  into  Forked  Lake.  Kolling  onward  from 
the  latter,  the  Kaquette  river,  passing  over  various 
rapids  and  descending  Buttermilk  Falls,  caters 
Long  Lake,  sixteen  miles  in  length  and  about  two 
wide,  with  an  elevation  of  nearly  sixteen  hundred 
feet.  This  lake  is  much  admired  for  its  form  and 
purity,  and  the  mountains  by  which  it  is  environed. 
Xear  its  southern  extremity  is  Owl's  Head,  and  to- 
wards the  North  a  view  of  Mt.  Seward  is  presented. 
Xear  the  head  of  Long  Lake  a  thriving  settlement 
has  sprung  up.  The  river  debouches  from  Long 
Luke  in  a  strong  volume  of  water  and  rapid  cur- 


ii 


it 


lOG 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


^ 


rent.  A  boui  navigation  of  about  thirty  miles  now 
occurs,  interrupted  by  a  single  impediment.  The 
Raquette  Falls,  a  splendid  cascade  is  situated  about 
seven  miles  below  Long  Lake,  and  has  a  portage  of 
one  and  a  half  miles.  The  river  is  constantly  aug- 
mented by  the  tribute  of  various  streams  along  its 
course.  About  seven  miles  below  the  falls,  Stoney 
Creek  enters  it  on  the  right.  The  explorer,  by 
ascending  this  winding  stream,  and  its  tributary 
ponds  a  few  miles,  and  crossing  the  Indian  Carry, 
a  mile  wide,  will  reach  the  Upper  Saranac  Lake. 
Following  the  Raf^uettc  river  from  Stoney  Creek, 
about  twenty  miles,  he  will  be  borne  on  a  rapid  cur- 
rent, gently  and  pleasantly  through  constantly 
changing  objects  of  interest  to  Tupper's  Lake. 
This  sheet  of  water  always  excites  the  rapturous  en- 
comiums of  the  tourist.  The  Raquette  pursues  its 
majestic  course,  through  Raquette  Pond,  constantly 
receiving  accretions  from  lakes  and  ponds,  and  rolls 
along  the  Wilderness  a  rapid  and  broad  stream,  ap- 
proaching the  Mohawk  in  magnitude,  until  it 
reaches  the  abodes  of  civilization  in  St.  Lawrence 
Countv.  This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  as  it  is 
among  the  largest  and  most  important  streams, 
already  largely  devoted  to  practical  utility,  that 
have  their  birth  place  in  these  wilds.  It  is  often  and 
agreeably  descended  in  boats,  but  the  tourist,  satis- 
fied with  tracing  its  sinuosities,  may  return  by  water 
along  a  different  route,  nearly  to  the  point  where  we 
began  our  voyage.  He  will  ascend  Tupper's  Lake, 
seven  miles,  and  passing  a  short  carry  w'l)  enter 
Bog  River;  ascending  this  stream  about  three  miles, 
interrupted  by  two  carrys,  he  reaches  Round  Pond, 
and  three  and  a  half  miles  farther.  Little  Tupper 
Lake.  Traversing  this  seven  miles,  and  by  alter- 
nate carries  and  navigation,  through  Rock,  Bottle 


i^^ 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


lo: 


ap- 


and  Carry  Ponds,  he  will  gain  Little  Forked  Lake, 
from  whence,  six  miles  by  boat,  will  convey  him 
again  to  Forked  Lake.  Or,  he  may  diverge  at  Rock 
Pond  to  Salmon  Lake,  and  by  a  succession  of  exhil- 
crating  changes  of  hike,  stream  and  portage,  he  will 
be  returned  to  Raquette  Lake.  Such  are  the  strange 
and  almost  incomprehensible  ramification  and  in- 
terlocking of  these  water  systems. 

The  Oswegatchie  River  flows  from  Cranberry 
Lake,  lying  west  of  Tupper's  Lake.  A  group  of 
lakes  between  that  stream  and  the  Raquette  are  the 
sources  of  the  Grass  River.  The  St.  Regis  is  next 
east  of  the  Raquette.  The  course  of  these  streams 
is  nearly  parallel,  and  separated  from  eacli  other  by 
short  portages.  They  are  all  tributaries  of  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  St.  Regis  is,  of  all,  the  wildest  and 
most  sequestered.  It  mainly  rises  in  the  St.  Regis 
lakes  and  ponds  in  tliat  system,  and  closely 
interlaces  with  the  waters  of  the  Saranac.  It  has 
three  distinct  branches,  led  by  countless  small 
affluents.  Its  whole  course,  until  it  bursts  at 
once  into  the  cultivated  territory  of  St.  Lawrence 
county,  is  buried  in  a  dense,  unbroken  wilderness. 
Civilized  man  has  rarely  followed  its  sinuous  track. 

The  writer  has  been  favored  by  a  liighly  intelli- 
gent gentleman  of  Plattsburgh,  (Dr.  Bixby),  with 
the  examination  of  the  journal,  illustrated  by  a 
fine  panoramic  map,  of  a  party  who  descended  the 
St.  Regis  a  year  or  two  since.  It  presents  the  only 
accurate  description  of  this  most  interesting  river 
that  exists.  The  party  started  from  St.  Regis  Pond 
in  their  exploring  descent,  forcing  the  passage  tedi- 
ously through  the  overhanging  bushes,  and  logs  that 
obstructed  the  little  stream,  and  meeting  frequent 
carries  produced  by  rapids.     They  were  surprised 


'I 


108 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


m 
II 


i? 


I 


to  discover  in  a  sequestered  spot  on  the  margin  of 
the  stream  a  large  colony  of  cranes,  that  seemed  to 
have  sought  the  solitude  for  security  and  retire- 
ment. Nine  of  the  huge  nests  of  these  birds  were 
counted  upon  a  single  tree.  Soon  after  leaving  this 
abode  of  the  cranes,  the  party  encountered  a  still 
more  interesting  and  unexpected  object.  This  was 
a  colony  of  beavers.  In  the  length  of  three  miles, 
they  detected  nine  distinct  and  new-made  dams. 
The  wily  habits  of  these  wonderful  animals,  for- 
bade the  intruders  upon  their  seclusion  seeing  them, 
but  every  appearance  warranted  the  conviction  that 
it  was  an  actual  beaver  settlement,  occupied  by  liv- 
ing animals.  This  is  probably  the  only,  or  nearly 
so,  colony  of  beaver  in  the  State,  that  has  escaped 
the  cupidity  of  man.  Immediately  below  the  beaver 
dams  the  stream  receives  a  large  increase  from  the 
Bay  Pond  Creek,  which  draining  a  number  of  ponds 
and  lakes  entered  it  from  the  east.  The  river  was 
rapidly  augmented  by  the  accession  of  other  small 
streams,  and  the  navigation  became  less  difficult. 
The  course  of  the  stream  was  generally  along  high 
and  rugged  banks,  and  through  a  primitive,  dense 
forest.  This  aspect,  however,  is  occasionally  varied 
by  the  presence  of  broad  natural  savannahs,  clothed 
with  thick,  rank  grasses.  These  are  the  favorite 
resorts  of  myriads  of  deer.  The  soft  earth  was 
tracked  by  their  sharp,  tiny  hoofs,  like  a  crowded 
pasture  by  the  tread  of  sheep.  The  explorers  ob- 
served the  .absence  of  the  timidity,  that  characterizes 
the  animal  near  the  settlements  and  hunting- 
grounds.  The  foot-prints  of  the  wolf  and  panther 
were  here  and  there  noticed.  The  fish  were  found  in 
the  richest  abundance.  They  found  the  forest  formed 
by  a  majestic  growth  of  primeval  trees.  The  ever- 
greens,  particularly    the  pines,   had  attained   an 


U 


LAKE      CHAMPLAIX. 


109 


tig- 

ler 

in 

led 

Lt- 
Un 


enormous  magnitude,  but  had  been  undisturbed  by 
the  enterprise  of  the  lumberman.  The  river  is 
largely  obstructed  by  rapids  and  cascades.  Emerg- 
ing from  the  Wilderness,  the  party  reached  a  saw- 
mill, the  first  evidence  of  civilization,  six  miles 
above  Parishville,  and  from  that  place  proceeded 
over  a  good  road,  nine  miles  to  Potsdam,  where 
they  found  themselves  in  the  region  of  railroads. 
They  computed  tlie  length  of  their  voyage  by  the 
meanderings  of  the  river,  at  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty-five  miles,  and  forty  miles  in  a  direct 
line.  Nine  days  were  consumed  in  making  the 
passage.  We  have  been  minute  in  narrating  this 
experiment,  believing  that  the  enterprise  will  in- 
flame the  zeal  of  other  explorers,  by  the  novelty  and 
wildness  of  the  adventure.  The  Salmon  River, 
which  flows  through  Malone,  springs  from  lakes 
and  morasses  north  of  the  sources  of  the  St.  Regis. 
The  system  of  waters  which  orir^i nates  the  south 
branch  of  tlie  Saranac  River,  has  been  rendered  far 
more  familiar  than  the  various  systems  we  have 
traced,  by  constant  visits  and  explorations.  The 
stream  itself  passes  directly  from  its  great  reservoir, 
the  Saranac  Lakes,  into  an  open  country,  and  bear- 
ing on  its  tide  an  immense  motive  power,  unites 
near  Claybourgh  with  the  north  branch,  forming 
the  Saranac  proper,  which,  after  a  circuitous  route, 
enters  Lake  Champlain  at  Plattsburgh.  Few  streams 
in  the  State  have  proved  more  valuable  by  their  in- 
fluence upon  its  industrial  pursuits.  It  has  created 
an  avenue  by  which  countless  saw-logs  have  been 
transported  to  their  marts,  and  it  has  been  the  in- 
strumentality by  which  millions  of  wealth  have 
been  produced  to  the  country.  The  north  branch 
drains  a  cluster  of  lakes  and  ponds  north  of  the 
head  waters  of  the  St.  Regis,--u  view  of  the  maps 


M 


I:! 


■U 


■< 


1"' 

'9, 


110 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


will  indicate  that  the  sources  of  the  Sarauac  almost 
envelope  the  fountains  of  the  8t.  Regis. 

AVe  have  aimed  to  exhibit  a  general  view  of  the 
extraordinary  nature  and  combinations  of  the  wa- 
ters of  this  plateau.  We  know  of  no  more  favor- 
able method  of  impressing  their  singular  aspects 
upon  our  readers,  or  of  illustrating  the  subject, 
than  by  referring  to  an  elaborate  survey  of  that 
region,  made  by  Professor  F.  N.  Benedict,  a  quarter 
of  a  century  ago,  in  connection  with  a  scheme  to 
form  an  interior  communication  between  Jjake 
Champlain  and  the  Black  river  Canal  at  Boonville. 

The  prominent  idea  in  this  scheme,  originally 
contemplated  an  artificial  communication  between 
Port  Kent  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  BoonviUo,  on 
the  Black  river  canal.  The  system  of  lakes  in  the 
interior,  indicate  the  course,  and  were  designed  to 
form  the  route  of  this  improvement.  It  appears 
from  the  report  of  Professor  Benedict,  that  nature 
has  formed  a  practical  course  for  this:  communication, 
in  the  direct  line  from  Purmort's  rapids,  a  point  on 
the  Saranac  river  on  the  boundary  between  Essex  and 
Clinton  counties,  to  the  Moose  river,  twenty-one 
miles  from  Boonville,  with  which  the  contemplated 
navigation  must  be  connected  by  canal  or  railroad. 
This  route,  starting  from  Purmort's  rapids,  passes 
through  the  county  of  Essex,  by  the  Saranac; 
along  the  lower  and  upper  Saranac  lakes,  the 
Raquette  river.  Long,  Forked  and  Raquette  lakes, 
and  the  intervening  streams,  to  the  series  of  Moose 
river  lakes,  and  thence  down  that  stream  to  the 
western  termination.  The  track  may  be  readily 
traced  on  the  very  accurate  maps  of  this  region  re- 
cently published. 

The  following  impressive  facts  are  established  by 
these  investigations.    There  exists.  Professor  Bene- 


lac; 

the 
kes, 
oose 

the 
dily 

re- 

by 

iiie- 


THE      ADIRONDACK^. 


Ill 


diet  states,  in  this  direct  course,  a  navigation  com- 
petent to  steamers,  of  fifty-six  miles,  and  by  small 
boats  of  fifty-live  miles  further.  A  distance  only 
of  seven  and  one-fourth  miles  occurs  along  this 
route,  partially  or  entirely  interrupted  by  obstruc- 
tions, which  will  require  removing  to, complete  the 
navigation  the  whole  line  of  one  hundred  and 
eighteen  miles.  The  lateral'  navigation,  branching 
from  this  main  trunk,  formed  by  the  rivers  and 
lakes  which  are  mingled  with  those  above  enumer- 
ated, affords  an  additional  communication,  navi- 
gable by  steamers,  of  thirty-three  miles,  and  by 
small  boats  of  ten  tons  burthen,  of  thirty-eight 
miles  more,  with  an  intervening  obstruction  of  only 
one-half  mile.  The  result  shows  the  existence,  in 
that  sequestered  wilderness,  of  a  navigation  adap- 
ted to  steam  boats,  of  eighty-nine  miles,  and  to 
small  boats,  of  ninety-three  miles,  which  is  obstruc- 
ted by  natural  impediments,  interposing  in  differ- 
ent localities,*  and  embracing  in  the  aggregate,  the 
trifling  distance  of  seven  and  three-quarter  miles. 
The  total  lengtii  of  the  proposed  improvement  is 
one  hundred  and  ninety  miles.  The  obstacles 
which  exist,  chii^fly  occur  in  low  and  marshy 
ground,  and  may  be  readily  surmounted. 

The  lateral  branches  of  this  navigation,  included 
in  the  survey  of  Prof.  Benedict,  would  penetrate 
deeply  towards  the  west  into  the  forest  of  St  Law- 
rence, Hamilton  and  Franklin  countie;^,  and  on  the 
eastward  along  the  western  limits  of  Essex,  almost 
touching  the  vast  iron  masses  of  the  Adirondacks, 
and  opening  their  resources  to  the  wants  and  enter- 
prise of  the  coal  mines  of  the  west.  In  reference  to 
this  navigation,  he  says :  "•  Extensive  lines  of  small 
boat  navigation,  with  very  few  and  short  interrup- 
tions, traverse  all  considerable  sections  of  the  sur- 


i 


•fl 


-1 


I ., 


! 


112 


f 

I: 

■  F 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


face.  The  aggregate  extent  of  these  lines  is  proba- 
bly no  less  than  three  hundred  miles,  all  of  which 
could  be  rendered  navigable  for  boats  of  fifty  tons 
burthen  at  comparatively  trifling  expense." 

To  examine  this  project  in  the  Wilderness,  or  to 
trace  it  on  the  map,  will  amuse  and  instruct  the 
reader,  in  the  relations  of  a  region  that  has  no  anal- 
ogy, except  possibly  amid  the  head  waters  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  scheme  now  slumbers,  but  in  the 
exigencies  of  the  future  may  be  resumed.  As  an  epi- 
sode in  the  history  of  internal  imj)rovemonts  and 
the  varied  projects  which  have  agitated  the  })ublic 
mind,  it  is  worthy  of  perpetuation. 

No  man  has  enumerated  the  lakes,  ponds  and 
streams  of  this  region.  They  probably  reach  more 
than  a  thousand.  Thev  are  marked  bv  the  same 
characteristics  Avhich  almost  universally  prevail. 
These  waters,  enveloi^ed  by  deep  and  glorious  forests, 
are  delightfully  cool,  pure  and  transparent ;  they  are 
thronged  with  fish,  and  their  margins  are  the  graz- 
ing fields  of  myriads  of  deer.  Other  *•'  beasts  of  the 
woods''  lurk  in  the  recesses  of  tiie  Wilderness.  The 
sportsman,  who  seeks  the  deer,  in  the  abundance 
usually  associated  with  the  "Northern  Wilderness,'' 
must  pursue  them  deeper  in  the  forests  than  the 
ordinary  range  of  pleasure  tourists.  There  he  will 
find  the  tales  of  books  and  travellers  verified.  A 
volume,  which  a  few  years  ago  enlisted  universal 
attention,  by  its  sparkling  and  piquant  pages,  was 
afterwards  denounced  by  a  class  of  disappointed 
readers,  who  either  did  not  appreciate  the  spirit  of 
the  work,  or  misunderstood  its  instructions.  Instead 
of  upbraiding  the  author,  they  might  have  referred 
their  disappointment  to  personal  and  peculiar  causes. 
These  embryo  sportsmen,  ignorant  of  the  art,  fished 
and  hunted  without  science.     Their  very  numbers 


THE      ADIUOXDACKS. 


iia 


:e(l 
of 

rod 
3es. 


and  the  clamor  with  which  they  pursued  the  sport, 
had  a  tciidcnc}'  to  defeat  its  object,  by  ahirniing  the 
gunie,  and  driving  l)oth  tish  and  deer  into  more 
serjuestored  luiunts.*  The  summer  of  'G!)  was  of  an 
exi  '^])tional  character,  cokl  and  wet.  The  deer 
found  in  tiie  welling  springs  of  the  mountains,  and 
in  their  fresh  glades  an  ample  supply  of  water  and 
food,  instead  of  resorting,  as  is  usual  to  the  lakes 
and  streams,  and  the  savannahs  along  the  rivers. 
The  hotels  were  thronged,  so  far  beyond  their  ca- 
pacities or  expectations,  that  they  were  unable  to 
furnish  ade(|uate  accommodations  and  desired  con- 
veniences to  their  visitors,  and  the  extortions  prac- 
ticed by  the  guides  and  boatmen, — of  which 
there  was  such  earnest  complaints, — was  due  to  the 
folly  of  sportsmen,  who  extravagantly  bid  upon  each 
other  to  secure  their  services.  A  natural  reaction  in 
the  popular  enthusiasm  for  the  Wilderness  ensued, 
and  temporarily    reduced  the  number  of  visitors. 

No  grounds  for  these  complaints  will  hereafter 
exist,  that  can  be  surmounted  by  care  and  attention. 
Hotels  and  boarding-houses  have  been  increased,  and 
much  enlarged,  and,  Avith  the  guides,  an  uniform 
and  reasonable  tariff  of  charges  established.  A  care- 
ful and  more  regular  system  will  prevail  to  secure 
the  comfort  and  entertainment  of  guests. 

This  phiteau,  at  an  elevation  of  fifteen  hundred 
to  eighteen  hundred  feet,  is  not  remarkable  for  the 
wealth  of  a  varied  or  copious  Hora,  although  aqua- 
tic and  affiliated  plants  are    often  abundant  and 

*In  the  year  referred  to,  such  nascent  sportsmen  main- 
tained a  constant  fusilade,  in  shooting  at  marlas,  not  aware 
that  they  were  driving  the  deer  into  the  forests,  or  in  cast- 
ing the  fly,  as  they  believed,  in  the  most  artistic  style, 
would  strike  the  water,  by  all  their  force  with  the  rod,  and 
then  wonder  and  complain  that  there  were  no  fish.  These 
instances  explain  our  allusion. 


II 

■Si 


114 


THE      ADIRONDACK^. 


luxuriant.  The  water  lily,  in  localities,  fills  the 
atrnosphere  with  its  fragrance;  and  the  raagnifioent 
cardinal  flower  frequently  lines  the  water  like  a  glow- 
ing fringe  of  flame.  The  "wild  green  wood"  is  always 
an  object  of  beauty  and  interest,  but  these  wilds, 
bearing  their  stately  primeval  forests,  loaded  with 
parasitic  plants,  and  draped  by  hanging  mosses  and 
mantled  by  habiliments  of  every  variegated  hue  of 
green,  are  pre-eminently  glorious.  When  in  the 
dying  year,  an  observer  looks  down  from  a  summit, 
upon  them,  clothed  in  tlieir  brilliant  and  gorgeous 
autumnal  robes,  they  are  transformed  into  a  scene 
of  almost  unearthly  splendor  and  beauty.  The 
huge  evergreens  tower  fur  above  their  deciduous 
companions  of  the  woods. 

Two  distinct  species  of  the  trout,  in  popular 
language  designated  the  lake  and  the  brook  trout, 
prevail  in  the  lakes  and  streams  of  the  interior. 
These  arc  supposed  to  ramify  into  a  number  of  va- 
rieties. They  differ  very  perceptibly  in  color  and 
appearance,  and  the  distinctions  which  science 
detects,  are  very  clear  and  marked.  The  color  of 
the  flesh,  which  is  either  red  or  white  in  both  spe- 
cies, is  not  characteristic  of  either,  but  seems  to  be 
an  individual  peculiarity.  The  lake  trout,  fierce 
and  voracious  in  its  habits,  is  the  tyrant  of  the 
waters.  It  attains  a  very  great  size,  and  specimens 
have  occasionally  been  taken,  which  weighed  fifty 
pounds.  These  are  rare,  and  fish  of  ten  to  twenty 
pounds  are  deemed  choice  sport.  The  brook  trout 
seldom  exceeds  three  pounds.  The  former  spawn 
froni  the  l*5th  to  the  25th  of  October,  and  the  brook 
trout  about  ten  days  earlier.  The  two  species  run 
in  separate  schools,  and  although  found  associated, 
they  appear  not  to  amalgamate.  The  brook  trout 
frequents  the  streams,  and  near  the  entrances  and 


-«^ 


THE      ADIROXDACKS. 


115 


irce 
the 
lens 

ifty 


outlets  of  the  lakes.  The  fry  of  both  remain  on  the 
spawning  ground  until  the  ensuing  spring.  Not- 
withstanding the  avidity  with  which  these  fish  are 
pursued,  their  marvellous  fecundity  preserves  them 
from  apparent  diminution  in  tiiese  lakes.  The  ac- 
quaintance with  men,  however,  renders  them  shy, 
and  thus  is  enhanced  the  pleasure  and  excitement 
of  the  sport,  by  exciting  additional  skill  and  perse- 
verence  ior  their  capture.  Another  fish  which  is 
generally  regarded  as  a  distinct  species  of  the  trout, 
appears  in  these  waters  late  in  the  fall.  It  is  quite 
dissimilar  in  form  and  color,  never  attains  a  great 
weight,  and  unlike  the  others,  spawns  in  the  spring. 
The  White  or  Frost  fish  appears  about  the  1st  of 
November,  near  the  outlets  of  the  lakes  or  on  shal- 
lows, in  immense  shoals.  They  never  exceed  four 
pounds,  and  are  covered  by  large  scales,  which  cleave 
from  the  body  on  the  slightest  pressure.  They 
refuse  the  hook,  however  baited,  but  are  taken  in 
large  quantities  l)y  tlie  net  or  grapple,  and  afford 
excellent  sport. 

Our  readers  are  indebted  for  the  following  highly 
interesting  account  of  trout  fishing,  to  the  brilliant 
pen  of  a  cultivated  gentleman  and  keen  sportsman, 
Mr.  Oeorge  8.  Potter,  of  Keeseville: 

TROUT   FISHING 

Among    the    Adirondacks. 

''  A  suit  of  velveteens,  soft  hat,  top  boots,  a  lot  of 
fancifully  got  up  fishing  rods,  a  willow  basket,  a 
plethoric-looking  morocco  pocket-book,  containing 
flies,  gut,  lines  and  other  paraphernalia  pertaining 
to  the  piscatorial  art :  such,  varied  according  to  the 


116 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


I-. 


taste  or  nieaus  of  the  wearer,  is  the  costume  and 
outfit  of  the  amateur  fisherman,  as  he  may  be  seen 
almost  every  day,  during  the  season,  at  the  resorts 
where  pleasure  seekers  most  do  congregate  among 
the  lakes  and  streams  shut  in  by  the  Adirondack 
range.  And  these  are  the  vandals  who  deplete  the 
waters  of  their  finny  wealth,  in  consequence  of 
which  game  laws  are  enacted  ?    Not  exactly. 

"  If  the  kindly  landlords  of  the  many  comforta- 
ble hotels  ill  these  wilds,  were  obliged  to  depend  on 
these  superbly  equipped  gentlemen  to  supply  their 
tables  with  the  speckled  beauties,  most  of  their 
guests  would  depart  minus  the  satisfaction  of  hav- 
ing made  a  ^^ sq2iare  ryicaJ-'  of  fresh  trout.  These 
establishments  keep  an  organized  corps  of  men  in 
their  employ,  who  are  thorough  woodsmen,  and 
practical  fishermen. 

"The  season  commences  immediately  after  ice  has 
left  the  streams  and  lakes  and  continues  until  navi- 
gation is  again  impeded  by  ice  in  the  later  autumn. 
The  first  sport  in  order  is  trolUng — you  (the  visi- 
tor) are  supplied  by  mine  host  with  a  boat  and 
boatman,  and  also  with  the  necessary  fishing  tackle, 
in  case  you  have  not  supplied  yourself:  the  boat- 
man catches,  or  takes  from  tlie  supply  in  the  tank 
(kept  for  the  purpose)  a  certain  number  of  "  slii- 
ners'"  or  ^' suckerSf'"  throQ  to  five  inches  in  length, 
wraps  them  in  green  leaves  or  grass,  or  puts  them  in 
a  bucket  with  ice,  to  keep  them  fresh,  and  places 
them  in  the  bow  of  his  boat  within  reach  of  his 
hand;  you  take  the  stern  seat  with  your  trolling 
rod  in  liand,  the  boatman  shoves  off  his  light  craft, 
takes  his  oars  and  pulls  steady  and  strong  until  he 
reaches  the  fishing  ground  ;  when  he  i)ause8  a  mo- 
ment and  tells  you  to  put  on  a  minnow  {tnimii/f  he 
calls  it)  and  let  go  your  line. 


t 
a 


THE      ADIHONDACKS. 


117 


ce  has 
navi- 
umn. 
Y  isl- 
and 
ackle, 
boat- 
tank 
"sJii- 
ngth, 
cm  in 
ilaces 
lof  his 
oiling 
cratt, 
til  he 
a  mo- 


"  Your  rod  is  furnished  with  a  reel  containing  sixty 
to  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  of  fine  braided  silk  or 
cable  laid  linen  line,  on  the  end  of  which  is  looped 
the  half  yard  of  gimp  carrying  the  gang  of  hooks ; 
above  which  are  the  sinkers  (if  any  sire  needed)  and 
the  rudder  of  lead  or  zinc  to  prevent  the  twisting  of 
the  line.  The  fishing  grounds  at  this  early  season 
are  near  shore,  about  rocky  islands,  or  the  edge  of 
sunken  reefs.  When  quite  ready  for  sport  the  boat- 
man pulls  raj)idly  until  sufficient  line  is  paid  out, 
then  quite  slowly. 

"  The  greedy  trout  is  attracted  by  the  bright  re- 
volving bait,  and  strikes  sharp  for  it.  Give  a  short 
spring  on  your  rod  to  Jtook  your  fish,  then  reel  in 
slow  and  steady,  keeping  the  line  always  taut  and 
relieved  by  the  spring  of  the  rod.  If  a  large  laker 
seeks  your  acquaintance,  you  may  have  to  give  him 
line ;  when  that  occurs  be  sure  he  gets  no  slacky 
and  7iever  use  a  stoj)  reel ;  your  thumb  held  on  the 
reel  is  the  only  safe  stop  or  drag.  If  the  trout  is 
small  and  pe  ceable  you  can  reel  him  in  rapidly  and 
lift  him  into  the  boat  by  the  (/im]) ;  but  if  large 
and  gamey,  you  will  need  patience,  coolness,  and  a 
gaff  or  landing  net. 

"  As  the  season  advances  and  the  water  becomes 
warm  in  the  shallows,  the  trout  seek  the  cool  depths. 
Then  you  must  troll  a  longer  line,  row  at  a  snail's 
pace,  and  put  on  sinkers  to  carry  your  bait  near  the 
bottom.  The  early  spring  is  undoubtedly  the  hest 
season  for  trolling,  but  trout  are  caught  by  experts 
in  that  manner,  every  week  while  the  water  is  free 
from  ice. 

"  Another  method  practiced,  and  that  by  which 
the  largest  weight  of  fish  is  taken,  is  called  "  hioy 
fishinf/.^'  A  stone  or  anchor  is  attached  by  a  rope  to 
a  stick  of  dry  wood,  then  sunk  in  thirty  to  sixty 


118 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


I,  it 

M 


feet  of  water,  the  billet  of  wood  marking  the  spot ; 
bait  (small  fish  cut  up)  is  scattered  about  it  to 
attract  the  trout,  and  after  a  sufficient  time  has 
elapsed,  (twelve  hours  or  more,)  the  fisherman 
attaches  his  bow  rope  to  the  buoy  stick  and  with  a 
line  in  each  hand  sits  and  bohj^.  It  is  not  exciting 
sport,  but  generally  pai/s,  and  the  position  is  favor- 
ble  to  contemplation.  Neither  of  tlie  methods  above 
described  can  be  called  artistic,  and  in  fact  flt/  fisli- 
ing  for  trout  is  the  only  one  that  has  any  just  claim 
to  that  title.  The  limits  of  tliis  article  forbid  any 
long  description  of  this  delightfully  inspiring  sport, 
nor  is  it  necessary.  Let  the  seeker  after  truth  and 
pleasure  supply  himself  with  a  copy  of  dear  old 
Izaak  Walton,  "a  well  of  pure  English  undetiled," 
and  if  he  has  a  genuine  love  for  nature  and  artistic 
sport,  he  will  rise  from  the  perusal  of  its  i)ages  a 
wiser  and  a  better  man. 

'"The  waters  adapted  to  the  tly-fisher's  art  in  this 
region  are  as  varied  as  extensive,  and  tlie  zest  for 
sport  is  constantly  kept  alive  by  the  changing  char- 
acter of  the  pastime  and  the  ever  beautiful,  ever 
shifting  panorama  nature  spreads  before  the  admir- 
ing visitor.  The  impression  is  general  that  fishing 
for  trout  with  the  artificial  fly,  can  only  be  success- 
fully practiced  during  a  very  limited  portion  of  the 
year;  this  is  a  mistake;  the  genuine  speckled  trout 
have  been  killed  in  these  waters  by  means  of  the  ar- 
tificial fly  every  month  in  the  year.  Still  the  trout 
will  not  always  rise  to  the  fly,  be  it  ever  so  daintily 
dropped  above  him,  even  during  the  best  of  the  sea- 
son, and  in  the  most  densely  populated  pool ;  and 
the  camper-out  who  takes  a  proper  pride  in  furnish- 
ing his  bark  table  witli  the  *'  vin  du  pays,"  must 
not  be  above  using  the  angle  warm,  grub,  grass-hop- 
per, small  live  shiner,  or  frog,     Some  one  of  these 


THE      ADIRONDACK^. 


110 


baits  is  sure  to  captivate  at  some  hour  duriug  the 
twenty-four. 

"  There  are  other  methods  employed  by  fjveedy 
briganch'in  defiance  of  law  and  not  worthy  the  study 
of  the  true  sportsman,  among  which  are  seineinfj, 
using  gill- nets,  spearing  and  grappling  on  the 
spawning  beds,  &c.  It  is  matter  of  great  astonish- 
ment as  well  as  regret,  that  so  many  whose  2^c(^ufii- 
ary  interest  it  is  to  preserve  the  game  in  these  for- 
ests and  waters,  should  countenance  "uch  barbarous 
slaughter." 

"  For  ways  that  are  dark, 
And  for  tricks  that  are  vain, 
This  heathen  brigand  is  peculiar  ; 
Which  the  same 
I  am  free  to  maintain." 

Notwithstanding  the  anthema  of  our  sparkling 
correspondent,  we  venture  to  notice  one  of  the 
methods  of  fishing  which  he  denounces. 

Fishing  by  torch-liglit  thoroughly  enlists  the 
enthusiasm  and  energies  of  the  fisherman.  In  a 
calm  night,  (and  if  dark  more  certain  the  success), 
the  boat  impelled  by  a  single  paddle,  glides  silently 
through  the  water,  bearing  an  iron  jack  at  the  bow, 
loaded  with  liglit  wood,  which  emits  a  briglit  flame, 
shedding  an  illumination  far  in  advance.  The 
spearsman,  with  poised  weapon,  stands  behind  the 
light,  with  full  opportunity  of  seeing  tlie  fish,  that 
sleeping  quietly,  or  attracted  by  the  gleaming  of  the 
fire,  lies  unconscious  of  danger,  and  is  easily  ap- 
proached and  killed  Every  part  of  Lake  Cliam- 
plain,  in  which  the  practice  is  largely  pursued, 
adapted  to  this  sport,  presents  at  the  season  a  bril- 
liant and  animated  aspect,  and  glowing  with  hun- 
dred of  these  fires. 

The  prevalence  of  tlie  mos(puto,  bhick  fly  and 


I 


si 


i 


I      K 


i 


li  n 


120 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


midget,  in  their  season,  is  an  exquisite  torment,  that 
largely  detracts  from  the  enjoyment  of  the  woods. 
These  pests  cannot  wholly  be  evaded,  but  the  evil 
may  be  vastly  mitigated.  This  result  is  effected  by 
securing  judicious  positions,  both  on  land  and  water, 
a  proper  location  of  rooms,  and  the  use  of  various 
applications.  The  hotel  keepers  and  guides  are 
familiar  with  these  devices,  and  will  impart  them 
to  the  visitor. 

Formerly  a  pleasant  incident  often  relieved  the 
dreariness  and  solitude  of  the  scene  in  the  winter  sea- 
son. The  ice  disappears,  in  a  greater  or  less  extent, 
from  the  outlets  after  the  lakes  are  completely  frozen 
over.  Before  their  haunts  were  disturbed  by  man's 
intrusion,  large  flocks  of  Swans  were  wont  to  con- 
gregate in  these  openings,  and  continue  there.  The 
instinct  that  directs  them  to  these  cold  and  solitary 
retreats,  cannot  well  be  explained. 

The  head  waters  of  the  Hudson  and  of  its  great 
tributary,  alone  remain  to  be  noticed.  Several  of 
the  largest  confluents  of  the  Mohawk  are  interlaced 
with  the  Moose  river  and  Raquette  systems.  The 
head  waters  of  the  Hudson  proper,  lie  chiefly  among 
the  mountains.  Its  extreme  western  fountains  are 
situated  within  a  short  distance  of  Long  Lake,  and 
their  outlet  runs  nearly  parallel  to  Cold  river,  a 
tributary  of  the  Raquette,  which  has  its  source  in 
the  Preston  Ponds,  lying  up  on  the  Adirondacks, 
between  Mt.  Seward  and  Mt.  Henderson.  The  trib- 
utaries of  the  Hudson  traverse  nearly  every  section 
of  the  south-western  part  of  Essex  county.  The 
miniature  lakes  and  ponds,  which  repose  in  almost 
every  valley  among  the  Adirondacks,  and  form  the 
head  springs  of  these  streams,  possess  indescribable 
romance  and  beauty.  Now  they  are  embraced  and 
hidden  by  dense  and  unbroken  forests,  and  now 


I 


THE      ADIROXDACKS. 


121 


b- 
ou 
he 

ost 


encompassed  by  lofty  mountains  wliose  inaccessible 
precipices  descend  into  tlieir  ^vaters  by  a  nearly 
vertical  wall,  and  now  slumbering  in  the  bosom  of 
some  lovely  and  picturesque  nook,  tlieir  mirrored 
surface,  reflecting  this  varied  scenery,  is  alone  brok- 
en by  the  leaping  of  a  trout,  the  gambols  of  a  deer, 
or,  at  far  intervals,  by  the  oar  oftlie  solitary  hunter. 
These  gentle  and  subduing  beauties  of  nature,  com- 
bined with  the  awe-imposing  and  thrilling  grandeur 
of  the  mountain  spectacles,  with  the  pure,  invig- 
orating and  health-inspiring  air  which  envelopes 
them,  must  render  these  solitudes  among  the  most 
desirable  resorts,  to  the  philoso])her,  the  invalid  and 
the  tourist  of  pleasure. 

liich  Lake,  tlie  Cludn  Lakes,  Henderson,  a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water,  that  almost  reaches  the  foot  of 
Panther  Mountain,  and  Sautanine,  discharges  into 
Lake  Sanford,  at  the  site  of  the  Adirondack  village. 
The  waters  unite  to  form  one  of  the  im})ortant 
branches  of  the  Hudson.  The  Opalescent  Kiver  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  tributaries  to  this 
stream.     Lake  Avalanclie  is  its   hio'hest   fountain. 

This  lake  is  situated  two  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Hudson,  and  is  probably  the  most  ele- 
vated body  of  water  in  the  State.  A  small  green 
lizard  is  the  only  animal  capable  of  sustaining  life 
in  its  intense  coldness.  This  lake  has  recently  been 
almost  extinguished  by  a  fresh  avalanche  that  de- 
scended into  its  bosom.  It  empties  into  Lake  Col- 
den,  and  from  that  source  the  Ojialescent  Kiver  is 
discharged  into  tlie  Hudson.  The  bed  of  this 
sti'eam,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  circum- 
stance, abounds  with  the  Opalescent  feldspar, 
and  when  the  sun  shines  upon  a  cascade  through 
the  clear  water,  the  whole  rock  glows  with  the 
effulgence  of  the  brilliant  gem.       This  beautiful 

6 


n 


123 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


M 


'I 


I 


mineral,  the  Labrodite,  was  originally  brought 
from  Labrador  by  the  Missionaries,  and  was  rare 
and  valuable.  The  hyperstene  rock  of  this  region 
is  copiously  supplied  with  it,  and  a  search  for  the 
stone  will  amaze  and  interest  the  tourist.  The 
writer  has  picked  up  fine  specimens  in  the  highway 
at  the  Adirondack  works. 

Boreas  Pond,  which  we  have  seen  often  mingles 
with  the  waters  of  the  Au  Sable,  is  the  source  of  the 
Boreas  River,  another  important  branch  of  the 
Hudson.  The  curious  student  of  animal  habits 
will  derive  great  gratification  from  visiting  on  the 
table  land,  where  these  ponds  are  situated,  the 
remarkable  relics  of  a  beaver  settlement.  Their  in- 
numerable houses  were  built  on  about  an  acre  of 
land,  as  thickly  as  they  ^ould  stand.  They  have 
been  long  extinct,  and  the  site  of  their  wonderful 
works  is  occupied  by  a  beautiful  grove  of  tamaracs. 
(0.  S.  Phelps).  Otters  are  occasionally  found  on 
these  waters. 

Schrooii  Lake,  on  the  east,  forms  the  reservoir 
to  the  waters  of  the  upper  Hudson.  The  lake  is 
ten  miles  long,  but  narrow,  and  is  distinguished  for 
its  quiet  and  romantic  beauty.  A  high  and  precip- 
itous shore  encloses  it  on  the  east,  and  on  the  west 
a  cultivated  and  charming  territory  spreads  its  fer- 
tile fields  down  to  the  very  brink. 

Paradox  lake  is  situated  in  the  same  valley,  and 
separated  from  Schroon  lake  by  a  drift  of  alluvial, 
of  apparently  modern  formation.  Paradox  lake 
occupies  the  basin  of  hills  that  environ  it  in  a 
gentle  ascent,  except  the  narrow  passage  at  its  out- 
let, which  is  a  confluent  of  the  Schroon  river,  and 
nearly  on  a  level  with  it.  The  river,  swollen  by  the 
mountain  torrents,  often  rises  higher  than  the  lake, 
and  pours  its  waters  into  the  basin,  presenting  the 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


123 


paradoxical  appearance  of  a  stream  rushing  back 
upon  its  fountain  head.  The  lake  derives,  from 
this  singular  fact,  its  unique  but  not  inappropriate 
name.  Directly  east  of  Schroon  lake,  and  elevated 
above  it  several  liundred  feet,  lies  lake  Pliaraoh,  an 
important  body  of  water,  surrounded  by  a  group  of 
dark  and  gloomy  mountains.  In  this  vicinity  clus- 
ter numerous  ponds,  the  fountain  heads  of  valuable 
streams. 


•••» 


MOUNTAINS. 


Two  marked  characteristics  of  the  Adirondacks 
will  engage  the  attention  ot  the  observer ;  the  im- 
mensity of  their  numbers,  and  their  wild  and  irreg- 
ular formation.  They  are  literally  countless.  A 
gentleman  of  unusual  practical  sagacity,  (  Mr.  Al- 
mon  Thomas,  of  Plattsburgh),  informed  the  writer, 
that  he  attempted  to  count  them  from  the  top  of 
Tahawas,  by  an  original  expedient.  Placing  a  stick 
in  front  of  his  eye,  he  ran  an  immaginary  line  along 
the  peaks  to  the  horizon,  then  moving  the  stick, 
projected  a  similar  line.  After  roughly  counting 
the  mountains  embraced  within  this  section,  he 
repeated  the  attempt,  but  after  reaching,  in  a  small 
area,  the  number  of  two  hundred,  he  abandoned 
the  experiment  as  utterly  impracticable.  They  are 
not  disposed  in  sierras  or  systematic  chains,  nor 
distinctively  in  regular  groups,  but  appear  as  if 
hurled  together  in  indiscriminate  masses  by  Al- 
mighty power,  or  projected  from  the  foundations  of 
the  earth  by  the  convulsions  of  nature.  In  some 
portions  they  stand  so  compactly  that  their  bases 
almost  start  from  each  other. 


124 


THE      ADIKONDACKS. 


In  otlior  sections  they  are  more  separate  and  soli- 
tiry.  From  the  summit  of  Mt.  Marcy,  the  broadest 
and  most  iH.'rfect  survey  of  tlic  Adirontlacks  may  be 
obtained.  No  imaginative  mind  looks  from  that 
elevation,  down  upon  the  scene,  witiiout  receiving 
the  idea  of  an  ocean  of  mountain  peaks,  lifting  up 
their  crests  upon  a  billowy  sea. 

The  slopes  of  the  Adirondacks  are  covered  nearly 
to  their  summits  by  thick  forest,  chiefly  Balsams  and 
Spruce,  with  a  mingling  of  other  trees.  The  poeti- 
cal Rowan,  or  Mountain  Ash,  is,  in  places,  abun- 
dant. The  Balsam  is  a  most  graceful  and  hardy 
tree,  and  flourishes  at  an  altitude  where  other  veg- 
etation disappears.  As  the  height  incicases,  the 
Balsam  becomes  more  and  more  dwarfed,  but  main- 
tains the  aspect  and  form  of  the  perfect  tree  in 
miniature.  The  mosses  tire  another  beautiful  fea- 
tuic  of  these  mountains.  The  foot  often  sinks 
ankle  deep  in  the  rich  vegetation  that  mantles  the 
rocks  in  its  soft  and  delicate  hues,  like  a  velvety 
carpet. 

We  have  no  space  to  describe  the  detaclied  and 
broken  ranges  of  the  Adirondacks  that  distinguish 
other  sections,  but  must  l)e  limited  to  those  moun- 
tains which  are  within  the  scope  of  our  review. 

Mount  Marcy,  the  monarch  of  these  wilds,  tow- 
ers above  the  surrounding  pinnacles,  in  a  beautiful 
peak,  and  in  one  view,  in  nearly  an  acute  apex. 
Ascending  above  every  contiguous  object,  and 
piercing  with  this  striking  formation  far  upward, 
no  one  can  contemplate  it  without  recognizing  the 
force  and  appropriateness  of  its  name,  in  the  ener- 
getic aiul  beautiful  nomenclature  of  the  Indians. 
They  called  the  towering  mountain  projecting  its 
acute  top  toward  the  heavens,  Tahawas,  Tlie  Cloud- 
SpJitter.    The  height  of  this  mountain  is  live  thou- 


THE      ADIKONDACKS. 


125 


sand  four  liiindred  and  sixty-seven  feet  above  tide 
water.  Mt.  Marcy  is  ascended  from  various  poiuts. 
We  have  indicated  several,  and  will  add,  tliat  from 
the  Adirondack  works,  the  distance  to  the  summit  is 
about  seven  miles.  A  spring  wells  up  on  the  very 
pinnacle,  near  a  rude  monument  of  rough  stone, 
erected  by  Mr.  Henderson,  whose  tragic  death  soon 
after,  not  f\ir  from  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
excited  so  profound  a  sensation.*  Geologists  will 
examine  with  interest  large  boulders  lying  detached 
near  the  to}),  and  which  apparently  never  had  any 
connection  with  tlie  rock  of  the  mountain. 

Our  readers  would  derive  small  gratification  from 
a  minute  description  of  all,  even  the  loftiest  peaks, 
which  may  be  traced  from  the  top  of  Tahawas. 
Mt.  McMartin,  contiguous  to  it,  falls  a  little  below 
Mt.  Marcy  in  height,  but  perhaps  surpasses  it  in 
massive  and  imposing  magnificence,  and  exhibits  a 
compact  and  ponderous  structure.  Bartlet  moun- 
tain is  in  the  north,  impending  over  the  Au  Sable 
Ponds,  and  marked  by  its  sharp  cone.  The  Gothic 
ascends  in  three  naked,  but  less  lofty  peaks,  in  the 
south-east.  In  the  south-west,  appears  the  Sky- 
light, with  its  clear  and  graceful,  round  cone,  gen- 
erally pronounced  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the 
Adirondacks.  In  the  eastern  direction,  is  the  Giant 
of  the  valley,  Dix  peak,  Vial,  Nipple  Top,  and 
numerous  other  peaks,  which  in  a  different  region, 
would  be  regarded  as  lofty  pinnacles.  Away  in  the 
distance,  near  Long  Pond,  will  be  observed  Mt. 
Goodenow,  and  directly  south  of  this,  Mt.  Joseph, 

*  He  was  almost  instantly  killed  by  the  accidental  dis- 
cbarge of  a  pistol,  while  exploring  the  forest  with  a  single 
guide  and  little  son.  A  simple,  though  elegant  monument, 
has  been  raised  to  his  memory,  by  his  children,  at  Calamity 
Pond,  the  scene  of  the  catastrophe.  It  was  executed  abroad, 
and  borne  by  manual  power  to  the  secluded  spot. 


^ 


H 


' 


I 


■i 


12G 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


which  exhibits  decided  evidences  of  an  extinct  volca- 
no, and  bears  on  its  very  apex,  a  lake  almost  fathom- 
less. Far  to  the  north-west  tower  the  peaks  of 
Mt.  Seward,  more  than  four  thousand  feet  in  height. 
The  region  that  surrounds  and  spreads  about  the 
base  of  this  mountain,  is  far  tlie  most  desolate  and 
savage  of  any  portion  of  tiie  Adirondacks,  and  has 
been  rarely  explored.  It  was  known  to  the  Indians 
as,  Caugh-sa-va-geh,  the  *•  Dismal  Wilderness." 

A  lofty  range  known  as  the  Keene  mountains, 
presents  a  peculiar  aspect ;  dark,  broken  and  frown- 
ing. The  AVhite  Face  mountain,  in  ihe  nuijestic 
Indian  dialect  Waho-partenie,  an  eminence  of  about 
five  thousand  feet,  stands  remote  from  the  other 
groups,  and  occujnes  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
huge  mountain  belt  that  encircles  tiie  toAvn  of 
Korth  Elba.  This  peak,  from  its  rare  and  admira- 
ble proportions,  its  bald  summit,  solitary  isolation, 
and  the  vast  pre-eminence  of  its  height  aboA  "  sur- 
rounding objects,  is  a  beautiful  and  conspicuous 
land-mark,  over  a  wide  horizon.  It  is  perhaps  the 
most  impressive  and  imposing  of  all  the  Adiron- 
dacks. A  few  years  since  it  presented  a  spectacle 
of  unequalled  sublimity.  In  the  heat  and  drought 
of  midsummer,  the  combustible  materials  upon  its 
summit  were  fired  by  accident  or  design,  and  dur- 
ing one  whole  night  the  conflagration  raged,  exhib- 
iting to  the  gaze  of  hundreds,  almost  the  splendor 
and  awfulness  of  a  volcanic  eruption  in  iis  wild 
vehemence.  A  convenient  road*  has  been  construc- 

*The  proprietor  of  the  "  White  Face  Mountain  House  " 
with  an  enterprise  that  claims  remuneration,  ha-  also  erec- 
ted near  the  top  of  the  mountain,  a  block-house,  furnished 
with  the  necessary  appliances  to  secure  the  comfort,  and 
capable  of  affording  sleeping  accomodations  for  ^  respectable 
number  of  visitors. 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


127 


ted  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  from  which  a 
magnificent  view  is  commanded  over  a  wide  expanse 
of  territory.  The  peculiar  isolated  position  of  this 
mountain,  affords  a  prospect  only  limited  by  the 
power  of  vision.  Nearly  every  peak  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks  spread  around  it;  the  long  range  of  the 
Green  Mountains  is  visible,  and  it  is  asserted  that 
beyond,  faint  glimpses  of  the  shadowy  tops  of  the 
White  Mountains  may  at  times  be  seen;  Lake 
Champlain  glows  centrally  in  the  splendid  pano- 
rama, and  a  rich  and  cultivated  district  stretches 
between,  and  softens  the  scene.  In  an  other  direc- 
tion the  glimmering  thread  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is 
traced  along  the  horizon,  and  at  the  north,  the 
spires  of  Montreal  may  be  discerned.  It  is  said, 
that  more  than  thirty  lakes  and  ponds,  some  glit- 
tering in  the  forests,  and  others  reposing  on  the 
mountains,  may  be  counted  from  the  summit  of 
White  Face. 

This  mountain  tract  has  been  but  partially  explor- 
ed. ALountains  have  not  been  ascended.  Much  of 
its  aspects  are  yet  unknown.  It  possibly  remains  to 
daring  and  energetic  adventurers  to  ascend  peaks 
loftier  than  any  yet  measured ;  to  penetrate  deeper 
and  more  solemn  gorges  than  the  Indian  Pass,  and 
to  discover  brighter  lakes,  and  more  dashing  cas- 
cades than  have  yet  been  revealed.  The  exceeding 
purity  and  transparency  of  these  mountain  waters 
excite  the  surprise  and  admiration  of  every  observer. 
The  gentleman  to  whose  intelligent  observation  we 
have  been  so  much  indebted,  illustrates  this  peculi- 
arity by  relating  his  own  impression.  In  looking 
at  the  bed  of  a  stream  or  lake,  he  could  with  difficul- 
ty realize  the  presence  of  water.  It  seemed  as  if  no 
fluid  denser  than  air,  interrupted  his  vision.  The 
capricious  modes  of  Nature  in  these  wilds  are  exhib- 


128 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


ited  by  another  fact:  one  pool,  will  present  a  clear 
blue  tint,  in  its  water,  while  another  closely  contig- 
uous, discloses  a  decided  green  coloring. 


»•>  ♦  ■» 


■^■■*    ^94 


Avenues  to  the  Wilderness. 


■It., 


The  Adirondack  region  may  be  approached  in 
various  directions,  and  by  routes  which  have  now 
generally  been  rendered  easy  and  accessible.  We 
propose  to  glance  at  each  of  them,  but  shall  present 
the  most  specific  directions,  in  reference  to  those 
connected  intimately  with  the  Chaniplaiii  Valley. 
If  the  reader  will  recall  our  description  of  the  net 
work  of  rivers  and  lakes,  which  are  so  strangely 
interlaced  in  the  water  systems  of  the  Wilderness, 
he  will  perceive  that  every  locality  is  readily  ap- 
proached by  water,  and  the  surmountings  of  the 
slight  carries  or  portages.  Each  hotel  or  stopping 
place  is  eq,sily  accessible  from  the  others  by  this 
channel.  Visits  may  be  thus  interchanged  or  resi- 
dences shifted  with  the  greatest  facility. 

Potsdam  route  by  stages,  wagons  and  navigation 
to  liock's  place,  at  the  foot  of  Raquette  Pond,  is 
represented  to  be  not  particularly  desirable  or  at- 
tractive. 

The  Malone  and  Chateau.o-ay  routes  we  have 
already  mentioned.  Malone  is  lifty  miles  from 
Hough's,  and  fifty-five  from  Martin's. 

Plattsburgh  afl^brds  one  of  the  prominent,  most 
direct  and  eligible  avenues  into  the  Wilderness.  If 
desired,  carriages  can  at  all  times  be  obtained  to 
convey  tourists  across  the  country  to  the  lakes,  over 


I 


i^B^' 


i 


J 


; 


i  t 


n    t: 


t 


St.  Begis  House,  (PatQ  Smith's,)  St.  Regis  Lake. 


THE      ADIROXDACKS. 


129 


ake. 


good  roads.  The  usual  and  most  agreeable  route,  is 
by  the  Whitehall  and  Plattsbur^^h  Railroad,  to  the 
Point  of  Rocks,  tweniy  miles.  At  tliis  station,  lines 
of  four-horse  coaches  regularly  meet  the  trains, 
and  convey  passengers  to  8t.  Regis  or  Saranac  Lakes. 
The  route  is  by  plank  road,  running  through  Au 
Sable  Forks  and  Black  Brook,  where  one  of  the 
heaviest  branches  of  J.  &  J.  Rogers*  Iron  Company 
is  established,  to  Franklin  Falls,  (twenty  miles). 
Soon  after  leaving  Au  Sable  Forks,  the  tourist  will 
observe  on  the  right,  a  hill  dotted  by  cabins,  and 
honey-combed  by  excavations.  This  is  the  famous 
Palmer  ore  bed,  a  source  of  immense  Avealth,  and 
should  be  visited  by  the  curious.  A  good  hotel  will 
be  found  at  Franklin  Falls.  At  Bloomingdale, 
eight  miles  beyond,  the  road  to  different  points  on 
the  lake,  separate.  (Titus'  Hotel).  To  Paul  Smith's 
is  eleven  miles,  to  Hough's,  thirteen  miles,  and  to 
Martin's,  eight  miles. 

Before  noticing  the  various  stopping  places  to 
which  this  route  leads,  we  will  briefly  trace  another 
mode  of  access  to  the  Wilderness  from  Plattsbnrgh. 
Before  the  construction  of  the  railroad  it  was  Ini'gely 
used,  but  is  now  nearly  abandoned.  It  follows  up 
the  Saranac  vallev  alons:  the  i)lank  road,  bv  a  do- 
lightful  drive,  nineteen  miles  to  Saranac  Foi-ks,  and 
then  diverges,  pursuing  the  two  branches  over  bad 
roads.  By  the  north  branch  it  i)asses  Peterborough, 
a  small  hamlet,  and  thence  ten  miles,  to  Hunters 
Home,  a  pleasant  resort  for  sportsmen,  kei:t  by  L. 
Smith,  aiul  situated  upon  this  stream.  Thence  to 
Wardner's  on  Rainbow  Lake,  nine  miles,  and 
thence  to  Pnul  Smith's,  seven  miles.  From  Hun- 
ters' Home  to  Merrillsville,  one  mile ;  Vermont- 
ville,  five  miles;  Bloomingdale,  three  miles, — 
nine  miles. 


130 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


t 


By  the  south  branch,  from  the  Forks  to  Silver 
Lake,  four  miles ;  Union  Fulls,  foui  miles ;  Frank- 
lin Falls,  eight  miles.  The  distance  from  Franklin 
Falls  to  Paul  Smith's  establishment  (the  St.  Regis 
House),  is  nineteen  miles,  over  a  comfortable 
road.  This  hotel  which  lias  secured  a  high  reputa- 
tion is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lower  St.  Regis 
lake,  on  the  head  waters  of  the  St  Regis  river,  and 
in  the  vicinity  of  excellent  hunting  and  fishing 
grounds.  The  place  is  in  the  region  of  a  multitude 
of  lakes,  streams  and  ponds,  and  in  the  vicinity  of 
fine  scenery.  The  house,  which  is  calculated  for 
the  accommodation  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests,, 
is  pleasantly  located  in  the  midst  of  a  pine  grove, 
and  surrounded  by  a  dense  forest.    (See  Appendix.) 

Two  portages  separate  the  St.  Regis  from  the 
Saranac  lakes :  one,  of  one  and  a  quarter  mile,  and 
the  other  an  eighth  of  a  mile,  at  each  horses  are 
always  kept  for  the  convenience  of  parties. 

The  road  from  Franklin  Falls  to  the  Saranac 
lakes  runs  parallel,  and  generally  on  the  margin  of 
the  Saranac  river,  a  distance  of  sixteen  miles,  and 
is  a  peculiarly  pleasant  route.  Baker's,  situated  on 
the  river  two  miles  below  the  lakes,  is  a  good  house^ 
pleasantly  situated,  and  is  the  first  of  the  resorts 
the  tourist  will  reach.  Milote  Baker  is  the  pioneer 
in  this  enterprize,  and  established  his  house  at  an 
early  day,  and  in  advance  of  any  other,  for  the  re- 
ception of  visitors  to  the  lakes,  but  in  changes  of 
circumstance,  she  has  been  placed  rather  outside  the 
of  the  woods,  and  yet  is  accessible  to  them.  Here 
is  a  telegraph  office.  All  the  stages  connected  with 
Saranac  Lake  stop  at  this  house,  Avhere  teams  are 
always  furnished  in  any  direction.  Blood's  Hotel 
stands  on   the  Saranac  river,  one   mile  from   the 


ii^: 


:l' 


Martinis  Hotel,  Saranao  Lake. 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


131 


lake.    It  has  beeii  much  enlarged,  and  is  conve- 
niently situated  on  the  highway. 

Martin's  Hotel,  a  well  known  anu  favorite  resort 
of  sportsmen  and  tourists,  is  agreeably  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  lower  Saranac.  It  is  favorably 
located  for  hunting  and  fishing;  is  easy  of  access  and 
in  a  central  position,  for  departure  to  all  the  inte- 
rior lakes  and  rivers,  and  to  the  hunting  and  fish- 
ing grounds.  The  house  has  been  greatly  increased 
in  its  capacity,  and  can  accommodate  one  hundred 
and  fifty  persons.  The  tables  of  most  of  these 
houses  are  not  only  supplied  with  the  products  of 
the  Wilderness,  but  are  furnished  with  many  luxu- 
ries of  the  city  markets.  It  is  claimed  that  this 
hotel  is  a  desirable  location  for  tlie  residence  of  fam- 
ilies in  the  summer  months.  Carriages  and  horses 
are  provided  for  the  accommodation  of  patrons.  A 
telegraph  is  connected  with  this  house.  Baker  and 
Smith's  Hotels,  and  is  available  by  the  other  houses. 
(See  Appendix). 

Bartlett's  Hotel  is  situated  twelve  miles  above 
Martin's,  and  stands  upon  the  portage  between 
Bound  Lake  and  the  upper  Saranac.  Transporta- 
tion from  Martin's  is  by  boats.  This  hotel  has 
been  for  some  years  familiar  to  tourists,  and  well 
esteemed.  Telegraph  despatches  are  forwarded  to 
the  office  at  Martin's.     (See  Appendix). 

At  the  foot  of  Big  Tupper  Lake,  M.  M.  Moody 
has  a  boarding  house  for  the  reception  of  about  fifty 
guests,  in  the  midst  of  good  fishing  and  hunting. 
(P.  0.  Saranac  Lake).  (Sec  Appendix).  Mr.  Graves' 
Lodge  stands  near  the  head  of  the  same  lake.  This 
cottage  is  well  and  favorably  known.     (See  Ap.) 

Hough's  Hotel,  now  in  process  of  extension,  is 
situated  at  the  head  of  the  Upper  Saranac,  and 
may  be  reached  by  a  road  from  Bloomingdale,  or 
by  water  from  Smith's,  and  a  carry  of  two  miles, 


132 


THE      ADIROXDACKS. 


r 


! 


i:     » 


il 


between  Clear  Pond  and  8t.  Regis  Lake,  and  another 
Ironi  the  ontlet  of  Clear  Pond  to  Saranac  Lake. 
The  honse  is  adapted  to  the  accommodation  of 
seventy -five  or  one  hundred  guests..  It  is  perhaps 
the  linest  location  in  reference  to  mountain  scenerv 
on  tlie  lakes,  and  is  surrounded  by  fine  sporting 
grounds.  Hough  supplies  guides,  boats  and  stores. 
Baker,  Martin,  Smith  and  Bartlett  (and  proba- 
bly all  the  other  hotels,  are  prepared  to  perform  the 
same  service)  advertise  to  supply  parties  going  into 
the  Wilderness  with  boats,  guides,  tents,  equipages 
and  all  the  essentials  of  camp  life,  with  the  necessa- 
ry stores  and  provisions.  Every  individual,  whether 
male  or  female,  should  carry  with  them  a  costume 
adapted  to  the  exposure  and  incidents  which  they 
may  encounter.  The  clothing  should  be  warm  and 
stout.  A  rubber  blanket  renders  the  tourist  quite 
independent  of  the  caprices  of  the  weather.  The 
conveniences  supplied  by  the  hotels  are  invaluable 
when  one  clings  to  the  watercourses,  and  indispen- 
sable if  he  does  not  rely  on  his  own  resources.  But 
the  earnest  explorer  and  the  ardent  sportsman  will 
prefer,  with  a  guide  bearing  the  absolute  necessaries, 
to  plunge  directly  into  the  forest.  If  a  permanent 
abode  is  desired,  select  a  location,  and  erect  a  cabin; 
but  if  a  rambling  life  is  to  be  adopted,  and  the  can- 
opy of  trees  is  inadequte,  a  bower  can  be  extempo- 
rized in  a  few  minutes.  In  storms,  an  incision 
above  and  below  of  the  requisite  width,  around  a  bal- 
sam, and  a  longitudinal  slit,  will  furnish  in  a  bark 
shingle  the  necessary  material  for  constructing  a 
hut  beneath  the  shelter  of  a  rock,  that  will  be  im- 
pervious to  the  wind  and  rain.  With  a  roaring  fire 
in  front,  reposing  upon  a  couch  of  hemlocks,  no 
matter  how  drenched  with  moisture,  he  may  bid 
defiance  to  the  elements,  and  his  only  discomfort 


• 


Bartlett's  Hotel,  Saranao  Lake. 


THE      ADIR0XI)A(K6. 


133 


will  be  felt  in  the  extreme  warmth  of  his  retreat. 
No  one  ever  contracted  a  cold  in  sleeping  upon  this 
couch.  The  pure  air  of  the  woods,  laded  with  the 
aroma  of  the  balsam,  hemlock  and  pine,  will 
impart  elasticity  and  vigor  to  his  system. 

Another  route  to  the  Saranac  lakes,  which  is 
rapidly  growing  in  public  favor,  requires  a  brief 
notice.  It  diverges  from  the  plank  road  at  Au 
Sable  Forks,  and  passing  through  the  Wilmington 
Notch,  which  we  have  described  as  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  natural  plienomenon  of  the  district,  it 
intersects  the  Elizabethtown  road  at  Scott's.  It  is 
claimed  to  be  the  shortest  route,  and  it  is  second  to 
none  in  its  romantic  and  striking  features.  The 
AVhite  Face  Mountain  House,  twelve  miles  from 
the  Point  of  Rocks,  and  tvrenty-two  miles  from 
the  lakes,  stands  on  this  road,  in  Wilmington,  amid 
the  wild  and  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Adirondacks, 
near  the  base  of  the  White  Face  mountain,  and  on 
the  banks  of  the  Au  Sable  river.  Guides,  carriages 
and  saddle  horses  for  ascending  the  mountain,  and 
boats  on  the  river,  are  at  all  times  provided.  From 
Point  of  Rocks  to  Wilmington,  twelve  miles ;  Notch, 
five  miles;  Lake  Placid,  ten  miles;  North  Elba, 
twelve  miles ;  Baker's  or  Blood's,  ten  miles ;  and  to 
Martin's  twenty-two  miles.    (See  appendix.) 

By  the  west  branch  of  the  Au  Sable,  from  Point 
of  Rocks  to  Lower  Jay,  nine  miles;  Upper  Jay, 
three  miles ;  Keene,  five  miles ;  North  Elba,  twelve 
miles;  Martin's,  eleven  miles.  A  new  and  con- 
venient hotel  is  building  by  Mr.  Brewster,  at  Lake 
Placid,  where  is  also  situated  Nash's  boarding  house. 

The  next  route  south,  on  the  lake,  is  from  Port 
Kent,  via  the  Au  Sable  Chasm  and  Keeseville. 
Post  coaches  meet  the  boats  at  Port  Kent,  and  any 
supply  of  carriages  can  at  all  times  be  secured  at 


V. 


134 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


the  landing,  by  addressing  letters  or  telegrams  to 
Keeseville.  ( See  appendix ).  The  distance  from 
this  place  to  the  Point  of  Rocks,  where  it  connects 
with  the  roads  just  described,  is  ten  miles;  to  Sar- 
anac  lakes,  by  Wilmington  Notch,  forty-four  miles ; 
by  Franklin  Falls,  forty-eight  miles;  to  Paul 
Smith's,  fifty-one  miles;  to  Peru,  six  miles,  and 
to  Plattsburgh,  fifteen  miles,  via  Peru,  and  thirteen 
direct.  To  Elizabethtown  through  the  gorge  of  Poke 
0  Moonshine,  twenty-one  miles.  First-class  car- 
riages may  at  all  times  be  obtained  to  any  of  these 
points. 

Another  avenue  into  the  Adirondacks  starts 
from  Westport,  thence  eight  miles  to  Elizabeth- 
town,  the  county-seat  of  Essex  county.  This  de- 
lightful place  is  known  locally,  and  with  great  pro- 
priety, as  Pleasant  Valley.  It  is  yearly  sought  by 
numerous  visitors,  as  an  agreeable  refuge  from  the 
dust  and  noise  of  the  cities,  on  account  ot  the 
beauty  of  its  situation,  on  the  banks  of  the  Bouquet, 
and  enclosed  on  every  side  by  mountains;  by  the 
salubrity  of  the  air,  and  its  social  refinement. 
Here,  in  its  tasteful  cemetery,  is  the  grave  of 
Orlando  Kellogg.  Among  the  memorials  of  the 
dead,  which  the  stranger  will  visit  with  interest  in 
this  tranquil  spot,  stands  a  monument  erected  over 
the  grave  of  a  lovely  christian  lady.  Its  base  is  a 
massive  rock  of  pure,  white  marble,  roughly 
chiseled,  and  surmpunted  by  a  graceful  cross  of 
the  same  material,  richly  and  elaborately  carved. 
The  whole  structure  is  replete  with  beauty  and 
pathos.    On  the  base  is  inscribed : 

"  Out  of  darkness  into  His  marvellous  light." 

The  idea  revealed  by  the  monument  and  inscrip- 
tion is  beautiful  and  impressive, — the  Cross,  rest- 
ing on  **  The  Rock  of  Ages." 


Summit  Whitefe^e  Mt.,  WUmington,  N.  Y. 


> 


a 


£., 


II 


' 


THE     ADIROi^DACKS. 


135 


The  distance  from  Pleasant  Valley,  by  the  way 
of  Norton's,  at  Keene  Flats,  (eleven  miles),  to 
Scott's,  at  North  Elba,  is  twenty-two  miles ;  and 
from  thence  to  Saranac  lakes,  fourteen  miles.  Every 
interesting  locality  in  the  Adirondacks  may  be 
visited  from  this  place.  Conveyances  will  always 
be  supplied.  Some  portions  of  the  road  to  the 
lakes  are  rough  and  hilly,  but  no  route  is  more 
interesting,  or  presents  a  more  impressive  entrance 
into  "  The  land  of  the  mountain  and  flood." 

The  traveler  will  find  here,  two  excellent  hotels, 
the  Valley,  and  the  Mansion  House.  We  may  class 
this  place  among  the  most  pleasant  summer  resorts 
for  families. 

A  tradition  has  prevailed,  since  the  early  settle- 
ment of  the  country,  that  the  partizan  Rogers  dur- 
ing the  colonial  war,  penetrated  to  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  ( North  Elba ),  and  there  in  the  absence 
of  the  warriors,  destroyed  an  Indian  village ;  that 
he  was  pursued  and  overtaken,  just  below  Pleasant 
Valley,  where  a  battle  occurred.  The  tale  is  rend- 
ered more  probable  from  the  fact  that  relics  of  mar- 
tial weapons,  both  savage  and  European,  have  been 
found  upon  the  scene  of  the  traditional  conflict. 

Crown  Point  is  the  lake  termination  of  the  old 
Carthage  road,  constructed  by  the  State  many  years 
ago,  through  the  Wilderness  to  Carthage,  in  Jeff'er- 
son  county.  This  road,  passing  over  ridges  of  the 
Adirondacks,  is  mountainous  and  rugged,  but  com- 
fortable. A  parallel  road  runs  to  Schroon  from 
Ticonderoga.  The  distance  by  either  is  about 
twenty  miles.  Schroon  Valley  is  an  exquisitely 
beautiful  spot,  and  is  becoming  a  very  attractive 
resort  to  summer  residents.  AVe  have  already  de- 
scribed its  romantic  waters.  Schroon  is  about 
twenty-seven  miles  from  Warrenburgh,  and  thirty- 


136 


THE      APTRONDACKS. 


' 


^ 


i 


two  miles  from  Elizabethtown,  and  is  pleasantly 
readied  in  both  directions  by  stages. 

At  Crown  Point  Landing,  where  the  former  of 
these  roads  commence,  is  situated  Gunnison's  hotel, 
a  new  and  pleasant  summer  boarding-house.  (  See 
appendix).  It  is  distant  by  the  M.  &  P.  railroad, 
six  miles  from  the  ruins  of  Crown  Point,  and  nine 
miles  from  Ticonderoga,  and  the  mythical  "  Put's 
Oak,"  one  and  a  quarter  miles.  Private  carriages 
may  be  obtained  here  for  Schroon  or  any  other 
point  in  the  vicinity.  Hammond  Corners,  on  the 
Schroon  road,  one  mile;  (Bennett's  hotel,  see  ap- 
pendix); Crown  Point  Center,  three  miles.  (Ingle's 
hotel,)  to  which  stages  run  from  the  Steamboats, 
and  where  private  conveyances  can  be  procured  to 
Schroon,  and  elsewhere ;  Bailey's  hotel,  five  miles ; 
Thompson's,  seven  miles.  From  Gunnison's  to 
head  of  Paradox  lake,  fifteen  miles ;  to  Hoot's,  nine- 
teen miles ;  to  Ondawa  hotel,  twenty-two  miles. 
The  Ondawa  is  a  new  and  spacious  house,  near  the 
head  of  Schroon  lalvc,  and  is  delightfally  situated. 
Game  and  fish  abound  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
establishment  is  largely  and  justly  patronized.  (See 
appendix).  It  is  provided  with  all  tlie  appointments 
designed  to  promote  the  comfort  and  amusement 
of  its  patrons.  A  band  of  music  is  in  attendance. 
A  good  livery  stable  is  connected  with  the  hotel. 
This  is  a  pleasant  residence  for  ladies  and  children, 
while  other  members  of  the  family  are  pursuing 
their  sporting  in  the  Wilderness. 

Tlie  pretty  little  steamer  Libbie  makes  two  daily 
tri[)s  each  way,  on  the  beautiful  Schroon  lake,  a 
miniature  of  Lake  George.  V^arions  theories  exist 
in  reference^^to  the  origin  of  this  uni(pie  name.  The 
most  intelligent  oi>inion  which  now  prevails,  refers 
it  to  the  French,  who  during  their  occupation  of 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


137 


of  Ticonderoga,  visited  the  lake,  and  called  it 
"  Scaron,"  as  a  memorial  of  Madam  Scaron,  the 
celebrated  Maitainon,and  secret  wife  of  Louis  XIV. 
The  distance  from  the  Ondawa,  to  lake  Pharaoh, 
by  boat  and  pack,  is  tw?  miles ;  to  Root's  seven 
miles;  to  Pottersville  hotel,  a  good  and  quiet  sum- 
mer resort,  nine  miles;  to  lake  George,  twenty-four 
miles,  and  to  the  Gleu  a  pleasant  drive. 

Root's  hotel,  on  Schroon  river,  is  a  long  estab- 
lished and  well  known  hostelry.  The  wearied  and 
hungry  wanderer  will  always  greet  the  huge  glitter- 
ing antlers  inscribed:  '"Russell  Root's  Inn,"  Avitli 
satisfaction.  Several  other  taverns  and  boarding 
houses  in  the  valley  are  open  for  the  reception  of 
visitors. 

Among  the  various  routes  to  Mt.  Mtircy  is  one 
connected  with  this  point,  whicli  is  described  as 
direct  and  practical.  It  passes  by  Mud  pond,  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  embosomed  among  the 
deepest  recesses  of  the  Wilderness.  At  this  secpies- 
tered  place,  Mr.  Moore  has  opened  a  house  for  the 
accommodation  of  guests.  To  facilitate  access  to  the 
mountains,  the  enterprising  hotel  proprietors  of 
Schroon  have  opened  a  trail  from  Mud  pond 
through  the  forest.  Several  boats  are  also  prepared 
on  the  pond  for  the  convenience  of  visitors. 

Schroon  is  remarkable  for  several  very  curious 
natural  exhibitions,  which  will  be  inspected 
with  interest  by  the  tourist.  There  are  two  remark- 
able subterranean  passjiges  near  Paradox  Lake.  The 
first  of  these  forms  the  channel  of  a  small  rivulet, 
by  a  natural  perforation  through  the  solid  rock, 
several  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  ten  or  twelve  feet 
below  the  surface,  over  which  the  highway  passes, 
as  if  on  an  artificial  bridge.  In  the  other,  which  is 
mentioned  in  early  works,    the  explorer  enters  a 


11 


ii 


If 


138 


THE      ADIROJ^DACKS. 


lofty  arch,  several  feet  below  the  surface,  carved  out 
by  the  hand  of  nature  from  the  rock  formation.  It 
presents,  at  some  points,  the  appearance  of  almost 
an  exact  Gothic  structure,  and  from  other  views,  of 
broken  aisles  and  abrupt  canopies.  This  dark  and 
gloomy  cavern  extends  a  number  of  rods,  and  is 
from  four  to  ten  feet  in  width,  and  from  ten  to  fif- 
teen feet  in  height.  It  is  the  sluice  way  of  a  large 
stream,  which  just  above  the  entrance  propels  a 
mill  and  dashes  and  foams  along  the  rocky  descent. 
Trout  are  often  found  within  this  passage,  in  pools, 
which  are  formed  by  obstructions  to  the  course  of 
the  stream. 

Inflammable  gas  is  emitted  from  tlie  bottom  of 
Schroon  Lake,  where  the  water  is  eighteen  or  twen- 
ty feet  in  depth.  This  phenomenon  is  noticed  at  all 
seasons.  Wlien  tlie  lake  is  frozen  over,  the  gas  col- 
lects in  various  distinct  bodies,  bcneatli  the  ice, 
where  it  can  be  readily  (liscerned.  If  a  small  aper- 
ture is  cut  in  the  ice  above  one  of  these  collections, 
the  gas  rushes  forth  with  great  violence,  and  when  a 
match  is  applied,  ignites  and  flames  up  in  a  bril- 
liant fiery  column  often  eight  feet  high,  and  burns 
usually  from  five  to  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  its  na- 
tural receptacle  is  exhausted.  In  the  summer  the 
gas  rises  to  the  surface,  at  intervals  producing  a 
strong  ebullition  of  the  water,  which  continues 
about  five  minutes.  Burning  shavings  have  been 
thrust  in  the  gas  before  it  is  dissipated,  when 
it  instantly  takes  fire  and  bursts  into  a  flame  several 
feet  high,  which  spreads  over  the  surface  of  the 
lake  frequently  in  a  circle  of  more  than  thirty  feet. 
An  enquiring  mind  will  be  gratified  by  a  visit  to  the 
rich  ore  beds  and  extensive  iron  works  of  Mr.  John 
Roth,  and  to  the  vast  tanneries  which  abound  in 
this  district.  The  visitor  will  be  surprised  to  discover 


THE      ADIROJ^DACKS. 


139 


in  this  secluded  placr*  hides  taken  from  the  pampas 
of  Soiitli  America,  which  will  soon  be  returned  to 
market  in  varieties  of  the  choicest  leather. 

The  road  into  the  Wilderness  turns  at  right  an- 
gles from  the  highway  at  Root's  Tavern,in  Schroon, 
and  follows  up  a  turbulent  branch  of  the  8chroon 
river,  through  a  wild  and  rugged  region,  to  Fen- 
ton's  (five  miles) ;  French's,  Boreas  river,  eleven 
miles,  and  eighteen  miles  to  John  Cheney's.  Stages 
run  regularly  from  Root's  to  Long  Lake.  Every 
tourist  should  seek  an  interview  with  Cheney, 
who  will  impart  much  interesting  information,  on 
all  the  habits  and  incidents  of  wood  craft.  He  is  a 
•fiivorable  specimen  of  the  guides  and  hunters  of  a 
former  period.  Brave,  intelligent  and  faithful,  they 
were  always  reliable.  Many  a  prototype  of '"'Leather 
Stockings"  wandered  in  this  Wilderness.  They  ])os- 
sessed  dwellings  and  farms,  but  these  were  subordi- 
nate interests.  Tiieii*  hearts  and  homes  Avere  among 
the  mountains  and  lakes ;  tliey  traversed  the  mazes 
of  the  forests  with  equal  facility  by  day  or  night ;  by 
the  light  of  the  stars,  or  enveloped  in  mists.  They 
penetrated  alone  into  the  deepest  recesses  of  tlie  for- 
ests and  in  pursuit  of  this  fascinating  life  spent  days, 
and  even  weeks  in  utter  solitude  and  seclusion. 
With  the  instincts  of  the  Indian,  they  were  never 
bewildered.  Some  mossy  tree,  a  twig  bent  or  broken 
long  before,  afforded  a  certain  clue  to  their  posi- 
tion. They  traced  the  game  with  unerring  preci- 
cision,  and  with  rilles  that  never  failed.  Their  tales 
of  conflicts  with  savage  beasts  and  hair  breadth 
escapes  from  forest  dangers,  often  describe  the 
most  thrilling  and  exciting  scenes.  Occupying  the 
verge  of  civilization,  the  lingering  race  of  these  hun- 
ters will  soon  be  extinguished  by  its  advance,  and 
like  the  red  man,  in   whose  character  and  habits 


:'  1 


tlii! 


n 

f.v 


It  • 


!■  i| 


140 


THE      ADIROXDACKS. 


they  so  strongly  participate,  their  truc^i  will  soon  be 
lost  or  they  will  be  only  recalled  in  local  traditions 
or  shadowy  reminiscences.  In  by-gone  years,  John 
Cheney  was  "  the  famous  hunter "  among  this 
chiss  of  men.  He  was  alone  with  Mr.  Henderson  in 
the  Wilderness  when  he  received  his  fatal  wound. 
Many  of  the  incidents  of  his  life  have  found  their  way 
into  print,  but  the  history  of  his  adventures,  his 
exciting  Moose  hunts,  his  warfare  upon  the  Wolf, 
his  terrible  conflicts  with  bears  in  their  dens,  and 
panthers  in  their  lairs,  would  occupy  a  volume. 

A  mile  beyo;id  Cheney's  is  Tahawas  village,  or 
the  Lower  )Vorks,  as  they  were  designated  by  the 
Adirondack  Company,  near  the  foot  of  Like  Sand- 
ford,  (Tahawas  Hotel.)  We  will  briefly  turn  from 
our  route  to  make  an  excursion,  (ten  miles,)  to  the 
abandoned  works  of  the  Company,  located  on  the 
stream  between  Lake  Henderson  and  Lake  San  ford. 
It  may  be  made  by  water  or  over  a  passable  road, 
which  affords  as  perfect  views  of  mountain  scenery 
as  the  mind  can  conceive.  The  road  passes  along  a 
narrow  valley  between  the  lake  and  the  mountain. 
Mt  Marcy  and  the  cluster  of  peaks  that  surround  it 
impending  on  the  right,  the  W^all  Face  Mountain 
in  the  distance,  rearing  its  Titanic  masonry  above 
the  Indian  Pass,  and  on  every  side,  '-Alps  on  Alps 
arise."  The  visitor  will  be  amized  to  discover  in 
this  silent  and  deserted  village,  and  at  both  extremi- 
ties of  the  lake  the  appliances  of  commerce  and  the 
vestiges  of  a  great  manufacturing  institution. 
There  are  massive  dams,  wharves,  store-houses  and 
ironworks;  but  a  single  watchman  alone  patrols 
the  former  si'at  of  vast  business  activity.  The  edi- 
fices are  all  unoccupied.  T'his  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  aflluent  districts  of  mineral  wealth  in  the 
world.     Tlie  whole  structure  of  the  earth  is  uppar- 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


Ul 


ently  formed  of  iron  ore  ;  the  celltars  were  excavat- 
ed in  the  mineral,  the  river  is  spanned  by  a  natural 
iron  dam.  .  The  remoteness  of  the  position,  and 
other  causes,  compelled,  many  years  ago,  a  suspen- 
sion of  the  works,  but  the  sanguine  hope  is  cher- 
ished, that  the  Adirondack  I^iilroad,  which  is  grad- 
ually approaching  tlie  Wilderness,  will  rekindle 
these  fires,  and  utilize  to  the  world  tlie  incomputa- 
ble wealth  hidden  in  tliese  deep  recesses.  The 
spectacle  exhibited  liere  will  strongly  interest  the 
explorer  and  is  calculated  to  create  the  most  solemn 
and  impressive  emotions.  Our  limits  Avill  not  per- 
mit a  recital  of  the  extraordinary  history  of  the  place; 
the  revelation  by  the  Indian  brave  to  Mr.  Henderson, 
of  the  existence  of  the  vast  deposits  of  ore  and  of 
the  iron  dam;  the  secret  expedition  to  explore  it; 
the  bivouac  in  the  Indian  Pass,  to  escape  observa- 
tion ;  the  stealthy  excavation ;  the  cautious  dis- 
guising of  the  work ;  the  rapid  retreat ;  tlie  hurry- 
ing to  Albany  to  secure  the  title,  and  the  terrible 
death  of  Mr.  Henderson  amid  the  wilds.  Histories 
of  Essex  county  minutely  narrate  the  tale. 

A  comfortable  carriage  road  diverges  at  Potters- 
ville  from  the  great  northern  highway  running  to 
Schroon,  and  passing  through  Olmsteadville  and 
Minerva,  intersects  with  the  route  we  have  been 
following,  a  mile  west  of  Tahavvas.  The  distance  is 
about  twenty-lour  miles.  At  Minerva,  is  Champ- 
ney's  house,  and  eiglit  miles  north  Hewitt's  place. 
Pursuing  the  road  towards  Long  Lake,  we  pass  a 
little  hamlet  on  Harris  lake,  and  stop  at  the  famil- 
iar resort  of  Daniel  Bissell,  and  soon  alter  skirt 
along  the  margin  of  Eicli  Pond,  both  fountain 
heads  of  tlie  Hudson.  Long  Lake  is  in  Hamilton 
County,  forty-one  miles  from  Koot's,  where  we  en- 
tered the  Wilderness.     A  post  office  is  established 


143 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


•i<-  '. 


at  this  place,  known  as  the  Long  Lake  P.  0.  Stages 
run  weekly  to  Warrensburgh  leaving  on  Mondays, 
and  connecting  with  the  cars  on  Tuesday.  Ex- 
tra conveyances  are  always  piovided.  There  is  a 
good  hotel  by  C.  H.  Kellogg,  which  will  accommo- 
date about  thirty  visitors,  and  a  boarding  house  by 
Mitchell  Sabatis,  the  well  known  hunter  and  intel- 
ligent guide,  who  will  "  render  comfortable  about 
sixteen  guests."  Tourists  are  supplied  with  all  the 
necessary  appliances  for  the  woods  or  lakes.  The 
nearest  station  of  the  Adirondack  Kailroad  from 
Long  Lake,  is  between  forty  and  fifty  miles.  The 
distance  to  Martin's  on  Saranac  Lake  is  forty  miles, 
and  to  Paul  Smith's,  fifty  miles.  Three  miles  from 
Kellogg's,  near  the  head  of  Long  Lake,  is  the  house 
of  Mr.  Palmer.  On  Raquette  Lake,  near  the  foot,  is 
situated  Gary's  Hotel;  in  the  opposite  direction, 
below  Long  Lake,  and  at  Raquette  Falls,  is  John- 
son's place. 

From  Carthage  to  Long  Lake  is  between  forty 
and  fifty  miles,  by  the  Beach  Lake  road.  Another 
avenue  is  from  Booneville,  by  Lyonsdale,  seven 
miles,  Avery's,  five  and  a  half  miles;  to  Arnold's, 
fourteen  miles,  and  from  thence  to  Kellogg's,  on 
Long  Lake,  forty  miles.  The  requisite  pack  horses 
and  other  conveniences  are  provided  on  this  route, 
to  transport  persons  and  baggage  across  the  car- 
ries. 

Graves'  Lodge,  a  cottage-like  retreat,  is  situated 
near  the  head,  and  M.  M.  Moody's  establishment  at 
the  foot  of  Great  Tupper  lake.  (  See  appendix  ). 
These  are  pleasant  resorts,  where  every  convenience 
will  be  furnished  for  enjoying  the  superior  hunting 
and  fishing  which  abounds  in  the  region. 

Vast  changes,  it  is  manifest,  are  impending  in 
the  aspect  and  relations  of  this  region.    The  ad- 


THE      ADIRONDACKS. 


143 


Stages 
ndays, 
Ex- 
re  is  a 
>mmo- 
use  by 

intel- 

about 

all  the 

The 

a  from 

The 

miles, 
;s  from 
:  house 
foot,  is 
ectioii, 

John- 

n  forty 
Liiother 
i,  seyen 
mold's, 
rg's,  on 
:  horses 
s  route, 
the  car- 
situated 
nent  at 
tendix ). 
renience 
liunting 

ding  in 
The  ad- 


vent of  the  Adirondack  Railroad  that  is  slowly 
invading  the  AVilderness,  and  which  proposes  to 
pierce  its  deepest  recesses  diagonally,  .uust  work  a 
radical  revolution  in  its  condition.  The  utilitarian 
spirit  of  the  age  will  not  be  arrested  by  the  re- 
straints of  sentiment.  Sentiment  would  perpet- 
uate these  wilds,  as  vast  preserves  of  fish  and  game, 
for  the  benefit  of  coming  generations.  Taste  would 
forbid  these  scenes  of  beauty  and  splendor,  of 
solitude  and  silence,  to  be  desecrated.  A  wise 
forecast  might  demand  that  tliese  forests  should  be 
maintained  to  secure  a  perpetual  supply  to  the 
countless  streams  that  flow  from  their  bosom.  But 
the  insatiate  lust  of  wealth,  in  this  instance  doubt- 
less just,  will  exact  the  vast  affluence  that  slumbers 
in  the  ores  and  timber  of  the  Adirondacks,  and 
the  exhaustless  mineral  riches,  already  known  and 
those  yet  unrevealed,  of  which  the  former  is  the 
type  and  index.  Iron,  is  however,  far  from  being 
the  exclusive  mineral  contained  in  the  bosom  of  the 
Adirondacks.  Plumbago  and  kaolin,  have  been 
found  in  large  deposits,  and  practically  utilized* 
Traces  of  galena  are  noticed  in  every  section. 
Copper  ore  of  peculiar  richness,  has  been  discovered 
in  Crown  Point,  in  the  same  pit  from  which  the 
remarkable  native  Phosphate  of  Lime  is  extracted, 
and  little  doubt  exists  of  the  presence  of  silver  ore 
in  the  vicinity  of  Indian  Pass. 

The  tradition  seems  quite  authentic,  that  a  hun- 
ter, lost  in  the  forest,  and  wandering  two  days, 
noticed  a  brilliant  substance  in  the  seams  of  the 
rock ;  specimens  of  which  he  secured.  At  length 
recovering  his  courses,  he  regained  the  open 
country,  and  subsequently  caused  the  material  to 
be  analyzed,  which  \va3  pV6no'i;ii6ed'p^rc  silvei  ore. 
A  somewhat  apochryplial  part  of  the  tab,  says  that 


f  >  » 


>    I  > 


144 


THE      ADIROXDACKS. 


n 


silver  spoons  were  fiibricated  frcm  the  mineral. 
Ardent  search  has  been  made  by  t]i'>  discoverer,  and 
numerous  believers,  for  the  spot,  but  without  suc- 
cess. 

When  this  territory  shall  be  rendered  accessible, 
the  stately  forest  will  be  claimed  for  the  uses  of 
industry,  and  the  venerable  pines,  which  have  tow- 
ered among  them,  in  majestic  beauty,  will  fall 
beneath  the  axe  of  the  lumberman.  In  some  sec- 
tions, as  we  have  noticed,  the  process  is  already 
initiated. 

Happily,  in  reference  to  the  views  of  those  who 
would  spare  this  Wilderness,  large  portions  of  it 
are  impenetrable  to  this  pursuit,  and  still  larger 
portions  are  impracticable  to  agriculture.  These 
recuperative  energies  of  nature  will  always  rehabil- 
itate it  with  a  fresh  and  copious  vegetation.  The 
hope  may  be  confidently  cherished,  that  these  head 
springs,  of  such  incalculable  value  to  the  State,  will 
never  be  desecrated,  and  that  its  features  of  tran- 
quil beauty  will  never  wholly  be  obliterated  from 
the  Northern  Wilderness. 


I  J I  • 


t ».  > ' 


I  N  D  K  X  . 


sue- 


PAGE.  PAGE. 

Abcrcrombie,...!?,  14,  15.  123,  ISICasitleton,' 37 

AdirondackH,  33,  3!t  Chateaugay, 7(j 

Allen,  Ebenezer 28  Chateaugay  Woodf, (iO 

Allen,  Ethan '-i*!  Cranes, 10!» 

Arnold,  B 2»;,  32  Chimney  Point, 28 

Amherst, t 15,  3t,  4V  Crown  Point, 28,  2!) 

All  Sable  Chasm, 5»i,  «;4,  81  Corloar 31 

All  Sable  Delta, SS  Cumberland  Head 35,  Sti 

Au  Sable  Forks .  .8t»  Curiosities,  Natural . .  .3!),  40,  5B,  72 

Avenues  to  Wilderness 128  75,  81,  85,  01 

92,!t4,  nn.  122 

Ss;;jav;v;;;::.:::::::::::lIchoney,.Tohn ''!^S 

Sr;^'^-:::;:;;;::::::::::!gg;---^ i^-,..,.-^ 

Minerva l^l  moskVu 00,90,100,108 

Plattsburgh, l^^'ni^ ir.  n.:' ;. V 

Port  Kent  133  "*^^"  '^  ^^^  " ^^ 

porsd^!::;;;:::;:::::;::  ::JiDownie,capt 50,52 

Schroon 137,142 


Westport, 134 


wiSgon:;:;:;:.:;:::;-::::;i33^;^<-^'^l'j^»^^^^ 

Carthage, . 142  El'^^il'^thtown, . 

Adirondack  Works, 140 


Efsex, 31 


.134 


FALLS. 


Baker,  T.N lit 

Baldwin,    W.  G 10 


BATTLES. 


Trent, 5(1 

lAu  Sable  Klver, SO 

Rainbow 01 

'Franklin, 130 

,.  ^.-Flshina, 55,115,110 

Chauiplain 22  pi^,,  Transference  of 87 

Lake  George, 8 

Graves  of  Dead 52  FLEETS. 

Plattsburgh,  40,5: 

Naval -I'N  •''^»  Indian 10 

Sabbath  Day  Point, 10,  15  [^^leiuh ".' '.'. Vo' " 42 

Valcour,  .35  British  and  American,  .i:i,'::5,  4t)',  40 

Indian, .... .  13a  '^ja,.  LouoiiLrh's,   30,  40 

Bradstrcet,  Oen 14  ' 


Beaman,  Nathan ,^;"  Giililand.  Willian. 31 

Bear, lO  ^J^.^.^,^  iMountaiiis,, 33,  38 

Beaver, >•  ]"^  Guides  and  1! miters 110,  132 

Benedict,  F.  N 110  i.>..'  loa 

Bixby.Dr 107  ^^'^^^^-^ 

Brancion      .  ^^'J  Ilallock  Hill 50,  87 

Bloody  Pond.. ...  .8  Hi.,„icrsoii.  David 125.  141 

Brown,  Co  .Jolin 1 '.  ^*^  lltmdrick,  Sachem 7 

Brown,  John .     .  .<>  uowe.  Lord 12.  13 

Burgoyne     1;>,  27,  •  1  Howe  Cove 13, 

Bulwagga  Bay, .        20  ii,u,tcr's  Pass, 

Burlington 32,   -!1.  01 

Blooiningdalo, 1^'*, Indian  Pass 

Ice H, 

Caldwell, ](i  Inman,  A.  L 21 

Cannon,  Ool.  Le  Grand  B.  21.  32,  52  Inhuul  Navitration, 110 

Carillon,  Fort 13  Insects 110 

CarltoiPs  Prize, 41  Incidents, 23,  00,  141,  143 

Champlain,  Samuel  D 22,  2) 

Charoplain  Canal, 37  ISLANDS. 

"     Transportation  Co.  ..10,  20 

"     Discipline  on  St'rs  of,  ..  44  Diamond 15 

"     Lake,  Navigation  of.   .   .4401'  Lake  George, J7 

"     Survey  of 45!Four  Brothers, 32 

"      ■ 75iJuuiper,  32, 32 


15 
92 

08 
23 


m 


INDEX 


i 

I 


1 1 
1 1 

.  i  I 


PAGE.;  PAGE. 

Schuylor'e, 34,Moo?e, 100 

Gorden, 34 

Valcour 34  MOUNTAINS. 

Crab 35 

La  Mott 3H,  57:  Black, 17 

Providence, 41,  Bald, 30 

Grand  Ifle, 57,  SSCamers*  Hump, 3;^,  67 

iLion, 55 

Johnsion,  Sir  William 6,  fl  Manslield, 65 

Jay, 133!  Adirondack  Teaks, 123,  125 

iMarcy 124 

Keesevillo 62.  82,    SSSeward, 126 

Keeiio  Flats WOVVhite  Face, 126 

Logp,  Running 58  North  Elba % 

Northern  Plain, 34,  73 

LAKES  AND  PONDS.      104 

Ogdcnshurgh, 78 

George 5,  16,  17 

Champlain, 22  Panther 01.  100,  108 

Chazy 55  Page,  ( Juv y/K  43 

Bomerseen, 37  Platt^hurgh 40,  52 

Dunmore 3!),  40  Poke  ()  Moonshine 87 

Chateangav, 7»i  Port  Henry, 20 

An  Sable  Ponds OOPort  Kent 34 

Placid 05,  133Potter,  G.  S , 115 

Moose  River  System, 105  Proctor,  N.  B 43 

Raquette  System, 105  Provost,  Sir  George ^6,  51 

Saranac  System 100,  130,  13iiPutniim,  0 

St.  Regis  System, 100  Pufs  Rock, 20 

lupper,...: 106,  131,  142  Put's  Tree 

Long 105,  1421q        .  „q    ..    _„ 

Blue  Mountain, ^yji^uarius .i»,  41,  .2 

Schroon 132,  UUi:  BAILBOADS. 

Paradox, VJ* 

Edmonds'  Pond, 07,  00  Rensselaer  &  Saratoga, 10 

Henderson,  120  Vermont  &  Canada 68 

Sandford 12l! Vermont  Central, 65 

Avalanche, 121iMi8si8quoi  Brancli, 72 

Lakes  of  the  Wilderness, 112| Whitehall  &  Platt,8burgh,.28,  m,  39 

Mallett'8  Bay  4llMontreai  &,  Plattsbnrgh, 36,  76 

Malone, 771  Addison,  39 

Marine  Shells, 72'  Montreal  &  Lake  Champlain, 74 

Marin, OiOgdensbnrgh  &  Champlain, 75 

Molong, OlWestern  Vermont, 38 

MacDonough,....30,  35,  40,  49,  511  Adirondack, 141 

MacDonough  Farm, 56!Kock  Dunder,  Reggio 32 

McGlassin,  Maj 46 


MINEBAL  SFBINGS. 

Adirondack,  Westport, 30 

Adirondack,  Whitehall, 37 

Middletown, 38 

Iodine, 57 

Elgin, .40 

Sheldon, 71 

Missisquoi, 71 

Highgate, 72 

Massina, 77 

Keeeeville, 8' 

Middlebury 39 

Minerals  and  Gems, 29,  07.  122 

14^,  143 

Mohawk 8,  0 

Moore's  Junction, 75,  70 

MisBidquoi  Bay, 36,  73 

Montcalm 10,  11,  14,  15 


BIVEBS. 

i  Wood  Creek, 21 

Otter  Creek, ;30,  38,  40 

Boquet,   81 

Chazy 36 

Winooski, 41,  69 

Lamoille, 41,  69 

Saranac, 53,  55,  57,  100 

Au  Sable, 56,  88 

Graes, 79 

Raquette, 79,  105 

Salmon 79,  100 

St.  Regis 79,  107 

Os wagatchie,  107 

Hudson,  Branches  of 120 

Mohawk,  Branches  of 121 

Rogers'  Major, 9,  18  135 

Rogers'  Slide, 18 

Root,  E 83 

B 


INDEX. 


17 

30 

.'iZ,  67 

55 

65 

23,  125 
....124 
. . .  .126 
. . . .126 

% 
73 

78 

100,  108 
..VK  43 
..40,  52 

87 

29 

34 

115 

43 

..46,  51 

9 

20 

72 

19 

08 

65 

72 

!8,  36,  39 
...36,  76 

39 

n, 74 

, TO 

38 

141 

33 

i6,"38',"40 

31 

36 

...41,  69 
...41,  69 
I,  67,  109 
...56,  88 

79 

..79,  105 
..79,  109 
. .79,  107 

107 

120 

121 

9,  18  135 

18 

R3 

B 


PAGE.]  PAGK. 

RoBO,  H.  II .. 31  iTrembleau  Point,..     .  34 

Rutland ;i8iTrout .;.';   '  114 

RoDBe'e  Point, 37,  74  FiBhin'', "'n5 

Roger's  J.  &  J.  Works 89,  ia>jThomaB,  Almon ."'.!..*!!.'!  123 

Sabbath  Day  Point,.. 10,  13,  15.  ISiUnderwood,  Gov 43 

Halmon, 60  

Schuyler,  Philip 13,  lllVandruil 6 

St.  AlbanB, OOlVergennes, .30,  41 


Shelbnrne  Bay, 32 

Swanton,    72 

Sherman,  Captains .4 \  44 

Steamers,..  16,  20,  29,  32,  41,  42,  43 

76,  135 
Steamboat  Commanders,. 20,  40,  43 

44 

Steamboat  Trips,.  .29,  41,  S6,  56,  62 

Steamboat  Arrangemerts 64 

Steamboats,  Discipline  on 44 

Snow  Shoesi, 6, 16 

"         "  Battleon 18 

Sooth  Bay, 7,  71 

Smith,  J.  Gregory 70,  71 

Ship  Canal, 24 

Smugglers, 65,69 

Split  Rock .30 

Swan, 120 

Schroon, , 

Scenery,  Autumn 

Scenery,  Winter 24,  83 


Ticonderoga, 


Vessels,  Relics  of 19,  32,  34 

Water  Lilies 89, 114 

Waterbury, 65 

Whale,  Fossil 41 

Watson,  Elkanah 31,  45 

Williams,  Col.  Ephraim 7 

William  Henry,  Fort 6,  9, 11 

Whitehall, I9,  37 

Wires'  Insurance  Building, 62 

Wolves, 60, 108 

Westport ,30 

Willsboro  Bay, 32 

White,  L.  S 33 

Wind  Mill  Point 

Wilmington  Notch, 94 

Wool.  Gen 47 

Willraington,  Col 47 

Wildt mess.  Northern 100 

While  Fish 115 


13,  15,  24,  26,  27 


Young  Men,  Military  Co.  of 48 


ERRATA. 


Page  56, 16th  line  from  bottom,  read  Hallock  Hill,  for  Hallock. 

Page  57,  last  word,  read  extent  for  expanse. 

Page  58, 11th  line  from  top,  read  villas  for  villages. 

Pages  32  and  67,  read  Lion  for  Leon. 

Page  115,  read  Potter  for  Pottr. 

Page  144,  8th  line  from  bottom,  read  these  for  the. 


'K 


<M 


t  - 


[■t\ 


lii! 


i     :      '     I 


APPENDIX. 


—♦♦♦"• 


TO     SEE 


LAKE  CHAMPIIAN I  LAKE  GEOBGE 


Wt  Mmy-^i^M^ 


Gi<yj.isci^ 


O  XT  ^X^  Xi 


Leavt!  Afontroal  by  Clir.mplain  and  St.  Lawrence  railroad, 
4.00  P.  M.  ;  take  the  steamer  at  Houses  Point  and  reach 
Plattsburo'li  for  supper,  passing  by  day-liglit  tlie  site  of  the 
old  Fort  St.  Ann,  on  Isle  La  Motte,  built  by  the  French  in 
1775,  and  Cuml)erland  Head,  where  Burfjjoyne  collected  to- 
gether his  army  in  1777,  preparatory  to  his  attack  on  Ticon- 
deroga ;  or  by  the  Train  to  Lachine  and  Caughnawaga, 
thence  by  M.  &  P.  Railroad  direct  to  Plattsburgh.  Stopping 
at  Fou(piet's  Hotel  over  night,  passengers  can  take  the  stea- 
mer for  Whitehall  or  Lake  (Jeorge  at  8.00  A.  M.,  the  next 
morning  thus  having  an  oi)portunity  to  view  by  day-lig'ht 
all  the  places  of  interest  upon  the  shores  of  this  beautitul 
Lake,  arriving  at  VVliitehall  at  4  P.  M..  or  Saratoga  at  ft 
P.M. 

1-0 


APPENDIX 


For  Lake  George 

Passengers  will  leave  the  steamer  at  Ticonderoffa  at  3  P.  M,, 
thence  by  stage,  4  miles  around  the  rapids  ;  thence  by  stea- 
mer to  Caldwell  at  the  upper  end  of  the  lake. 


S#f^|j, 


PLATTSBURGH,  N.  Y. 

This  Hotel  is  Bituated  at  Plattsburgh,  upon  the  western 
shore  of  Lake  Charaplain  ,  on  the  banks  of  Cumberland  Bay, 
which  was  the  scene  of  the  naval  battle  between  the  Eng- 
lish and  American  fleets,  Sept.  lltli,  1814.  At  this  Hotel, 
conveniently  located  within  a  few  rods  of  the  steamboat 
landing  and  the  depots,  its  ])iazzas  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  Lake,  the  Ureon  Mountains  on  the  east,  and  the  Adi- 
rondacks  on  the  west,  and  standing  in  the  midst  of  a  great 
garden  of  flowers,  open  to  the  guests,  the  traveller  finds 
every  convenience  and  comfort.  Tiiis  house,  noted  for  its  ex- 
cellently served  tables,  and  courteous  management,  and 
which  heretofore  has  received  transient  guests  only,  is 
opened  this  season  for  permanent  boarders.  Also,  connect- 
ed as  it  is  by  daily  lines  with  Montreal,  Lake  (ieorg<',  Al- 
burgh  and  the  Iodine  Springs  on  Grand  Isle,  the  Au  Sable 
Chasm  (a  wonderful  natural  spectacle  just  coming  into  no- 
tice) and.  the  Adirondack  Wilderness  proper,  few  places  are 
80  admirably  adapted  to  furnish  health  and  recreation. 


ight 


From  Montreal  to  Plattsburgh. 

As  there  is  no  bt)at  leaving  Rouses  Point  Saturday  even- 
ing, tourists  desirous  ot  spending  Sunday  in  Plattsburgh,  en 
route  for  Lake  CJc'orgf  and  Saratoga,  will  require  to  leave 
Montreal  by  the  Plattsburgh  and  Montreal  railroad,  via 
LachJneand  Caughnawaga,  at  :]  P.  M.,  by  which  they  will 
arrive  at  Fouquet's  Hotel  at  0,4o  P,  M, 


! 


TI 


APPENDIX  , 


!3     1 


■  'i. 


Hi 


i 

i 


t     i  6 


n 

n 


I 


ill!, 


fi 


II 


ROUTES    TO    PLATTSBURQH 
And  the  Au  Sable  Chasm, 

From  the  White  Mountains. 

Take  the  stages  at  Crawford  and  Profile  Houses  (twice 
daily)  for  Littleton,  N.  H.;  thence  by  rail  to  Wells  river. 
Leave  Wells  River  at  10.15  A.  M.,  White  River  Junction  at 
1.30  P.  M.,  arriving  at  Burlington  at  5.50  P.  M.,  thence  by 
steamer  to  Plattsburgh  and  the  Au  Sable  Chasm. 

FROM  HOUHT~MANSFISLD. 

Take  stages  6.30  A.M.,  or  3.00  P.  M.,  to  Waterbury, 
thence  by  Vermont  Central  Railroad  to  Burlington,  thence 
by  steamer  to  Piattsburgh ;  or  continuing  by  cars  from 
Waterbury  to  St.  Albans,  remaining  over  night,  thence  by 
steamer  "  Andrew  Williams "  from  St.  Albans  Bay,  pass- 
ing over  the  most  beautiful  part  of  Lake  Champlain.  The 
Lake,  here  dotted  with  beautiful  verdure-clad  islands  in 
every  direction,  and  the  whole  scene  backed  with  the 
mountain  ranges  on  both  sides  of  the  lake,  more  nearly  re- 
sembles the  scenery  of  Archipelago  of  the  ^gean  Sea  than 
any  other  view  on  this  continent.  This  steamer,  the  "  A. 
Williams,"  plies  between  St.  Albans  Bay,  the  North  and 
South  rieros,  and  Plattsburgh. 

PROM   SARATOGA  "^RINGS    AND    LAKE 

QEOBGE  TO  FLATTSBUEGH  AND  THE 

AU  SABLE  CHASM. 

Leave  Saratoga  at  0.  20  A.  M.,  or  7.15  P.  M.,  Whitehall  at 
11.15  A.  M..  or  0.15  P.  M.  ;  Burlington  at  3.30  A.  M.,  or  5.00 
P.  M.  Arrive  at  Plattsburgh  4.30  A.  M.,  or  C.30  P.  M.,  irom 
thence  to  Port  Kent  by  boat,  and  by  stage,  3  miles  to  the 
Chasm. 

If  en  route  from  the  White  Mountains  to  Lake  George,  go 
direct  to  Burlington,  take  steamer  from  Burlington  to  Port 
Kent,  thence  by  Stage,  3  miles  to  Au  Sable  Chasm;  take  the 
evening  boat  to  Plattsburgh  ;  pass  the  night  at  Fouquet's, 
and  take  the  day-boat  the  following  day  for  Lake  George, 
or  evening  boat  from  Burlington  direct  to  Plattsburgh  boat  ; 
the  folloAving  morning  to  Pert  Kent  and  the  Chasm  ;  even- 
ing boat  to  Burlington,  or  through  the  lake  same  evening, 
from  Port  Kent, — spending  the  day  at  the  Chasm. 

U  en  route  from  Saratoga  to  the  White  Mountains,  and 
you  wish  to  visit  the  Chasm,  go  direct  to  Plattsburgh,  and 
take  steamer  next  morning  for  Port  Kent,  thence  by  stage, 
2  miles  ;  pass  the  day  at  the  Chasm,  take  the  boat  same 
evening  for  Burlington  and  proceed  on  your  journey  next 
morning  from  that  point. 


APPENDIX 


Vlt 


1871. 


1871, 


Route  to  the  Adirondacks. 


Great  iaducanicnts  are  now  offered  to  Business  men,  for 
recreation,  to  visit  the  Adirondacks,  the  most  healtliy  and 
picturesque  region  in  America, 

Business  men,  Sportsmen  and  Parties  contemplating  a 
trip  to  the  Wilderness,  should  notice  the  unusual  facilities 
offered  this  season,  making  the  woods  easy  of  access. 

Arrangements  have  been  completed  to  run  a  regular  daily 
mail  and  Express  line  of  Four  Horue  Coaches  by  the  "  Adi- 
rondack Stage  Co. "  to  the  Saranric  and  St.  Regis  region, 
leaving  Point  of  Rocks,  Ausable  'Station,  the  terminal  sta- 
tion on  the  Whitehall  and  Plattsburgh  Railroad.every  morn- 
ing on  arrival  of  the  train, — reaching  Paul  Smith's  and  Mar- 
tin's early  the  same  day.  A  telegraph  line  is  now  erected 
to  Paul  Smith's  and  Martin's,  from  which  dispatches  can  be 
speedily  carried  to  all  parts  of  the  Wilderness.  In  short,  the 
tourist,  sportsman  and  invalid,  can  now  visit  this  won- 
derful region  with  rapidity  and  ease. 

RoxTTE  From  Boston. — Leave  by  trains  via  Fitchburgh 
or  Lowell  depot  at-  7.30  A.  M.,  or  5.33  P.  M.  for  Burlington, 
making  close  connections  with  the  steamers  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain  to  Plattsburgh,  thence  via  the  W.  &  P.  Railroad  to 
Point  of  Rocks,  Au  Sable  Station, — hence  by  stage. 

Parties  leaving  Boston  on  the  morning  train,  can  remain 
over  night  at  Plattsburgh  and  resume  their  journey  in  the 
morning. 

Route  Fuom  New  York. — Via  Hudson  or  Ilarlem  Rail- 
roads, or  Hudson  River  Line  of  Steamers  to  Troy  or  Albany, 
thence  by  Renaseher  and  Saratoga  Railroad,  and  by  Lake 
Champlain  Steamers  from  Whitehall. 

fgy*Ticket8  can  now  be  purchased,  and  baggage  checked 
direct  to  Paul  Smith's  and  Martin's. 


VUI 


APPENDIX. 


Bii 


I  ! 


:A;l 


I 


LAItE     OEOI^OE, 


This  large,  well-known,  and  charmingly  situated  Hotel  is 
newly  opened  by  the  present  proprietors  for  the  accomoda- 
tion of  pleasure  tourists  during  the  season  of  1871,  It  has 
been  thoroughly  fitted  up  and  provided  with  every  conven- 
ience and  luxury  for  the  comfort  and  recreation  of  its  guests, 
and  no  pains  will  be  spared  to  make  the  LAKE  HOUSE,  in 
every  respect,  unsurpassed  as  a  most  attractive  and  delight- 
ful place  of  Summer  resort. 

Direct  communication  by  rail  and  boat  from  New  York, 
Boston  and  Montreal.  Parties  desiring  rooms  will  please 
address  EGBERT  J.  GALE, 

Caldwell,  Warren  Co.,  N.  Y.  Proprietor. 

Notary    Public,   Surveyor,   Broker, 

And  Dealer  !n  REAL  ESTATE, 

Offers  for  sale  on  reasonable  terms,  oO,000  acres  of  Valua- 
ble Timber  and  Farming  Lands,  situate  in  Clinton,  Essex, 
Franklin,  Hamilton,  St.  Lawrence,  Warren,  and  other  coun- 
ties. A  good  portion  oi  the  above  lands  located  in  and 
around  the  northern  Wilderness,  making  desirable  lots  for 
fitting  up  summer  Ledges,  &c.  Enclose  stamp  for  list  of 
Lots  to  HIRAM  BUCK, 

Keal  Estate  Agent, 

Essex  Co.,  N.  Y.  Crown  Point  (.'enter. 


«>i\ 


''% 


!# 


Crown  Point,  Essex  Co.,  N.  Y. 

This  new  and  elegant  Hotel  will  bo  open  this  season. 

Pleasantly  situated  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  for 
beauty  and  convenience  of  location  it  is  unsurpassed.  Exten- 
sive view  of  Champlain  Valley  and  Lake,  (Jreen  Mountains 
■  and  Adirondacks.  Steamboat,  Railroad  and  telegra])h  com- 
munication to  all  points;  (ticket  office  in  the  Hotel.)  On 
the  popular  route  to  Mount  Marcy  and  Indian  Pas^.  Short 
drive  from  old  Crown  Point  and  "  Ti"  Forts,  Putt's  Oak, 
Mineral  Spring,  &c.  House  new ;  rooms  spacious  and  well 
ventilated ;  broad  piazzas ;  cool  exhilerating  breezes  and 
healthful  clinuxte. 

Horses  and  carriages  for  Ondawa  Hotel,  Schroon  Lake, 
Adirondack  region  and  other  points  of  interest,  on  reasoa- 
able  terms.    (Capacity  about  -jO  guests.) 

■  A.  &.W.  O.GUNNISON. 


[otel  is 

)inoda- 

It  has 

onven- 

jTuests, 
ISE,  in 
lelight- 

•  York, 
please 
-E, 
prietor. 


K 


f 


Valiia- 
Essex, 

^r  coun- 
in  and 

ots  for 
list  of 

gent, 
Center. 


AM 


S) 


on. 
ain,  for 

Exten- 

untaina 

)h  com- 

1.)     On 

Short 

s  Oak, 
nd  well 
;es  and 

Lake, 
roasoa- 


A  P  P  E  N  D  r  X  . 


IX 


ctrntoN  mntp 

I>fniiitM»ioi"a, 

BY  R.  K.  L  0.  B.  BROMLEY. 

This  Hotel,  having  been  enlarged  and  improved  by  the 
present  proprietors,  is  now  ready  for  the  entertainnumt  of 
guests  en  route  to  the  Cha/y  and  ether  sales  of  the  Adiron- 
dack region,  and  will  be  found  a  pleasant  resting  plsiee  for 
parties  going  to,  and  returning  from  the  "  Ureat  Wilder- 
ness." Its  rooms  are  commodious  and  airy,  and  tlie  table  is 
always  furnished  with  line  trout  and  game,  and  the  choicest 
of  everything  in  season.  On  the  comi)htion  of  its  new 
sheds  and  stdble.s,  now  nearly  fiiuslied,  it  will  afford  the 
best  accommodaticm  for  horses  to  Ije  found, any  where  in  this 
region. 

A  daily  line  of  Four  Horse  Coaches 
owned  l)y  the  ]»roprietors  of  this  hotel,  affords  easy  and  plea- 
sant transportation  between   Plattsl)urgh  and    Dannemora, 
with  a  branch  running  to  Saranac  and  Kedford.      A  supply 
of  choice  Wines  and  Cigars  constantly  on  hand. 


KEESEVILLE,  N.  Y., 

N.  C.  BOYKTOK,  Proprietcr. 

This   well   known   house   will   continue  to  be  kept  as   a 

FiE&F  €Et^8S  MQFMEf.. 

Its  rooms  are  pleasant,  its  tables  good,  and  every  attention 
will  be  paid  to  the  traveller,  whether  on  business  or  for 
pleasure. 


ON, 


Located  at  the  head  of  Tapper's  Lake. 

This  Lodge  is  situated  in  the  finest  Hunting  and  Fishing 
Tegion  in  the  Wilderness. 

Board  and  Lodging  per  week,  .$10.()().  i3oard  and  lodgin/^ 
per  day,  $1.00. 

WM.  W.  6EAVES, 

P.  O.  Address,  ^^aranuc  Lake,  N.  Y.  Proprietor. 


iM 


;^1 


■M 


I  M 


if 


Rifi 


APPENDIX. 


HOTEL, 


Big  Tupper  Lake. 


TliiB  house  is  pleasantly  situated  at  tlie  foot  of  the  lake, 
in  the  midst  of  the  very  best  hunting  and  fishing  grounds. 
Guides  and  boats  and  all  necessary  supplies  furnished  at 
reasonable  rates.  The  place  can  be  easily  reached  from 
Long  Lake  and  from  the  hotels  on  St.  Regis  and  Saranac 
Lakes.%  About  fifty  guests  can  be  accommodated.  Board, 
50  cents  per  meal  and  50  cents  lodging.  Ten  dollars  by 
the  week. 


M.  M.  MOODY, 

Proprietor. 


P.  O.  Haranac  Lake. 


liOWBR  SARANAC  LAKE. 


^ 


This  house  has  been  doubled  in  capacity  the  last  year  and 
will  accommodate  150  guests.  It  is  in  the  immediate  vici- 
nity of  the  best  hunting  grounds  and  fishing,  (both  Lake  and 
the  speckled  brook  Trout),  in  the  Wilderness,  and  is 
centrally  situated  for  access  to  other  resorts.  It  is  connected 
with  Keeseville  and  Point  of  Rocks  by  daily  stages,  carry- 
ing the  mail,  and  by  triweekly  stages  with  Westport,  via 
Elizabethtown,  Keene  and  North  Elba  ;  Stages  also  run 
through  Wilmington  Notch.  Telegraph  and  Post  olfices  at 
the  house.  The  location  renders  it  a  desirable  summer  re- 
sidence for  families.  There  is  a  croquet  ground  on  the 
premises.  Horses  and  carriages  in  readiness  for  guests. 
Qood  guides  and  boat  supplied  at  $2.50  or  $3.00  per  day. 
Board  i$2.50  the  day  and  $12.00  the  week,  governed  bj 
quality  of  rooms. 

Nothing  will  be  omitted  to  aecure  Iho  confort  and  enjoy- 
ment of  patrons. 

W.  F.  MARTIN. 

Saranac  Lako,  P,  O. 


A  I^  P  E  N  D  I  X  . 


Xt 


Crowji   Point,  M.   Y, 


§ 


This  well-known  and  popular  house  is  situated  at  Ham- 
mond's Corners,  one  mile  from  the  Steamboat  landing  and 
the  W.  and  P.  R.  K.  depot,  and  on  the  direct  road  leading 
to  the  "  Old  Fort "  at  Crown  Point,  Ticonderoga,  I^ake 
George  and  the  Adirondack  Wilderness.  Telegrapii  office, 
next  door.  This  being  the  principal  business  portion  ot 
the  town,  business  men  and  pleasure  seekers  will  find  good 
accommodations.  Teams  ai  short  notice  and  upon  reasona- 
ble terms.  A.  J.  BENNETT, 

Proprietor. 


Brasher  Falls  Depot,  N,  Y, 


'«» 


This  is  the  nearest  depot  to  Massena  Springs.  Daily 
stages  during  pleasure  travel.also  good  livery  accommodation 
for  conveying  passengers.  Ample  accommodations  for 
guests  who  come  on  evening  trains  to  remain  over  night. 

L.  H.  DUNTON, 

Proprietor. 


m 


ml 


BY  M.  MEADER  &  BROTHEB. 

This  new  Hotel  is  delightfully  located  on  the  East  shore 
of  Chazy  Lake,  betneen  Eagle  Point  and  Half-way  Point, 
the  site  having  been  selected  for  its  pleasant  surroundings, 
and  the  fine  view  it  aftbrds  of  the  Lake  and  surrounding 
scenery.  It  has  been  fitted  up  and  furnished  with  every 
convenience  for  the  comfort  of  guests,  and  will  be  found  a 
delightful  resort,  for  gentlemen  and  ladies  seeking  health 
ftnd  recreation  during  the  summer. 

BOATS  AND  GUIDES 

will  be  in  readiness  at  all  times  for  the  accommodation  of 
fishing  and  hunting  parties. 

CHAIiaES  L\  ALL  CAh^lJS,  nEASOXAnLi:. 


11 


1^'  > 


m 


XII 


A  r  P  E  N  D  I  X  . 


WHITEFACE 

WESTON  &  AYEE, Proprietors, 

WILMINGTON, 

E>b!Scx    County,     -  -  -    INOv    Yoi*lc. 

This  House  is  situated  on  the  Ausable  llivcr,  at  tlie  base  of  Wliite- 
face  Mountain,  (5,000  feet  in  height,)  amid  the  wild  and  l)eantiful 
scenery  of  th(i  Adirondacks.  Tlie  view  from  Wliitelacc  is  ma^'niUcent 
beyond  description.  Loolilnii;  towards  the  North  we  behold  Lalve 
Ontario,  and  the  brltfht  waters  of  the  distant  St.  Lawrence.  To  the 
South  the  central  jrroup  of  the  A  Ihondacks  looms  up  in  savage  mag- 
nificence ;  to  the  East  we  behold  a  few  little  villages,  while  farther 
away  may  be  seen  the  Green  Mountains  and  the  broad  bosom  of  Lake 
Champlain,  and  still  beyond  we  mark  the  dim  outlines  of  the  White 
Mountains;  to  the  West  a  long  chain  of  Lakes  lies  full  m  view,  and 
at  the  foot  of  the  Mountain  lies  Lake  Placid— picture  of  fairy  land ; 
while  upon  every  side  you  behold  dense,  deep  forests,  as  fai  as  the 
eye  can  reach.  There  is  so  much  variety  in  the  scene  that  all  the 
elements  ol  beauty  and  grandeur  seem  blended  together. 

This  house  is  situated  on  the  most  direct  route  to  Saranac  Lakes. 
In  going  by  this  route  you  pass  the  Flume,  Big  and  Little  Falls,  on  the 
Ausabie.  within  half  a  mile  of  John  Brown's  Grave,  and  through  the 
celebrated  Wilmington  Pass,  thai  great  natural  wonder,  of  which  the 
typos  have  already  given  so  many  accounts.  The  lover  of  nature  will 
be  charmed  beyond  expression  by  the  grandeur  and  beauty  with 
which  it  is  invested.  More  than  one-fourth  of  a  mile  the  Pass  is  only 
of  eutticient  width  for  the  passage  of  the  carriage  road  and  river.  On 
cither  hand  rise  the  river  rocks  towering  almost  perpendicular  hun- 
dreds of  feet  above  you. 

Stages  will  be  in  waiting  at  Ausabie  Station  ujjon  the  arrival  of 
trains,  to  convey  passengers  to  the  Whitelaco  Mountain  House  and 
Saranac  Lakes  by  Wilmington  Pass.  Passengers  going  by  this  route 
to  Saranac  Lakes  can  stop  at  the  Whitel'ace  Mouiuain  House  and 
have  an  opportunity  ot  ascending  the  Mountain,  and  be  carried  for 
the  same  price  as  if  they  went  through  direct. 

Distance  from  this  House  to  Saranac  Lakes,  23  miles;  Keone  Flats, 
14  miles;  North  Elba,  Vi  miles;  Indian  Pass,  18  miles;  Koesevillc 
23  miles;  St  llegis,  :37  miles;  Ausabie  «Station,  13  miles;  Elizabeth- 
town,  '33  miles.  ~ 

Boats  will  ba  provided  on  the  River,  to  accommodate  the  guests 
of  the  House  ;  also,  necessary  attendants,  at  all  times. 

Guides,  Carriages  and  good  Saddle  Horses,  for  ascending  the  Moun- 
tain, provided  at  any  time  desired.    The  proprietors  of  the  Mountaiu 
House  have  erected  a  comfortable  rustic  house  near  the  summit,  ia 
which  can  be  obtained  good  board  and  comfortable  lodging. 

Parties  desiring  a  place  of  summer  resort  will  find  this  a**  i)leasaut 
tnd  healthy  locality  as  can  be  found  in  Northern  New  York.  Charges 
reasonable.  No  paina  will  be  spared  to  render  the  stay  of  the  guests 
pleasant.  Yours,  very  truly, 

OEORGR  WESTON,  ».  p,on,iotoi.* 
GEOiitiE  AVER,        J  i  »«P»  i^Tors, 

Wilmington,  N.Y. 


A  !•  I'  E  N  D  I  X  . 


XI 11 


A  Popular  Summer  Rsjsort. 


Alburgh  Springis,  ¥t. 


The  friends  and  patrons  of  tliess  Springs  will  he  pleased 
to  learn  that  this  commodious  and  thoroughly  appointed 
Hotel,  which  will  compare  favorably  with  any  in  the  coun- 
try for  elejjfance  and  comfort,  will  be  opened  for  the  recep- 
tion of  jruests,  June  10th,  1811. 

This  House  (which  encloses  in  its  grounds  the  principal 
Springs)  is  located  near  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Missis(iuoi 
Bay,  Lake  Champlain,  sixteen  miles  north  from  St.  Albans 
and  ten  miles  t^ast  from  Houses'  Point,  on  tha  line  of  the 
Vermont  Central  K.  K.  The  depot  is  within  one  mile  of 
the  House,  and  the  Carriage.3,  and  attentive  porters  of  the 
Hotel  are  always  in  attendance. 

The  lake  and  mountain  scenery  U  picturesque  and  grand. 
The  facilities  for  boating,  shooting  and  fishing  render  this 
region  peculiarly  attractive  to  Artists,  Sportsmen  and  Plea- 
sure-seekers. The  proprietor  has  made  arrangements  with 
the  favorite  Excursion  Steamer  "  A.  Williams,"  to  make 
Excursion  trips  among  the  beautiful  Islands  in  the  vicinity, 
or  to  Plattsburgh  and  the  great  Ausable  Chasm  twice  a  week 
if  parties  so  desire.  These  famous  Lithia  and  Sulphur  Springs 
are  now  esteemed  by  the  Medical  profession  as  th.e  most 
valuable  in  America  in  point  of  Medicinal  and  Curative  pro- 
perties. 

The  Bathing  facilities  are  good  ;  a  large  and  commodious 
Bath  House  at  the  Springs  furnishes  both  Hot  and  Cold  baths 
of  the  Lithia  and  Sulphur  Waters.  (For  lull  particulars  see 
pam])hlets.) 

The  Drives  in  the  immediate  vicinity  i>resent  the  greatest 
attractions.  Horses,  Carriages  and  Boats,  with  guides,  al- 
ways at  commmid  of  guests. 

Where  the  Alburgh  Springs  Water  can  be  obtained, 

Messrs.  Hiirr  it  I'l'i  ry,  Hi  Trcnioiit  8t.,  Boston.  Messrs.  Rust,  Broc. 
A  Bh'd,  4-1  Hanover  St.,  Boston.  At  eorner  of  Bromtield  and  Wash- 
jngton  ISls..  on  (h'iuii^lit  and  by  tlic  ease.  Hoyt  &  Blanehard,  20.3  Green- 
wich St.  New  York.  Dr.  Hubbard  Foster,  81  Franklin  St.,  Buffalo, 
N.  Y.  Dr.  llenrv  Fosfr.  C'lil'ton  Springs,  N.  Y.  Messrs.  Johnson, 
Ilolloway  &  Cowdin,  (m  Arch  St.,  Philadolphia,  Penn.  V,.  V.  Fisko, 
219  South  ("lark  St.,  (!hieajj;o,  111.  Messrs.  Farrand,  Sherluy  &  4Jo., 
Detroit,  Mich.    William  VVasten,  Port  Huron,  Mich, 

Of  the  Proprietor, 

WILLARl)  SEARS,  No.  14i  Washin-,'ton  St.,  Boston,  JtfaHS. 

And  at  AlburL,di  Springs  of  [>,   S.   CUTTINCy  Mauager, 
Of  wliotn  Rooms  nifiy  bo  engaijed  in  advance. 


m 


II 


'I  i 


i 


'"I 


:SS 


1 ' 


XIV 


APPENDIX 


S.  &  R.  S.  WIRES' 


General     Insurance      Agency, 
Corner  of  Charch  and  College  Streets, 

Burlington,     Vermont 


•-♦♦♦— 


Capital  Represented,  -^80,000,000. 


-♦♦♦-••- 


Fire  and    Marine  Insurance  to  any  amount  eftected  in  rc- 
tponsible  Companies  on  the  most  satisfactory  terms, 

This  A(.i>'Mrif  was  cMnbUsUed  in  1846. 


A  P  r  E  N  D  I  X  . 


XV 


t^mM     Mfj  f  Mma 


2) 
BXJRLIIVOTOIV,    VT. 

Recently  enlarged  and  iiii proved. 

H.  H.  HOWE  &  00., 

Proprietors. 

A  large  and  extensive  livery  establislur.ent  in  connection 
with  this  house. 

Western  Union  Telegrsiph  Office  and  Ticket  Offices  for 
the  various  lines  of  Railway  and  tSteaniboat,  in  the  House.j 


Corner  of  Main  and  St.  Paul  Streets, 

BURLIIVOTOIV,    VT- 

This  House  is  the  largest  in  Burlington,  and  will  rank  as 
one  of  the  most  convenient  and  thorouglily  constructed 
Houses  in  New  England.  Its  location  is  in  the  centre  of 
the  city,  standing  on  the  site  of  the  "  Old  Howard  Hotel." 
The  House  fronts  on  the  park,  and  commands  an  unob- 
structed view  of  Lake  Champlain,  the  Adirondack  and 
Green  Mountains  and  other  picturesque  scenery.  Tiie  Fur- 
nishing of  the  house  are  all  new  and  modern.  The  proprie- 
tors, having  had  many  years  experience  in  the  business,  feel 
confident  that  they  can  cater  successfully  to  the  require- 
ments of  the  travelling  public.  Guests  may  rely  upon  re- 
ceiving courteous  attention  and  being  supplied  with  all  the 
comforts  ot  a  first  class  house. 

A  Billiard  Hall,  Barlier's  Sliop  and  Batli  Room 

are  connected  witli  the  House.    Carriages  for  the  Van  Ness 
House  will  attend  the  arrival  of  all  the  trains  and  boats. 

DANIEL  C.  BARBER, 
OSCAR  B.  FERGUSON, 

Proprietors. 


Ao        li  A  Sf  tJ 


S) 


ST.  PAUL  STREET, 


BI^RLINGTON,   VT. 

Pleasure  Parties  can  at  all  times  be  supplied  with  first- 
class  '•  turn-outs ;"  also  experienced  and  careful  drivers. 


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XVI 


APPENDIX. 


Mount  MansfiGld  Hotsl 


Tli'H  ci'l(?l)rated  place  of  siiniriier  resort  iiH'onls  extra  in- 
ducements to  the  ])ub]i('  to  visit  it  and  its  snrroundinpjs. 
Board  will  I.e  at  a  reduced  price  in  luiruK.ny  with  the  down- 
ward tendency  of  values.  The  j^roprietors  are  determined 
not  to  be  excelled  in  their  attention  to  jruej^ts,  nor  in  cour- 
tesy to  tliem  bv  their  ( mi>lovees. 

The  walks  and  drives  cannot  be  surpass  ,'d.  Sunset  Hill, 
a  short  distance  from  the  Hotel,  connnands  a  fine  view  of 
the  mountains  and  surraundinfj:  country.  The  drives  are 
fine — Mount  Mansfield,  eight  miles  ;  Smuggler's  Notch, 
one  of  the  most  wild  and  romantic  jilaces  in  the  country, 
eight  miles  ;  Bingham's  Fulls,  live  miles  ;  iSIoss  (lieu  Falls, 
three  and  one  half  miles;  Gold  Brook,  three  miles  ;  West 
Hill,  two  miles  ;  Morrisville  Falls,  eight  miles  ;  Johnson's 
Falls,  twelve  nnles  ;   Nebraska,  six  nnles. 

The  Mount  Manslielcl  is  a  new  hotel,  and  has  rooms  for 
four  hundred  guests.  The  rooms  are  airy,  with  good  spring 
beds  ;  large,  and  in  suits  or  private  ])arlors,  as  may  be  de- 
sired. The  hotel  is  brilliantly  lighted  with  pas,  made  on  the 
premises,  and  guests  will  therefore  not  be  subject  to  any  dis- 
agreeable smoke  or  sniidl  from  oil  or  canii)hene.  Valuable 
medicinal  spring  watei  is  furnished  at  the  hotel,  free  of 
charge. 

An  extensive  livery  is  connected  with  the  hotel,  and  abun- 
dant stable  room  for  those  who  desire  their  own  teams  ;  also, 
billiard  tables,  bowling-alleys,  cafe,  croquet  grounds,  and 
tlieatre  ;  with  telegrajdi  office  near  the  hotel.     A  carriage 


APPENDIX. 


XVII 


el, 


ift/ 


xtra  in- 
.indinpfs, 
down- 
nil  ined 
n  cour- 

;t  Hill, 

view  of 
ivos  are 

Notch, 
•ountiy, 
'u  Falls, 
West 

inson's 

ins  for 
spring 
1)0  de- 
on  the 

iny  dis- 
luablo 

I  roe  of 

1  abiin- 
;  also, 
s,   and 
irriage 


road  has  been  constructed  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Mansfield 
(about  five  thousand  feet  high),  on  which  is  an  excellent 
hotel,  making  the  most  delightful  mountain  trip  possible. 

The  route  to  Mt.  Mansfield  Hotel  is  via  tiie  Vermont  Cen  - 
tral  Railroad,  leaving  it  at  Waterbury  Station,  Vt. ;  thence, 
ten  miles  by  stage,  to  Stowe,  through  the  finest  scenery  in 
the  Green  Mountains. 

Tickets  can  be  obtained  of  Lansing  Millis,  at  Sears'  Build- 
ing, No.  65  Washington  Street,  Boston  ;  No.  0  Astor  House, 
and  all  the  principal  hotels  in  New  York ;  Continental 
Hotel,  No.  811  Chestnut  Street,  and  Penn.  H.  IJ.  Offices,  in 
Philadelphia ;  Phil.  W.  &:  B.  R.  R.  and  No.  Central  Railway 
ticket  offices,  Baltimore;  N.  C.  Ry.  and  B.  &  O.  R.  R.  ticket 
officios,  Penn.  Ave.,  Washington,  D.  C. :  Richmond,  Va.,  and 
])rincipal  cities  South  ;  at  International  and  Cataract  Houses, 
Niagara  Falls  ;  at  Saratoga  Springs,  and  at  No.  i]0  Great  St. 
James  Street,  Montreal.  Also,  on  board  the  Steamboats  on 
Lake  Chaiiiplain. 

ONDAAA^A     HOTEL, 

Schroon  Lake,  Essex  Co.,  N.  Y. 

This  popular  and  well  established  summer  resort  is  situa- 
ted on  the  shortest,  most  direct,  commodious  and  picturesque 
route  from  Saratoga  and  the  South,  to  the  Adirondack  Wil- 
derness,  Mount  Marcy,  Indian  Pass,  &c.,  (see  mai>). 

Adirondack  R,  R.  to  the  "  New  Bridge," — 5  miles  by 
coach  to  foot  of  Schroon  Lake — 9  miles  bv  Steamer  to  the 
"  Ondawa,"  thence  bv  carriage  to  Mud  Pond  and  Bridle 
Path  to  the  base  of  Mount  Marcy,  20  miles  from  the  Ondawa. 

Schroon  Lake,  with  the  balmy  air,  variegated  scenery  and 
picturesque  surroundings,  forms  one  of  the  most  facinating 
retreats,  and  is  fast  superceding  Lake  (Jeorge  ;  while  the 
Ondawa,  towering  above  the  (juiet  village  surrounding  it, 
beckons  the  tourist  to  a  pleasant  rest  before  entering  camp 
life  among  the  mountain  passes.  In  the  midst  of  the  best 
fishing  and  hunting  grounds,  with  croquet  park,  billiard 
hall,  Quadrille  and  brass  band  ;  spacious  and  airy  suits  of 
rooms  ;  venison  and  trout  fresh  from  the  surrounding  woods 
and  waters,  all  conspire  to  render  a  stay  pleasing  to  all 
tastes  and  clastT^s 

liivery  stables  attached.  Charges  moderate.  Capacity 
100  or  more. 

J.  D.  BURWELL, 

Schroon  Lake,  N.  V.  Proprietor. 


XVIII 


APPENDIX 


B' ; 


!  I 


PAUL  SMITHES  HOTEL, 

This  Hotel  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Lower  St. 
Regis  liake,  on  tlie  head  waters  of  the  St.Regis  River,  and  is 
in  tlie  immediate  vicinity  of  the  best  hunting  and  fishing 
grounds  in  the  Great  Wilderness.  To  the  south  lay  the 
great  chain  of  the  Saranac  Lakes  and  the  John  Brown  tract. 
To  the  northward  there  is  a  chain  of  lakes  and  ponds  for  a 
distance  of  twenty  miles,  where  there  is  fine  fishing.  To 
the  westward,  the  St.  Regis  River  and  innumerable  lakes 
and  ponds  emptying  into  it,  which  have  as  yet  hardly  been 
visited  by  the  sportsmen. 

This  house  is  delightfully  situated  in  an  extensive  pine 
grove,  and  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the  dense  forest. 
It  is  supplied  with  delicious  water  from  Mountain  Pond,  a 
distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  It  has  good  accommoda- 
tions for  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  A  guide  and  boat 
house,  with  accommodations  for  one  hundred  guides  and 
boats,  is  connected  with  the  hotel. 

Parties  going  into  the  wildernesa  to  camp  out,  can  be 
furnished  with  ever/thing  complete  for  their  comfort,  such 
as  tents,  camp  equipage,  blankets,  &c.,  which  will  bo  leased 
to  them  ;  and  also  all  kinds  of  stores,  consisting  of  provi- 
sions, canned  fruits,  condensed  milk,  coffee,  &c.,  at  satisfac- 
tory rates,  thereby  saving  much  trouble  in  transporting  the 
same  articles  from  distances.  From  St.  Regis  Lake  to  the 
Saranac  Lakes  there  are  but  two  portages,  one  of  a  mile  and 
a  quarter  and  the  other  one-eighth  of  a  mile,  where  horses 
are  always  kept  for  transporting  parties  across.  There  is  a 
Telegraph  Office  connected  with  the  house. 

There  is  an  extensive  livery  stable  connected  with  the 
house.  Guests,  by  writing  or  telegraphing  to  the  proprietor 
have  good  horses  and  carriages,  and  careful  drivers,  to  meet 
them  at  any  point  desired,  and  at  reasonable  rates. 

There  has  been  an  extensive  addition  made  to  the  house 
this  season,  consisting  of  Billiard  room,  Bath  rooms  and 


Barber  shop. 


A.  A.  SMITH, 

Proprietor. 


APPEN  D  f  X 


XIX 


EL, 


)wer  St. 
r,  and  is 
fishing 
lay  the 
ivn  tract, 
ids  for  a 
ing.  To 
le  lakes 
dly  been 

ive  pine 
3  forest. 
Pond,  a 
>mmoda' 
ind  boat 
ides  and 

can  be 
>rt,  such 
o  leased 

provi- 
satisfac- 
ting  the 

to  the 
nile  and 
9  horses 
ere  is  a 

ith  the 
)prletor 
to  meet 

house 
ms  and 

I, 

rietor. 


1 


ST 


HOfELp 


Permit  us  the  liberty  of  calling  your  attention  to  the 
above  well-known  Hotel,  situated  in  one  of  the  pleasantest 
parts  of  the  City,— on  Victoria  Square, — in  the  vicinity  of 
Public  Offices,  Banks,  &c.,  which  has  been  newly  furnished, 
and  undergone  numerous  alterations  with  additions  to  ren- 
der it  a 


f 


I  R  ST 


P 


LASS 


W  O 


TEL 


In  making  the  improvements,  the  Proprietors  have  taken 
particular  pains  to 

Provide  every  Comfort  for  Oaests. 
They  have  fitted  the  house  up  with  all  the  modern  iiuprove- 
ments, 

BATH  ROOMS  and  CLOSET 

have  been  added  to  every  floor.  They  feel  satisfied  that 
they  can  offer  accommodation  which  cannot  fall  to  give  sat- 
isfaction to  parties  favoring  them  with  their  patronage. 

The  long  experience  of  Messrs.  Hogan  and  (lerJken  in  the 
Hotel  Business,  with  Mr.  Mougomery  as  Manager,  (who  has 
Acted  as  such  in  foreign  countries  as  well  as  in  this,)  will  be 
a  guarantee  that  the  ST.  JAMES  will  be 

Second  to  no  Hotel  in  the  lominion. 

It  will  be  optional  for  parties  desiring  Rooms  at  the  St. 
James,  to  engage  them 

Witli    or    Witlioiit    Uonx-cl, 

for  which  the  most  moderate  prices  will  be  charged. 


XX 


APPENDIX 


i^' 


M 


I: 


Montreal,  Dominion  of  Canada. 

TJie  undersigned  respectfully  inform  their  numerous 
friends  and  patrons  in  Canada,  and  the  United  States,  that, 
by  the  recent  enh\rgement  and  improvements  effected  in  this 
establishment,  they  are  now  ])repared  to  accommodate  over 
850  guests.  The  Ottawa  Hotel  covers  the  entire  space  of 
ground  running?  between  St.  James  and  Notre  Dame  Sts., 
and  has  two  beautiful  fronts ;  the  one  on  the  light,  represents 
the  front  on  >iotre  Dame  St.,  and  the  other  on  the  left,  the 
St.  James  St.  front.  The  house  has  been  thoroughly  refitted 
and  furnished  with  every  reju^ard  to  comfort  and  luxury  ; 
and  has  hot  and  cold  water  baths  acd  closets  on  each  floor. 
The  aim  has  been  to  make  this  the  most  unexceptionable 
first-class  hotel  in  Montreal.  Messrs.  Burnett  &  Mather 
trust  that  their  long:  experience  in  fir?t-clas3  hotels  in  New 
York  City  and  the  United  States,  will  give  confidence  to 
their  frends  and  the  travelling  public  that  they  will  receive 
every  comfort  and  attention  at  the  Ottawa. 

Carriages,  with  attentive  drivers,  can  be  had  at  all  times 
by  application  at  the  office;  coaches  will  also  be  found  at 
the  Railway  depot  and  Steamboat  Landing  on  the  arrival 
of  the  several  trains  and  Steamers. 

BURNETT  &  MATHER, 

Proprietors. 

1>.  C.  Burnett,  late  proprietor  of  Woodruflf  House,  Water, 
town,  N.  Y.  St.  James  Hotel  Montreal.  E.  C.  Mather, 
late  of  Barnum's  Hotel,  Baltimore,  Md. 


A  i»  r  E  N  D  r  X . 


XXI 


numerous 
atfs,  that, 
ted  in  this 
(date  over 

si)ace  of 
me  Sts., 
represents 

left,  the 
y  refitted 

luxury  ; 
ich  floor. 

)tionable 
Mather 

in  New 
dence  to 

I  receive 

all  times 
bund  at 
3  arrival 

rietors. 

J,  Water, 
Mather, 


5T,  LAWRENCE  HALL, 


■:!'f^t1fftT 


SITUATED  ON  ST.  JAMES  STREET, 


J» 


H.  HOGAN, 


ProiDnetcr. 


This  first-class  hotel  (the  larjjcst  in  Montreal)  is  situated 
on  St.  James  Street,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  French 
Cathedral,  or  Church  "  Ville  Mari(\"  Notre  Dame  Street, 
adjoining  the  Post  Office,  Place  d'Armes  and  Banks  ;  is  only 
one  minute's  walk  from  (ircy  or  Black  Nunneries,  new 
Court  House,  lieadinii:  Uooms,  Champ  de  Mars,  (where  tlie 
troops  are  revie\v(>d),  Mechanics'  Institute,  Bonsccours  Mar- 
ket, and  Fashionable  Stores.  The  new  Theatre  Koval  is  di- 
rectly  in  rear  of  the  House,  and  several  of  the  best  boxes  are 
regularly  kept  forUuests  of  this  Hotel. 

The  St.  Lawrence  Hall  has  lon<^  been  regaid(>d  as  the 
most  popular  and  fashionable  Hotel  in  Montreal,  and  is  pa- 
tronized by  the  Government  on  all  public  occasions,  includ- 
ing that  of  the  visit  of  His  Boyal  Highness  the  Prince  of 
Wales  and  suite,  and  that  of  His  Excellency  the  Governor 
General  and  suite.  During  the  past  winter,  the  Hotel  has 
been  considerably  enlarged,  so  that  in  future  the  Proprietor 
hopes  to  be  able  to  accommodate  comfortably  all  who 
may  favor  him  with  their  patronage.  All  Kooms  light- 
ed by  gas.  The  Consulnte  Olfice  of  the  United  States  is  in 
the  Hotel,  as  well  as  Telegraph  OlHce  to  all  parts.  The 
Proprietor  begs  to  announce  that  having  recently  purchased 
the  St.  Lawrence  Hall  property,  it  is  his  intention  next  fill 
to  pull  down  and  rebuild  it  with  all  the  modern  improve- 
ments, including  an  Elevator ;  thus  making  this  Hotel 
second  to  none  in  the  United  States. 


! 


li 


XXII 


A  r  1>  £  N  D  I  X 


BARTLETFS    HOTEL. 


This  vrell-known  house  is  pleasantly  situated  upon  the 
portaf^e  between  Round  Lake  and  the  Upper  Saranac,  and 
is  on  the  regular  route  to  Racquette,  Long  and  other  lakes, 
visited  by  pleasure  seekers  and  si)ortsmen.  This  house  is 
located  in  the  vicinity  of  good  hunting  and  fishing-  grounds. 
Guides  and  boats  can  always  be  furnished  at  this  place  to 
guests.  Tents,  camp  equipage,  blankets,  kept  on  hand  to 
let  to  parties,  and  stores  of  all  kinds  desirable  to  take  into 
the  Wilderness,  can  be  procured  at  satisfactory  rates.  This 
house  is  located  12  miles  above  Martin's  hotel,  the  terminus 
of  the  stage  route.  A  line  of  four-horse  stages  has  been 
placed  upon  the  route,  running  from  Point  of  Rocks  Station 
on  the  Whitehall  &  Plattsburgh  railroad.  Transportation 
from  Martin's  is  by  boat.  Through  tickets  by  railroad  and 
stage  to  Martin's,  can  be  procured  at  all  regular  ticket 
offices,  upon  the  lake  Champlain  steamers,  and  at  Fowjuet's 
Hotel,  Plattsburgh,  N.  Y.  Telegraph  dispatches  will  be 
forwarded  from  the  office  at  Martin's  hotel  with  dispatch. 

V.  0.  BARTLETT, 

Proprietor. 


SAEANAC  and  ST.  REGIS  LAKES. 


Mail  Stages  leave  Keeseville  and  Au  Sable  River  Station 
doily  for  Martin's,  Bartlett's  and  St.  Regis.  Leave  Keeet 
ville  at  6i  A.  M.  and  Ausable  River  Station  at  8i  A.  M. 

Returning,  leave  Saranac  Lakes  at  7  A.  M.,  and  connect- 
ing with  the  train  at  Ausable  River  Station  at  4i  P.  M. 

Stages  leave  Ausable  River  Station  Tuesdays,  Thursdays 
and  Saturdays,  for  Martin's  and  Bartlett's,  via  Whiteface 
Mountain,  Wilmington  Pass,  North  Elba  and  Lake  Placid. 
Returning  intermediate  days. 

Passengers  taken  expeditiously  and  safely  to  any  part  of 
the  country,  and  the  guests  of  the  AUSABLE  HOUSE  can 
at  all  times  be  provided  with  a  turn-out  to  visit  the  Chasm, 
and  other  natural  curiosities  and  interesting  scenery  in  the 
neighborhood. 

CiT'  Teams  always  on  hand  to  convey  passengers  to  the 
Saranac  Lakes  and  St.  Regis,  secured  by  letter  or  telegraph, 
and  on  terms  that  will  be  perfectly  satisfactory. 

CSr  Livery  Establishment,  Stable  and  Barns  at  Ausable 
House,  Keeseville,  N.  Y. 

WILLIAM   HARPER. 


A  I'  !•  E  N  D I  X 


xxiir 


FULLER'S 


I^I^^JEIt^ 


^r- 


^r 


x^^ni^ii:. 


Two  doors  south  of  the  Tremont  House, 

MAIN    STREET,   ST.   ALBANS,   YT. 

Nothin<r  but  the  l)est  of  stock  in  liorsps  and  carriages  of 
all  styles,  kept  at  this  establishment. 

WM.  &  E.  D.  FULLER, 

Proprietors. 

ST^aB  amCJETES 

Hetwccn  Port  Koit,  A  Uindble  Chasm  and  /vecseviUe, 
and  betireoi  Kccseville  and  Pent  Station. 

The  subscriber  will  run  elegant  carriages  in  connection 
with  the  steamers  and  trains.  Extra  carriages  will  at  all 
times  convey  parties  to  and  from  the  boat  and  cars.or  Chasm, 
when  requested  by  letter  or  telegram.  His  livery  stable 
will  at  all  hours  supply  horses  and  carriages,  and  he  will  be 
always  prv-^pared  to  furnish  livery  or  freight  teams,  with 
superior  r  .'!iveyauces  and  careful  drivers  to  convey  passen- 
gers in  any  direction.  R.  H.  FULLER. 

Keesevillto,  N.  Y. 


HO^WARD  &  CO., 


VILAS'  BUNK  BLOCK, 

PLATTSBUR&H,  N,  T. 

Photographic  views  of  all  the  places  of  Interest  on  Lake 
Champlain,  Lake  George,  Chazy  and  Saranac  Lakes;  also  of 
Smith's  at  the  St.  Regis  Lakes. 

Portrait,  Group  and  all  the  various  styles  of  Portraiture  of 
the  day,  in  the  highest  stvle  of  the  art.   -^ 

HOWARD  &  00. 


XXIV 


APPENDIX 


:©lfW]BHAl 


A 


TELEGRAPH 


coniiPANir, 


3: 


HUGH  ALLEN,  President.  )    vr     f     1 

JAMES  DAKEllS,  Secketahy.        \    ^^'^^}^^^^^^ 
CHARLES  BOURNE,  Tueasukek.  )        ^  *  ^• 

H.  P.  DWICHT,  Gen.  Supt.,  Toronto,  Ont. 

The  Montreal  Telegraph  Company  are  now  working  over 

TwdvG  Thousand  Milss  of  Wire* 

The  same  Company  will,  durinj?  the  curient  year,  erect 
seven  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  Poles,  nearly  all  for  new 
extensions,  into  remote  parts  of  the  country,  and  some  two 
thousand  miles  of  new  wires,  o])enin<r  at  the  same  time 
nearly  one  thousand  new  offices. 

During  the  past  year  this  Company  liave  extended  their 
wires  into  the  Wilderness  of  the  Adirondacks,  establishing 
offices  at  Paul  Smith's,  St.  Regis  Lakes  ;  W.  F.  Martin's, 
Saranac  Lakes ;  MLlote  Baker'.s,  Bloomingdal^,  and  Frank- 
lin Falls.  It  is  expected  during  the  coming  season,  that  the 
wires  will  be  extended  to  White  Face  Mountain,  Wilming- 
ton, N.  Y.,  and  Lake  Placid.  This,  with  the  wires  now  in 
operation  to  Elizabethtown,  N.  Y.,  and  the  Au  Sable  Chasm, 
at  Keeseville,  N.  Y.,  completes  the  link  of  communication  to 
all  points  of  interest. 

The  offices  at  the  Adirondacks  work  direct  with  all  parts 
of  the  United  States  and  Canadas,  and  enables  tourists  to  be 
in  daily  communication  with  their  friends.  Parties  visiting 
the  Lakes  can  secure  good  accommodations  and  conveyan- 
ces in  advance  by  telegraphing  either  of  the  above  houses. 


lPH 


f    Montreal, 

f      I'.  Q. 

3nto,  Ont. 

w  working  over 

Wire* 

•lent  year,  erect 

irly  all  for  new 

and  some  two 

the  same  time 

extended  their 
ws,  establishing 
^V.  F.  Martin's, 
il^,  and  Frank- 
season,  that  the 
tain,  VVilming. 
wires  now  in 
u  Sable  Chasm, 
nmunication  to 

'  with  all  parts 
8  tourists  to  be 
^arties  visitinsr 
md  conveyan- 
above  houses. 


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